THE CUCUMBER. 



323 



mode of doing this was formerly confined to 

 dung-beds and linings, by which heat could be 

 obtained with little expense for constructions 

 in the first instance; but various other methods 

 are now employed, rendering the maintenance 

 of a proper degree of heat, even in the middle 

 of winter, less precarious. 



Treatment. — To obtain a supply of Cucumbers 

 in winter, the best plan is to erect struc- 

 tures heated with hot water; but where the 

 necessary outlay for houses or pits cannot be 

 made, it is better not to attempt very early 

 forcing by means of dung-beds, indeed no 

 earlier than is consistent with the chance of 

 being successful with a moderate amount of 

 labour applied on good principles. Keeping 

 this in view, the seeds may be sown in the first 

 week in February. 



About the middle of January a quantity of 

 good stable-dung should be thrown into a conical 

 heap, mixing it thoroughly. There should, if 

 possible, be as much short moist dung as will 

 prevent the littery portion from becoming dry 

 in the course of fermentation. If the litter is 

 dry, and in too large a proportion, it may be 

 soaked with drainings from the stables, or 

 with water alone. When the heap is in a full 

 state of fermentation, it should be turned and 

 thoroughly mixed. In a few days the materials 

 will be again in a full state of fermentation, 

 when the heap should again be turned, and 

 when fermentation has for a third time become 

 general, the formation of the bed may be com- 

 menced. 



The situation of the bed should be sheltered, 

 but open to the south. The less obstruction 

 to the full light from this quarter the better. 

 The dimensions of the frame being known, an 

 area 6 inches larger should be marked out, so 

 that when the bed is built up and the frame 

 placed, it will be 6 inches from the outside of the 

 bed at both sides and ends. Some put a layer 

 of brushwood on the ground, others long dung. 

 Proceed next to form the bed, layer after layer, 

 the materials of each being well shaken and 

 mixed, and then beaten with the back of the 

 fork, so as to be uniformly compact. The 

 upper layer should consist of some of the 

 shortest materials. The bed should be 6 inches 

 lower at the front than at the back, and at the 

 latter the height may be from 3J to 4 feet. 

 When the bed is formed the frames should be 

 put on, and the lights kept close till the heat 

 exceeds 80°, when the sashes ought to be raised 

 to permit the escape of moisture. 



After the bed has been allowed to settle for 



a few days, some light soil, peat, or half-spent 

 tan should be spread regularly over the surface 

 to the depth of 5 or 6 inches. In a few days 

 more this covering will acquire the temperature 

 of the materials on which it is laid. It would 

 be well to try the heat of the bed by a ther- 

 mometer. The indications of this should be 

 frequently noted at regular intervals in order 

 to ascertain the rate at which the heat increases. 

 If at the first trial it is, for instance, about 70°, 

 and if it progress but slowly towards 75° or 

 80°, the seed-pots may be safely plunged. If 

 higher than 80°, and from the rate of increase 

 likely to be much higher, precautions must be 

 taken lest the young plants should be injured 



j by too much heat. 



The seeds should be proved before sowing 



I by putting them in water, when those only 



| which sink to the bottom ought to be sown. 



| It will be found most convenient in many cases 

 to sow singly in 3-inch pots. Let the seed be 

 pressed into the soil, and covered not more 

 than \ inch. 



The temperature of the bed being between 

 75° and 80°, the seed-pots may be plunged 

 about half-way in the soil; but should the heat 

 be above 80°, or likely to increase beyond that 

 point, it will be advisable to sink a small pot, 

 mouth upwards, placing on this the bottom of 

 the seed-pot. The latter will thus be cut off 

 from immediate contact with the hot materials 

 of the bed, and its temperature must be in- 

 fluenced by that of the air of the frame, and 

 this can be regulated to the required degree 

 by giving air. When, however, the pots can 

 be plunged in soil, tan, or other materials pos- 

 sessing the requisite degree of bottom-heat, it 

 is better to do so. When the plants appear 

 above the soil they should be within 6 inches 

 of the glass. 



When the plant has formed two joints it 

 must be stopped above the second, and again 

 when the shoots which push in consequence 

 of the first have grown so far that they can be 

 stopped above the third joint. Some growers 

 occasionally stop again above the fourth joint, 

 whilst others stop in the first instance above the 

 first joint, and the next time above the second. 

 Should the temperature of the bed be on the 

 decline, then linings must be applied in time, 

 using materials either for preventing the escape 

 of heat, or for generating a fresh supply. If 

 the temperature is found to decline but slightly, 

 it will probably be sufficient to apply a coating 

 of litter, straw, or some other slow-conducting 

 substance not in a state of fermentation, using 



