350 



THE GAEDENEE'S ASSISTANT. 



readiness for the purpose, and if the work has 

 been successfully performed the jelly should set 

 in a few minutes. To avoid loss, if it is seen 

 before the extract is poured out that it is not 

 likely to set properly, a little of the purest 

 gelatine may be added, and when the work is 

 carried out on a large scale this is often adopted 

 as a general precaution. With experience and 

 care that course is not however essential, and 

 the pure-fruit jelly is such a delicious substance 

 that it is not desirable to introduce any foreign 

 matter even though it be absolutely innocuous. 

 Still, a considerable quantity of imitation fruit 

 jellies is manufactured, and by means of arti- 

 ficial colouring and artificial flavours, a large 

 number of which are produced chemically, a 

 substance of very good appearance and pleasant 

 taste can be turned out, which may command a 

 sale in preference to the genuine extract of the 

 fruit by reason of its price. This is regrettable, 

 because there is an ample field for the extension 

 of fruit- jelly production, and a little experience 

 in the comparison of the true article with the 

 imitation will conclusively prove the superiority 

 of the former from a dietetic point of view. 



Marmalade. — This is practically a form of 

 jam-making, in which the whole fruit is cut 

 into thin slices and boiled with sugar until the 

 solid portions are thoroughly cooked, and suf- 

 ficient pulp is formed to render it agreeable. 

 Though employed so extensively in the conver- 

 sion of Oranges into a confection, this process 

 is not applicable to hardy fruits grown in this 

 climate, with the exception of the Quince. From 

 this a richly-flavoured and highly-coloured pre- 

 serve can be made at comparatively small cost 

 beyond the value of the fruit and the sugar em- 

 ployed. The supply is always limited, and the 

 demand is fairly good at paying prices for the 

 best quality. Where it is sought to provide a 

 general stock of preserves for sale it is advis- 

 able to have a few boilings of Seville Oranges 

 in addition; Lemons also are occasionally em- 

 ployed in the same way. The clearest and 

 brightest products appear to the best advantage 

 in glass jars, but some of the large firms use 

 1-lb. white glazed earthenware gallipots in enor- 

 mous numbers, the surface either plain or fluted, 

 and suitably labelled. 



Crystallizing and Glazing. — By far the most 

 costly and troublesome process connected with 

 fruit -preserving, is that concerned in the pro- 

 duction of crystallized or glazed fruits, but at 

 the same time there is no form which com- 

 mands such large prices. At certain periods 

 of the year, especially at Christmas, the demand 



is considerable, but large supplies are obtained 

 from the Continent or America, and to compete 

 with these the British manufacturers must be 

 prepared to produce a first-class article and 

 exercise the utmost taste in displaying the 

 goods. The neat little boxes of crystallized 

 fruits which reach our markets have the fruits 

 carefully packed in layers separated by white 

 paper, and, margined with delicately -stamped 

 paper-lace, they have quite an artistic appear- 

 ance. They serve as seasonable and attractive 

 presents, and the extra care and taste bestowed 

 upon them yield a large return in the higher 

 price realized. It is only in this way that 

 crystallizing can be made to pay, and that is 

 one reason perhaps why it is seldom attempted 

 here on a large scale. Still, so long as sugar is 



| not excessively dear, it is a method that should 

 be included in the operations of any producer, 

 particularly as there is practically no limit to 

 the time the fruit will keep, provided it is not 

 exposed to damp or excessive heat. In conse- 

 quence it is admirably adapted for exportation, 

 as many of the American firms have realized in 

 recent years, and it constitutes a growing por- 

 tion of their business. 



Almost any kind of fruit can be treated in 

 this way, but those most usually employed are 

 Green-gages, Apricots, Cherries, small Pears, and 

 occasionally small Apples. The first three gener- 

 ally have their stones removed, while the others 

 are cut into quarters, pared and cored. W T ith 

 all, the object is the same, namely, to substitute 

 sugar -syrup for the natural moisture of the 

 fruit, a process which can only be accomplished 

 in a very gradual manner. The samples must 

 be selected with great care also, as, if too ripe 

 or not sufficiently ripe, they will not absorb 

 the sugar freely enough to effect the desired 



! purpose. It is customary to place the prepared 

 fruits in clean willow baskets and dip them in 

 boiling water until the fruit is slightly softened 

 and a portion of the juice extracted. But 

 though this is a safe process with regard to 

 Apples, Pears, the firmer Plums, and Apricots, 

 yet with the more delicate Plums, such as Green- 

 gages, for instance, it requires to be done with 

 the greatest caution or the fruit will be spoiled 

 for the intended purpose, the skin being cracked 

 or the substance softened to an undue extent. 

 For some a few minutes will suffice, for others 

 perhaps ten minutes or a quarter of an hour 

 will be needed for the first soaking; but judg- 

 ment must be exercised in all cases, as absolute 

 rules cannot be laid down. 



A thick syrup of fine white sugar must be 



