August , 1907 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



21 



and where water will not flow into it. A 

 3-inch layer of coal ashes is placed in the 

 bottom for drainage and to prevent worms 

 from entering the pots. The pots are then 

 placed closely together on the ashes and 

 the interstices filled in with soil, the trench 

 being filled so as to rise a little above the 

 level and the surface molded over to shed 

 water. Here everything is as conducive 

 to root action and deterrent to top growth 

 as if the bulbs were planted out in the garden 

 in the regular manner. When the surface 

 of the ground is frozen, a layer three or four 

 inches deep of salt hay, straw, or leaves 

 is put over all. 



The hardy bulbs, potted and plunged as 

 advised, will be sufficiently rooted in twelve 

 weeks and some of the early sorts may be 

 ready a week or two sooner. Most poly- 

 anthus varieties root more quickly, Paper 

 White and Double Roman especially, these 

 usually being ready in five to six weeks. If 

 not lifted and taken into the house where there 

 is more warmth in the air, but left in the 

 plunge, all the bulbs will rest without making 

 much, if any, top growth, all winter. 



A continuous succession of bloom may be 

 maintained with perfect ease throughout 

 the winter by lifting a few pots at intervals 

 and holding the remainder in storage. The 

 time required for forcing into bloom after 

 the bulbs are brought into heat, varies from 

 three to five weeks according to the season 

 and variety. Forcing is more rapid as the 

 season advances. Before taking in the first 

 lot of pots for forcing, make a careful exam- 

 ination to see if the pots are filled with roots, 

 and do not take the pots indoors unless the 

 roots are well developed. The only way 

 to do this is to "knock out" one potful of 

 bulbs. If the bulb is well-rooted, the surface 

 of the ball will show a network of white 

 roots. If only two or three roots are visible 

 and the earth is inclined to fall apart, the 

 bulb is not well-rooted and is not ready for 

 forcing. To replace, slip the pot back over 

 the ball of earth, turn the whole right side up, 

 press the top slightly. 



When the daffodils are brought in from 

 outdoors they must not be placed at once in 

 warmth, but brought up to it progressively. 

 Too much heat is apt to expand the flower 

 space prematurely so that it cannot pass 

 the neck of the bulb ; or, if it does get through, 

 the developing bud will be strangled by its 

 unopened sheath ; in other words, it " blasts." 



First, place the potted bulbs in a temper- 

 ature of 45 to 50 , either in a pit, coldframe, 

 cold greenhouse, light cool garret, or cellar. 

 Here the young growth — probably blanched 

 from its covering while in the ground — will 

 gradually turn green and grow slowly, but 

 sturdily. At this stage, and thereafter until 

 through flowering, water freely; and once a 

 week give a weak manure water or soluble 

 commercial fertilizer dissolved in water. 



If the flower stems and buds keep pace with 

 the foliage in growth, the treatment is correct; 

 if the foliage is outstripping the flower stems, 

 it is proof of too much heat. When both 

 foliage and flower buds are in an advanced 

 stage of development, the plants may be 

 removed to their sunny flowering quarters 



in the window, conservatory, or greenhouse. 

 For the best health of the plants at this time, 

 the temperature must not exceed 6o° and 

 the atmosphere must be fairly moist. In a 

 higher temperature and dry air, the flowers 

 soon wither. 



Bulbs that have been forced into flower 

 in the winter are usually thrown away, espe- 

 cially the cheaper sorts; still if the variety 

 is choice, or prized, the plants may be saved. 

 This is accomplished by growing on in a 

 cooler temperature until the foliage has 

 ripened — about six weeks after blooming — 

 then turn the pots on their sides, withhold 

 water, and in another month remove the 

 bulbs from the soil, cutting off dead leaves 

 and roots, and store in a cool place until the 

 time to plant in the garden in July or 

 August. In a year or two such bulbs will 

 have recuperated sufficiently to be again 

 forced, but they cannot be forced two years 

 in succession. 



Practically all the types and varieties of 

 narcissus, daffodil, jonquil, etc., may be 

 successfully flowered in pots, pans or boxes 

 during the winter if the cultural" instructions 

 previously given are carefully followed: 

 but some kinds are much more responsive 

 than others. If any are to be ruled against, 

 it would be the late and extra late sorts. 

 These are quite difficult to force, yet with a 

 maximum time allowance for rooting and 

 by growing them cool — absolutely without 

 bottom heat — they may be brought into 

 flower in March or April, but not for winter. 



In addition to the varieties named in the 

 accompanying table there are a number of 



Daffodils stored in a cool, darK, damp cellar where 

 they maKe but little top growth but many roots. These 

 are in good condition to force 



small and miniature flowering kinds that 

 force most easily: Bulbocodium (all varie- 

 ties); capax plenus (Queen Anne's double 

 daffodil); cyclamineus (Cyclamen-flowered); 

 Johnstoni, Queen of Spain; jonquils; junci- 

 folius; Macleaii (Diomedes minor); triandrus 

 (Angel's tears) all varieties; and Trumpet 

 minimus. Plant these 12 to 18 bulbs, 

 half-an-inch apart, in a pot or pan of suitable 

 size; putting only one variety in the pot. 



Selection of Daffodils for Winter Flowering 



TYPE 



SEASON 



GOOD 



PRICE 

 PER 

 DOZ. 



BETTER 



PRICE 

 PER 

 DOZ. 



BEST 



PRICE 

 PER 

 DOZ. 



Large trumpet, all yellow; 

 entire flower yellow 



Extra early 



Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 



spurius major 



-35 

 -35 

 .60 

 -SO 





■SO 

 1 .00 

 1-50 

 2.00 







M. J. Berkeley 



Captain Nelson 



John Nelson 



Hon. Mrs. Jocelyn 











P. R. Barr 



Glory of Leiden 











Large trumpet bicolor; while 

 petals, yellow crown 



Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 





-5° 

 .60 

 -50 





I-OO 



1-50 



2.00 



Mrs. M. Crossfield. . . 

 J. B. M. Camm 

 Weardale Perfection.. 







Mrs. W. T. Ware 





Ada Brooks 











Large trumpet, all white; 

 creamy while or white 

 with sulphur crown 



Extra early 



Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 





1. 00 



-75 



1 .00 



2.00 





2.50 

 1. 00 



1-50 

 7-50 



Colleen Bawn 



4.00 





Mrs. Thompson 



Wm. Goldring 



Mrs. Camm 







Mme. de Graaff 





20.00 



Incomparabilis; yellow crown 

 i to J length of petals 



Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 





-50 

 •75 

 -75 



Queen Catherine 



-50 



1. 00 



2.00 







Stella superba 



Constellation 



Gloria Mundi 

















Leedsii; perianth, yellow; 



Early 

 Mid-season 

 Late 



Grand Duchess 



Mrs. Langtry 



.60 

 -3° 

 -30 



Madge Matthew 



1-50 

 1-50 

 1-50 



Princess Maud 



Mountain Maid 



Katherine Spurrell... 



15-00 





Duchess of Westminster 



2.00 



Barrii; yellow, with reddish 

 rimmed crown about \ 

 length 0] petal 



Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 





-3° 

 -3° 

 ■50 



Dr. Fell 



3.00 

 1-50 



1 .00 







Marian Barton 



Maurice Vilmorin 



Crown Prince 



Dorothy Wemyss. . . 



2.00 

 5.00 









Late 



Nelsoni major 



-5° 



Mrs. Backhouse 



-75 





9.00 









Early 



Mid-season 

 Late 



Mary 



•3° 

 -3° 

 -5° 





-50 



-50 



i-5° 



10.00 







sulphur, or yellow with 



FalstafT 



Ellen Bart . 







Little Dirk 



The Pet 



Rosalind 



15-00 









Engleheartii; same as Bur- 

 bidgei but with shallow- 

 er ruffled cup 



Late 





3.00 





Pole Star 



36-00 









Poeticus; white, shallow flat 



Mid-season 

 Late 



Precox 



ornatus 



•50 

 •25 











cup edged carmine 



King Edward VII 



1-50 



Glory 











Doubles 



Early 



Mid-season 



incomparabilis fl.-pl. 

 Orange Phoenix. 



-25 

 .40 



Double Van Sion 



Sulphur Phcenix 



-50 

 1. 00 



Primrose Phcenix 



2.00 



36.00 







Scilly White 



Lord Canning 



Double Roman .... 



-30 

 -75 

 -3° 





-35 

 1 .20 



-75 



White Perfection 



i-5° 

 1.50 







Grand Monarque 















