Stonework Without a Mason-By Henry b. Mitchell, m, 



CONVERTING A TROUBLESOME ENCUMBRANCE OF THE FARM AND GARDEN INTO SOMETHING USEFUL- 

 WORK OF BUILDING WALLS AND FOUNDATIONS THAT CAN BE DONE IN SLACK TIMES AND AT LITTLE COST 



SOONER or later there arises a need for 

 stonework or masonry in some form 

 around the home garden or on the farm, 

 and oftentimes when the need is pressing 

 the necessary workman cannot be had, or 

 perhaps the cash cannot be spared. 



Building foundations made from the stones that are 

 a nuisance on the fields. Cover with mortar or 

 cement to give a finish 



I have laid hundreds of cubic feet of rock 

 wall (made from the ordinary stone picked 

 from the fields of my farm), that is as neat, 

 smooth and substantial in its character as 

 though laid of dressed rock or pressed brick 

 by a skilled mason ; thereby saving hundreds 

 of dollars besides helping to rid land of a 

 nuisance. Previously to doing this work, 

 I had never laid a rock. The work is so 

 simplified by my method, that the most 

 unskilled laborer can lay rock almost equal 

 to an expert, and at less than one-fourth the 

 expense. 



For a straight plain wall, upon which to 

 rest the sill of a shed, or veranda, procure 

 some inch planks — a foot in width and 

 sixteen feet long is a convenient size. Stand 

 two rows of plank upon edge where the wall 

 is to be. Place these as far apart as the 

 required thickness of the wall. Drive stakes 

 at intervals of three or four feet, against the 

 outside of each plank to hold the plank in 

 place. Be sure they are set firmly in the 

 g.ound so that the pressure of the rocks will 

 not move them out of line, nailing the 

 plank thereto from the inside, being careful 

 that the top edges of both planks are level 

 from end to end and of even height. This 

 makes a long trough, open at top and ends, 

 with the ground for the bottom. Now 

 remove the earth from the bottom of this 

 trough till a firm foundation for the wall is 

 reached. 



The only special tools needed for the rock 

 work, are a small stone hammer, weighing 

 about two pounds, a mason's trowel and a 

 spirit level. For brick work the hammer can 

 be dispensed with. 



Select flat stones, with at least one straight 

 edge, if possible, but in case none of this sort 

 can be had, the uneven projections are to be 



knocked off with the hammer, so that an 

 approximately straight edge is formed, while 

 a few loads of any rough boulders, to be 

 broken up, for filling purposes, will not come 

 in amiss. 



The spaces between the stones are to be 

 filled with mortar. It is sometimes con- 

 venient to keep a supply of air-slacked lime 

 handy. Partially sink into the ground a 

 watertight barrel. Put three pecks of 

 good unslacked lime in the barrel, pour 

 over it five buckets of water, allow it to 

 stand till thoroughly slack, stirring occa- 

 rionally with a long-handled shovel. In 

 about half an hour it will be ready to 

 u ;. Thin . L o tiie consistency of cream by 

 adding more water. 



While the lime is slacking, construct the 

 mortar-bed. Stand three planks on edge, 

 forming the two sides and end of a box, 

 similar in size and shape to a one-horse 

 wagon body. Lay planks on the ground for 

 the bottom, fitting the edges closely together. 

 A few loads of clean, sharp sand having been 

 hauled, shovel into the mortar a good wheel- 

 barrow load, dig out a hole in the middle, 

 pour in two or three bucketsful of the cream 

 of lime, and with a hoe well mix in the sand, 

 till the mass is of proper consistency. 



Now you are ready to begin operations; 

 first select those rocks having straight edges 

 and lay a course dry over the entire bottom 

 of the trough, putting the straight edges 

 against the plank. Then with the old axe 

 or hammer, break some of the more ill— 

 shapen or larger pieces of rock into small 

 fragments, with which the depressions in the 

 middle may be filled, pounding all well down 

 with the hammer. The next course now 

 being in order, mortar (a little at a time) is 

 placed upon the first course, and a rock laid 

 upon it, so that it will come over the joint 

 formed by two rocks coming together in the 

 first course; remembering always to break 

 joints, as well as to keep the straight edges 

 of rock against the plank. Continue this, 



laying course upon course, filling up the 

 middle with broken stone, or gravel laid in 

 mortar, till the trough is filled, save for the 

 last course, which must be just thick enough 

 to come up level with the top of the plank. 

 This leveling up will require rocks thinner 

 than for the other courses, and by passing 



But few tools other than those usually found on 

 the farm are necessary. A spirit level and trowel you 

 must have, but an old axe will serve as a stone 

 hammer 



a straight edge over the top of the wall, 

 letting it touch the edges of both planks at 

 once, a true surface can be secured. 



After the wall has been leveled up to the 

 top of the plank, let it dry for about a week, 

 when the planks may be removed and any 

 holes upon the sides of the wall chinked up 

 with broken stone and mortar. 



If a wall of greater height than one plank 

 width is desired, higher stakes and more 

 courses of plank must be used, fitting all into 

 proper positions. Then carefully number 

 the planks and remove the top courses. 

 When the wall has been built nearly to the 

 top of the form, the second course of planks 

 is put back, and so on to the top. 



The same plan as applied to rock will 

 apply also to brick, but while being less 

 troublesome it is considerably more ex- 

 pensive. 



MaKe a form of evenly set planKs, strongly braced, and dig out the ground for a lirm foundation. Lay in a 



course of rocK and fill in with mortar 

 17 



