October, 1907 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



121 



With upple trees of this size, eighteen inches 

 apart, & big collection can be grown in a small area. 

 These are bearing 



will make a vigorous growth. As soon as 

 the newly started side shoots have seven or 

 eight leaves pinch out the ends of all except 

 the terminal one which is left to grow and 

 draw the sap. Pinch the leader out when 

 it has made a growth of ten inches. If it 

 makes another growth the same season stop 



that also when it gets ten inches long. All 

 this about pruning sounds as if it were a great 

 amount of work but really it is not. All the 

 necessary work can be done easily before 

 or after office hours. 



ROOT PRUNING INDUCES EARLY FRUITING 



When the trees have attained a height of six 

 or eight feet and are still growing vigorously 

 root pruning will be found helpful in bringing 

 the fruit. This is done by running a spade 

 down into the ground as deep as it can be 

 pushed eighteen inches from the trunk. 

 Have the spade sharp so that it will cut off 

 clean all the roots and describe a circle clear 

 around the tree. 



The rest of the work necessary will be 

 simply clean cultivation and if nothing but 

 fruit trees is grown a cover crop such as 

 vetch, sown in August, will help ripen up 

 the growth and protect the roots in winter. 

 As the trees must be kept in good 

 growing condition, an application of ma- 

 nure each spring, spaded in, will be very 

 beneficial. 



The trees must be sprayed regularly once 

 in ten days or two weeks with Bordeaux 

 mixture containing Paris green or other poison 

 all summer long for the various fungous 

 diseases and insects. Should the San Jose 

 scale be found in the trees spray with lime- 

 sulphur wash made according to directions 







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Imagine how easy it is to gather the crop of fruit 

 from this cherry tree. It could have been headed 

 a foot lower 



already published in The Garden Mag- 

 azine (December 1906, page 254) or use one 

 of the miscible oils, following the manufac- 

 turers, directions very closely. For applying 

 these spraying mixtures use one of the small 

 spray pumps having a tank holding about 

 five gallons. 



Mushrooms in Frost-Proof Buildings-By William McCollom, £& 



THEY CAN BE GROWN IN ANY BARN OR CELLAR WHERE A TEMPERATURE OF 45° TO 

 70° CAN BE MAINTAINED— START NOW IF YOU WANT A CROP BY THANKSGIVING 



[Editor's Note — This is not a "beginner's luck" story by an amateur whom you never hear of again, 

 family with mushrooms from Thanksgiving to the Fourth of July for years]. 



The author is a professional gardener who has supplied hi* 



THE BEST time for an amateur to start 

 mushroom culture is in October, 

 because it takes him about a month to get 

 the manure ready and make the bed. After 

 that it is a week before the bed is ready to 



If the temperature of the air is above 60° the 

 Stems of the mushrooms will become too long and 

 (he caps will expand too soon 



spawn, and then five or six weeks till the 

 mushrooms appear. This brings you to 

 Thanksgiving, from which time you should 

 be able to pick mushrooms until the end of 

 February — but not continuously from the 

 same bed. Therefore it is best to spawn 

 another bed in November. After that it is 

 usually impractical for the amateur to start 

 mushroom culture because he has no place 

 to compost the manure. Nor is it practical 

 to raise mushrooms in hot weather. 



Mushrooms can be grown by anyone who 

 has a cellar, a barn or any building where a 

 temperature of 45 to 70 can be maintained. 

 Success depends upon close attention to de- 

 tails, rather than special skill or knowledge. 



The bed can be made in a good cellar, or a 

 warm spot in the barn, but, of course, a 

 greenhouse offers a better opportunity for 

 cultivating this crop in winter, because it 

 gives you better control of temperature and 

 moisture. Moreover, the crop can often be 

 grown in space that would otherwise be 

 wasted, viz. under the benches, though the 

 piping sometimes interferes with this in small 

 greenhouses. In this case, a bench can be 

 raised about the pipes for the mushrooms 

 and still another above this for light-requir- 

 ing plants. If you make a bench of this 



kind reserve enough room to get the body 

 in so that the mushrooms can be picked — 

 say about two feet — for doors. Also when 

 mushroom beds are located directly over 

 heating pipes some precaution must be taken 

 to prevent the heat from getting into the 



Mushrooms may be grown in the cellar of the 

 dwelling with no inconvenience to the family pro- 

 vided the manure for the bed is prepared outside 



