Pea-like flowers in pendent chains are among the The tassels of the fringe tree in June are doubly 

 most effective of the tree flowers. (Locust) welcome when other trees have ceased flowering 



The most showy flowering tree is the horse chestnut. 

 having foot long pyramids of flowers 



Trees and Shrubs for Fall Planting— By Leonard Barron, ; 



ew 

 ork 



THE BEST KINDS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES AND THE REASONS WHY EACH ONE IS SELECTED— THEIR LIMITATIONS 

 —SUGGESTIONS FOR THE PROPER USE OF THOSE WITH BRIGHTLY COLORED FOLIAGE OR UNUSUAL FORM 



WITH -very few exceptions, all the de- 

 ciduous trees and shrubs may be 

 planted as successfully in the fall as they can 

 be in the spring. Practically there are great 

 advantages in fall planting, because first, 

 there are not many other outdoor duties 

 insisting upon attention, and second, be- 

 cause the season does not progress so rapidly. 

 Fall planting can be done with greater 

 deliberation, and with equal attention to 

 details should be more successful than spring 

 planting in the great majority of cases. 



The exceptions to be noted are these: 

 Trees with fleshy or spongy roots, such as the 

 magnolias and tulip tree, which do not seem 

 able to overcome their injuries; slow-growing, 

 hard-wooded trees which flower on the old 

 wood before the leaves appear, such as dog- 

 wood and redbud; trees with very thin bark, 

 such as the birches, which are unable to take 

 hold of the new ground and absorb moisture 

 with sufficient rapidity to supply the tops. 



Strictly speaking, the beech should be 

 included with the birches in this exception, 

 but early fall planting in this case is usually 

 successful provided that the trees are young 

 and are thoroughly well pruned at the time 

 of their removal. 



The season of fall planting extends from 

 the time of the maturity of the foliage until 

 the advent of frost. As it is obviously 

 impossible to remove any tree from the 

 ground without causing some injury to the 

 roots, it is equally obvious that precaution 

 should be taken to restore a balance between 

 the portions above and below ground. This 

 means the cutting back of the top. 



Spring planted trees start out at once to 

 make new roots because they are moved at 

 the beginning of their active growing season. 

 In the fall, however, advantage is taken of 

 the fact that the tree is then in a practically 

 dormant condition. It does not make any 

 new roots until the following spring unless 

 transplanting is done very early in the fall. 



Contrary to popular belief, it is not neces- 

 sary to wait until the leaves of a deciduous 

 tree have actually fallen; but, when they are 

 showing signs of maturity, it is perfectly safe 

 to transplant deciduous trees and shrubs. 



Surface mulching with straw litter or 

 stable manure after planting is advisable on 

 most soils, and should always be done on 

 those of a very light, sandy nature or well 

 under-drained. Much injury to trees and 

 shrubs is suffered in winter by the constant 

 evaporation of water from the exposed 

 branches when Nature does not supply the 

 deficiency in the form of snow or rain. Even 

 well established and vigorous trees will die 

 under such conditions and no better results 

 can be anticipated from newly transplanted 

 specimens. Mulching, therefore, is an in- 

 surance against possible unfavorable con- 

 ditions which cannot be controlled. 



Watering newly set trees and shrubs is not 

 as essential in fall planting as it is in the 

 springtime. At the same time, it is wisdom 

 to satisfy oneself that there is a supply of 

 moisture available, and therefore watering 

 may be done in order to be on the safe side. 

 Watering is not so necessary in late fall 

 planting as it is in early fall planting. 



If late shipments get frozen in transit, 



127 



they can usually be saved by very little care. 

 Place the unopened packages in a frost-proof 

 cellar or shed, anywhere in fact that is cool 

 but not freezing, and let them stay unopened 

 until they have had time to become com- 

 pletely thawed. Afterwards, unpack and, 

 if it is impracticable or impossible to do the 

 permanent planting at that time, the trees 

 may be heeled in in some trench for atten- 

 tion later. 



Frequently, stock is bought in the fall and 

 is held for spring planting, being heeled in 

 in a convenient place so as to be immediately 

 available as soon as the ground is workable. 

 Heeling in is merely temporary planting in a 

 trench, the tops being usually laid in a slop- 

 ing position so as to avoid breakage or injury 

 from the winds. A sheltered position and 

 dry soil must be chosen. The trees may be 

 laid thus in successive layers, with a mulch- 

 ing of soil over the roots and some light protec- 

 tion for the tops, and left in perfect security. 



Evergreens of all classes, coniferous and 

 broad-leaved, cannot as a rule be planted 

 in the fall, and therefore, together with such 

 other trees and shrubs as are excluded for 

 other reasons stated above, have not been 

 mentioned in the following tables in which 

 the object has been in each case to select 

 one plant of a type which would most 

 nearly fill the special requirements for each 

 purpose. Stone fruits, peach, plum, almond, 

 etc., experience has shown, are far better 

 planted in the spring than in the fall; there- 

 fore none of that family embracing so many 

 really beautiful flowering trees are now 

 recommended. 



