200 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



November, 1907 



with white, pink, light red, scarlet and deep 

 purple husks. Like all other species, it 

 has inconspicuous flowers. 



The climbing euonymus (E. radicans) is 

 the best substitute for English ivy, growing 

 where the latter will not succeed and, indeed, 

 it has a marked character of its own. For the 

 first few years, it clings closely to the brick 

 or stone wall and then sends out branches 

 that stand out at right angles to the wall and 

 bear large leaves. This vine grows up to the 

 third story at Pittsburg and has endured 

 twenty degrees below zero. Its berries are 

 not really worth speaking about, as they are 

 black and not one of the striking features of 

 the plant. It is probably the most promising 

 evergreen vine for that portion of America 

 north and east of St. Louis, Mo. The 

 accompanying photographs were taken at 

 Highland Park, Rochester, N. Y. 



For a review of the genus Euonymus see 

 The Garden Magazine for January 1907, 

 (volume 4,) page 285. 



Pennsylvania. W. E. Pendleton. 



Growing Bulbs in Fibre. 



A NY good forcing bulb can be grown 

 •**• successfully in cocoanut fibre. The 

 Paper White and Van Sion narcissus, the 

 Roman hyacinth and many kinds of tulips 

 will always do well. 



For table decoration I flower the bulbs 

 in jardinieres; common earth-stained flower- 

 pots do not look well on the dinner table. 

 But I would not recommend raising all the 

 winter bulbous flowers in cocoanut fibre, 

 it would be too expensive to buy the fibre 

 and jardinieres. 



Cocoanut fibre may be had in its natural 

 state as it is stripped from the cocoanut or it 

 may be had ground. In either case, put it 

 into a pail or other dish and thoroughly wet 

 it. If it has been ground, press the surplus 

 water out with the hands before putting it 

 about the bulbs in the jardiniere. If the 

 fibre comes in its natural state, it must be 

 torn apart before using. Use a jardiniere 

 of a convenient size which has been glazed 

 inside. In the bottom put enough charcoal 

 or broken pottery to form an inch of drainage, 

 cover it with the cocoanut fibre, place the 

 bulbs on the fibre and finish filling the jardini- 

 ere with fibre. See that the fibre is pressed , 

 gently around and between the bulbs. The 

 bulbs should not be covered more than two 

 inches deep so if the jardiniere be a deep one, 

 enough material must be placed at the bottom 

 to raise the bulbs up to the right position. 



After potting set the jardinieres away in a 

 cool place but it is not necessary that they 

 be kept in the dark, a subdued light is suffi- 

 cient. When the growth appears above the 

 fibre, bring the jardiniere into the light and 

 warmth for forcing. 



For the best results a comparatively low 

 temperature must be maintained, 65 in 

 the day time is high enough and it may be 

 allowed to drop to 45 or 50 at night. After 

 the flowers begin to open, the plants may be 

 brought into the living-room ; but if you do not 

 want the buds to blight, they must not be 

 kept in a warm room. 



Roman hyacinths and Paper White narcissus in 

 bloom November 26th. The hyacinths were planted 

 September 2nd; the narcissus October 22nd 



Never allow the fibre to become dry, 

 neither should there be a surplus of water in 

 the jardiniere. Turn the jardiniere on the 

 side for a minute or two each day after wat- 

 ering to allow the surplus water to run out. 



Illinois. Albert J. Perry. 



Fall Plow for Alfalfa 



PLOW land this fall which is to be sown 

 next spring; it will put the land in 

 much better shape. Plow to a depth of at 

 least* six inches, turning under at the same 

 time an application of manure which has been 

 put on at the rate of ten loads to an acre. 

 The furrows would better be turned up at a 

 good angle rather than land flat, and should 

 be left over winter without harrowing. In 

 early spring it can be determined whether 

 replowing will be necessary or not. If the 

 ground is not too hard packed, the disk 

 harrow will be sufficient but in most cases 

 replowing will pay. Broadcast one ton of 

 agricultural lime to the acre as early in spring 

 as possible, and thoroughly work in with the 

 disk harrow — do not plow it under. After 

 the lime is thoroughly mixed with the soil, 

 a second application of ten tons per acre 



The Roman hyacinths are very easy to force. 

 These were planted in fibre November 11th and were 

 in full flower December 17lh 



of well rotted stable manure should be spread 

 on the surface and harrowed in. The seed- 

 bed is then to be worked as fine as a garden 

 when it is ready for seeding, provided at 

 least two weeks elapse after the sowing of 

 the lime. 



Get the best seed you can buy and test it 

 for purity and germinating power. Seeding 

 should be done broadcast at the rate of 

 twenty pounds per acre. To secure even- 

 ness, it is well to sow ten pounds in one 

 direction and the other ten pounds across 

 it at right angles. Seed should be well 

 worked in with smoothing harrow then 

 lightly rolled. 



If clover has never been grown on this 

 land or does not thrive there, I would advise 

 you to inoculate the ground with "alfalfa 

 soil." This is the most successful way of 

 inoculating for alfalfa, and I have seen fine 

 results from the use of this soil. 



Do not be discouraged if it does not come 

 up to a thick stand. It may be thickened 

 by sowing more seed in August. 



Penn. F. E. B. 



A Delicious Chestnut Confection 



1V/T ARRONS glaces, which are so expensive 

 -!-▼ A when purchased at the shops, may be 

 successfully made at home, and the process, 

 though tedious in comparison to fudge- 

 making, is quite simple. 



Use freshly gathered chestnuts, and score 

 each nut on one side with a sharp knife. 

 Cover with boiling water, cook five minutes; 

 drain and dry them. Add a teaspoonful of 

 butter to each pint of nuts and shake over 

 the fire in a tin pan for five minutes. This 

 loosens both shell and inner skin which are 

 now removed together while the nuts are 

 hot. Cover the nuts with cold water, adding 

 to each pint of nuts a tablespoonful of lemon 

 juice. Let stand over night, when the nuts 

 will be firm and will not break in cooking. 

 In the morning drain and let dry, then cover 

 with a syrup made of a pint of sugar and a cup 

 of water for each pint of nuts. Cook without 

 boiling for two hours or until the nuts look 

 clear. Drain off the syrup, taking care not 

 to break the nuts, and reduce the syrup by 

 rapid boiling. If the nuts are to be put away 

 in syrup, five to eight minutes' boiling will 

 be enough. In this case, when the syrup 

 is cooked down, put back the nuts and add 

 the desired flavoring. An inch length of 

 vanilla bean to each quart of nuts; the juice 

 and thin yellow rind of a lemon; or half a 

 pint of maraschino; all are good. After the 

 flavoring is gently stirred in, pour nuts and 

 syrup into small glasses and seal when cold. 

 This makes an ideal flavor for ices, or the 

 nuts and a little of the syrup may be served 

 in frappe glasses with whipped cream. 



If the nuts are glaced, boil the syrup fifteen 

 minutes or until it is very brittle when 

 dropped in cold water. Have the nuts dry 

 and quickly dip each one into the syrup, 

 turn until entirely coated, then remove with 

 a fork to oiled paper. To keep the syrup 

 hot during the dipping let it stand in hot 

 water. 



New York. Sophie Kerr Underwood. 



