The outline of any but the very smallest pond should be in graceful, irregular, sweeping curves, with the grass edge brought down to the water line 



How to Make a Water-Lily Pond— By Henri Hus, 



St Louis, 

 Missouri 



THE VITAL PRINCIPLES AND EXACT FACTS YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SAVE TROUBLESOME AND EXPEN- 

 SIVE LEAKS. THE ECONOMY AND SIMPLICITY OF PUDDLED CLAY IF YOU ONLY KNOW HOW TO FIX IT 



PONDS built entirely of brickwork or 

 concrete offer certain serious objections. 

 In the first place, their banks cannot be 

 planted ; moreover, where the.winters are very 

 cold, projecting brick or concrete walls 

 must be protected, and it is only where the 

 ponds form part of a formal plan, that the 

 gray masonry edges, projecting half a foot 

 or more above the ground, are appropriate. 

 As a general, rule, a combination of concrete 

 and puddling is to be preferred. 



For a brick and cement pond, excavate 

 to a depth of two and one-half feet. The 

 sides are given a circular slope, which forms 

 an angle of about forty-five degrees with the 

 perpendicular. After the floor has been 

 thoroughly leveled, bricks are laid and 

 cemented into place. Then the walls are 

 built in the same way. They must reach to 

 within one foot from the bottom. When 

 finished, the pond will be about two feet three 

 inches deep. The whole is finally covered with 

 a half-inch finishing coat of cement. 



The slope above the brick wall must now 

 be covered with puddled clay, thoroughly 

 pounded into place, allowing the clay gener- 

 ously to overlap the cement. It is not neces- 

 sary for the puddled clay to follow closely 

 the outlines of the pond; for this combina- 

 tion of brickwork and clay permits a little 

 planting of the edges of the pond and as some 

 plants demand more space than others, a few 

 even must be allowed to grow out at will if 



they are to look acceptable. This is true for 

 the majority of plants used in the water 

 garden, one great charm of which lies in the 

 unforced contour lines. 



A low fence, constructed of perforated 

 pipes and connected with the water system, 

 may surround the pond. This will very 

 effectually flush the pond, but is not necessary, 

 since a single faucet (through which the water 

 can be turned on from time to time) is ample 

 to remove any scum that may accumulate 

 on the surface of the pond. Of course an 

 overflow, connected with a drain or silt-pit, 

 must be provided. This should be placed in 

 position before the laying of the foundation 

 is begun. A narrow drain pipe will be 

 sufficient for all requirements. 



The cost of construction of a 10 x 24 ft. 

 pond of the above character is: 



Excavating, I man, I day $2.00 



Masons, 2 men, 2 days 24.00 



Brick and cement 20.00 



Clay, piping, etc 2.00 



Total. $48.00 



Ponds entirely made of concrete are 

 adapted to formal gardens only. Their 

 construction on a large scale had best be left 

 to contractors who make a specialty of this 

 sort of work. . At the present time, granitoid 

 would most probably be the material selected, 

 reinforced, in case of large ponds, with 

 steel rods. The cost of construction of a 

 circular pond of this nature and about twenty 

 285 



feet in diameter, would be $200. This figure 

 includes all labor, but makes no provision 

 for a heating arrangement which, according 

 to its nature, would cost from $150 to $300. 



Should one wish to do all the work one- 

 self, or perhaps engage unskilled labor, the 

 following style of pond can advantageously 

 be adopted. Having decided upon the size 

 and location, mark the outline and proceed 

 with the excavation; an area of about two 

 hundred and forty square feet to a depth of 

 three and one-half feet can be accomplished 

 by one man in one day. Give the sides a 

 slope of sixty degrees. 



After the earth has been removed and the 

 bottom leveled, bring in sufficient cinders to 

 make a layer six inches thick, covering with 

 a layer of sifted cinders about one inch thick. 

 Cinders are also banked against the sides to 

 the height of eighteen inches. These cinders 

 must be rammed and rolled till the surface 

 is as smooth as possible On top of this 

 put a layer of granitoid from three to four 

 inches thick. It may be prepared by mixing 

 one part of Portland cement and three parts 

 of finely crushed granite. This must be 

 finished off as smoothly as possible. The 

 sides are to be formed with the aid of a wood- 

 en mold. Afterwards cover the whole 

 with a one-half inch finishing coat composed 

 of equal parts of Portland cement and gran- 

 itoid siftings. The sides, where not covered 

 by granitoid, are puddled with clay. 



