FEBRUARY, 1916 
Heh = 1G AR eDeteN = MeAIGeA ZI NE 
35 
Onion “prickers” or seedlings ready for setting out, both before and after trimming 
bushel more than the big growers get. More- 
over, the insects and diseases troubling the 
crop are such that the small, isolated patch is 
comparatively free from them, with the excep- 
tion of the universal ‘onion maggot.” 
TRANSPLANTING FOR BIG ROOTS 
The greatest yield and the best prices can be 
had by growing the large, mild so-called 
“Spanish” onions. These may be grown in your 
own back yard to just as gigantic a size and 
of as good a flavor as in either Texas or Ber- 
muda. Planted in the garden in the ordinary 
way, they will not get much larger than the 
average varieties. To reach the maximum size, 
they require a very much longer season ; where- 
fore, they must be started early and trans- 
lanted or set out in the garden as you would 
ettuce or early beets. 
This transplanting may seem like a great 
deal of extra work, but, in reality, is little 
more than that involved in the tedious process 
of “first weeding” of onions grown in the ordi- 
nary way. In fact, I would much rather set 
out a row of onion seedlings than weed a row 
of the same length in which the weeds were 
thick. Transplanting practically does away 
with the first weeding, because the trans- 
planted onions are so far ahead of the weeds, 
and evenly spaced, that they can practically be 
taken care of with the small onion hoe or 
wheelhoe with very little hand work. The 
crop grown under this method will be ready 
earlier, is more easily prepared for sale, and. 
will command better prices than that grown in 
the ordinary way. 
THE VARIETIES ARE IMPORTANT 
Select varieties of the right type. For all- 
round purposes, I know of none better than 
Gigantic Gibraltar; although for the first at- 
tempt, I should use about one half Prizetaker. 
These do not grow quite as large as Gibraltar 
but are more easy to mature and are better 
keepers. Ailsa Craig is a popular exhibition 
surt, being of a pale straw color and of a very 
handsome appearance. For exhibition pur- 
poses (which is one good way of advertising 
your wares), plant also a packet each of large 
Red Wethersfield and Silver King. 
For garden culture from seed I recommend 
Prizetaker or some good strain of Southport 
Yellow Globe, or of Danvers, which mature 
earlier, for use in the more northern states. 
AN EARLY START 
Four fifths of the success of the transplant- 
ing method will depend upon the growing of 
strong, well hardened seedlings. For this, an 
early start, regular daily attention, and a suit- 
able place in which to grow them are neces- 
sary, a coldframe will do, but better and ear- 
lier results can be had with a hotbed or small 
greenhouse. ‘The onion grows slowly during 
its early stage, and plants started in February 
or March will be none too large to set out in 
April or May, according to the season. 
There are two methods of growing them; 
they may be sown quite thickly, and then trans- 
planted (as soon as they are large enough), 
into individual small pots or paper bands, or 
into flats, an inch and a half apart each way. 
Handling them thus individually means more 
work, but the average size of the resulting 
bulbs will be considerably increased. Try at 
least a hundred or so this way, to compare 
results, as a basis for your next season’s opera- 
tions. The other method is to sow the seed 
very thinly and, after they are up well, thin 
out, leaving four or five to the inch. Those 
pulled out may be pricked off into blank spaces 
in the rows. This will give about three hun- 
dred plants to an ordinary cracker-box “flat.” 
Transplanting will give a hundred to a hun- 
dred and fifty plants: and small pots or paper 
bands about half that number in the same 
space. In planting out, the seedlings are set 
about three inches apart—four hundred plants 
to one hundred feet of row. The rows are 
twelve to fifteen inches apart. If they are to 
be transplanted before being set in the open, 
start two or three weeks earlier than otherwise. 
SOWING THE SEEDS 
Sow the seeds in clean, light soil, with no 
manure or fertilizer. When they are to be left 
in the original flats until transplanted, the 
' flats should be three to four inches deep. Put 
a layer of very rich compost in the bottom, and 
on the top of this another layer of rich, light 
soil, each layer being about one and one-half 
inches deep. Over this, on the surface, put one- 
half inch of clean sand in which to sow the 
seeds, covering the seed about a quarter of an 
inch. The advantage of having sand on the 
surface is that there is then much less danger 
of “damping off.” 
For transplanting, use a mixture of good 
compost and good, clean soil. A temperature 
of fifty to sixty at night will start the seed 
promptly, and great care must be taken not to 
let the flats dry out while the seed is germinat- 
ing. It is best to keep the flats covered with a 
piece of glass or a piece of newspaper, which 
does not fit tight, until the little seedlings 
begin to push above the soil. 
THE SECOND STAGE 
After the seedlings are safely up and thinned 
out or transplanted, they need no attention 
beyond plenty of water and plenty of fresh air 
until it is time to harden off. Then move them 
from greenhouse or hotbed and leave uncoy- 
ered at first during the day, then both day and 
night for a week or two before planting out- 
doors; even if a light frost occur, it will not 
hurt. Where conditions are favorable and a 
strong growth has been made, they will require 
cutting back once or twice, and again at trans- 
planting time, to keep them from getting top- 
heavy: and tangled into each other. At moving 
time, take off a third or so of the top. Be care- 
ful not to let the plants “dry out” while they 
are hardening off in the frames. A thorough 
watering once a day, except in rainy weather, 
will be required. 
THE PROFITS LIE IN THE BED 
With no crop is the preparation of an ex- 
tremely rich and finely prepared seed bed more 
important than with onions. If manure is 
used directly before planting, have it very old 
and fine. eep fertilizers, ashes and so forth 
very near the surface, applying them after the 
ground has been plowed and roughly worked 
over, but before putting on the ‘finishing 
touches.” Work the bed over by hand, with a 
Here is a lot of prize winning onions grown on light soil where modern irrigation methods were in use 
