152 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
APRIL, 1916 
side of the garden. 
on your plan. 
Cover small seeds, like lettuce, radish, or onions, 144 to % inch deep; 
medium size, such as beets, spinach, parsnips, % to 1 inch; and large 
seeds, such as beans, corn, and pumpkins, 1 to 2 inches. In heavy soil, 
wet weather, or early in the season, cover more lightly than for normal 
conditions; in very light soil, or hot, dry weather, more deeply. Make 
extra early plantings of beets and peas extra thick, to allow for losses. 
Read last month’s GARDEN Macazine for other details of sowing veg- 
etables, quantities, length of row, etc., ete. 
A common error is loose covering of the seeds in the drill. This is 
poor planting, especially in dry weather. Firm the soil down. lightly 
over the seed. Fortunately, the seed-drill does this automatically; but 
peas, beans, corn, and melons, often come up poorly because of neglect 
in this respect. Where seeds are sown by hand, cover immediately with 
fresh moist soil, and press down with even treading along the row. 
Tag every row carefully, as soon as planted, showing the variety, 
date, firm bought from, and, if your planting table shows it, the date on 
which the first gathering for the table should be ready. The last item is 
very important in checking up your garden results, as a basis for next 
year’s plans; and half the fun of gardening is to do it more efficiently 
each succeeding season. 
Nea to seed planting the most important part of the gardener’s work 
is skill in the technique of transplanting. How often do you hear 
concerning some gardener, that if he “only touches a thing. it is bound 
If you do this you can begin planting at any point 
to live”? There is no “king’s touch” in the garden game. People who 
. “love” plants are more successful with them, merely be- 
Seteine Out cause such persons take greater care in handling them. 
nts 
The first essential in transplanting is to have good plants. 
They should be well hardened off (see March Reminder, covering cold- 
frames) ; this applies to plants in flats and in pots even more than to 
those growing in frames. In buying plants, select stocky, compact, dark 
colored ones in preference to very large ones. 
REPARE the soil as carefully as though you intended to sow seeds. 
Mark out the rows, and if fertilizer is to be used, mix it thoroughly 
with the soil before beginning transplanting. Then prepare the plants 
carefully. Unless they are very small, cut back the largest leaves about 
one half with an old pair of scissors. With a small trowel or an old knife, 
cut them out of the frame or flat in which they are growing, keeping 
as much soil as possible with each. (If in flats, cut them out as you 
use them in the garden.) If they are in pots, knock them out carefully 
and pack into flat for convenience in handling. Paper pots, which pro- 
duce the best plants, are not removed before en: Water thoroughly 
the day before planting, so that the soil will be in the best condition for 
handling; but for several days before planting, it is well to keep the 
plants “on the dry side,” as they will then reéstablish themselves more 
quickly when set out. 
HEN transplanting, make sure of three things: (1) that the plants 
“¥V do not wilt before being set; (2) that they are put in firmly; (3) 
and that the roots do not come in direct contact with any commercial 
fertilizer or fresh manure (bone, guano, tankage, and cottonseed meal 
: 2 are comparatively safe). Do the work preferably on a 
Points in | rainy day, or late afternoon, and protect from wind 
Transplanting oy sun while planting. In setting the plants, put them 
considerably deeper than they were growing before; press fresh soil 
firmly about the root with the hands, and unless the plants are very 
small, press soil still more firmly over the roots with the balls of the 
feet. A plant well set will pull apart before pulling from the grownd. 
In dry weather, pour a pint of water or more in the bottom of each hole 
before planting. Plants in hills, set out late, such as tomatoes, eggplants, 
pole beans, and melons, may be kept from wilting after planting by coy- 
ering each plant with a newspaper “tent,” held in place at the bottom 
with soil or stones. 
In planting roots, such as asparagus, rhubarb, perennials, ete., avoid 
direct contact with manures or fertilizers. Any bruised or broken roots 
should be cut back to firm flesh. Spread the others out in a natural 
position, giving plenty of room, and cover with fine, fresh soil. If water 
is necessary—though it seldom is at this time of the year—use it before 
planting, as above. 
FTER planting, use your pruning knife unsparingly. In the case of 
fruit trees, cut back from one to two thirds, or even more. Peaches 
and Japanese plums, unless very large, should have all side branches 
cut close, and the remaining ‘whip” cut back to about two feet at most. 
Pp , If large, cut back to leave four or five lower branches 
es ne and cut these back to a few buds. Apples, pears, and 
After Planting other plums, should have the main branches cut back 
about half, to form the frame, and others removed entirely. Goose- 
berries and currants should be given similar treatment. Cut cane-fruits 
down to mere stubs. If you want some fruit this season, plant a few 
extra ones, and let them go as they are. Be severe with newly planted 
Roses; cut back to only a few buds on each branch. For further informa- 
tion about Roses, see page 160. 
EARLY THIS MONTH 
Planting First: First on the order of this month’s business comes the 
planting of the earliest vegetables. Be ready to take advantage of the 
first suitable day, because the first warm spell is frequently followed by 
more bad weather. The gardener who is ready makes a great gain here. 
Rhubarb: One of the first things to need attention as the frost leaves; 
often neglected; dig about thoroughly; apply nitrate of soda, and well 
rotted manure; former produces wonderfully quick results. Boxes or 
barrels over some clumps will help to force it, and make it extra tender. 
Asparagus: Work in the winter dressing as early as possible; apply 
high-grade fertilizer and nitrate of soda. As soon as big enough cut 
every other day, using a regular asparagus knife to avoid injury. A few 
stalks may be left as “traps” for the beetles. 
_Sea Kale: If properly prepared in the fall, this will need little atten- 
tion until after the blanched growths are cut. Then remove blanching 
material, and hoe and cultivate for good growth during summer. 
Plant Supports: Last call! Cut pea brush and bean poles before the 
leaves start; should have been done long ago. If you haven’t any handy, 
make use of next rainy day to prepare supports from lath and furring 
strips. 
P” ANTING of shrubs and fruit trees differs in several ways from the 
_ things above. In the first place, the roots, are usually almost or 
quite without soil; but if they have been well handled they should he 
moist, so that some of the very small roots are still ready to become 
Planting Shrub: active again as soon as conditions are favorable. Go 
dF & tT S over the roots carefully and cut back any injured 
and *ruit ireeS ones. Shelter carefully until the moment of actual 
planting. Prepare the holes in advance, and make them of generous 
size; dynamite may be used for sub-blasting is subsoil is stiff. Im the 
case of the shrubbery border, prepare the whole space instead of indi- 
vidual holes—a little more work, but infinitely better results! Mix with 
the soil both fine and coarse bone, say two thirds of the latter. Plant 
a very little deeper than the shrub or tree was growing before. Pack 
the soil around the roots with the fingers, and then press it down with 
the foot, several times, during the filling of the hole—don’t wait until 
the soil is all in, and then merely compact it on the surface; that is just 
the condition that isn’t wanted. Leave the surface two or three inches 
of soil, light and mellow. 
S THE lawn looking poorly? Treatment will depend on condition. If 
it’s just sort of ragged and frazzled, rake it to within an inch of its 
miserable life with a steel rake; never mind if some of the hair comes 
out by the roots—it’s pecnay, dead stuff. It there is much old dead 
Lookt stuff on it burn it before beginning operations. Then give 
he L 0 it a good dressing of humus, to which has been added sheep 
the Lawn manure and bone dust; 5 to 10 pounds of bone dust, and 10 
to 25 of sheep (or commercial dry yard manure) to 100 pounds of 
humus. Rake this in thoroughly. ‘Then water, or wait for a good rain. 
After that, sow on a good lawn seed mixture (buy the best you can find). 
Roll lightly. Do not cut until several inches high, and then cut and 
water regularly, and use a heavier roller. 
If your lawn is really in a bad way, so that there is some doubt of its 
recovery, use still more drastic methods. Fork or spade up the poor 
spots, adding rotted manure; fill in any hollows with clean fresh soil; 
beat down humps with the back of a spade or tamper; where sod is 
thick, or dirt hard, use a perforating tamper (a piece of two-inch plank 
with four-inch spikes through it, and a handle affixed, will do). Then 
treat as above, using more seed on the raw spots. A really bad lawn can 
often be “brought back” in this way cheaper than making a new one. 
In preparing the new lawn, remember you are making something to 
last for years, and don’t be tempted to skimp on the work. Perfect 
drainage, and four to six inches at least of good top soil, are the main 
requirements. A good live humus is especially valuable here, because it 
will introduce the needed bacteria which the soil, even though good, may 
lack. Roll with heavy roller and then prepare a new surface for sowing, 
rolling lightly afterward. 
Hedges: As soon as new growth starts, repair the winter’s damage. 
Gaps may usually be filled by bending down and pegging new branches 
from either side. Winter-killed wood should be cut out at once. If 
necessary to buy new plants do it at once; nothing looks shabbier than 
a shabby hedge. 
Y THE first of the month, at latest, the frames should be full of the 
first batch of plants for the garden—cabbage, lettuce, beets, cauli- 
flower, etc. Don’t coddle these things a bit after the first two or three 
days from the greenhouse. Leave the sash off altogether for several 
nights before they are wanted for planting outside. 
In Frames A few degrees of frost won’t hurt them, ‘but don’t 
and Greenhouse take a chance on a hard freeze, or they may be 
checked badly, even if they survive. : , 
Start tender vegetables: Don’t neglect to take precautions now to 
assure yourself the earliest cucumbers, melons, sweet corn, etc., in your 
town. Paper pots or dirt-bands, mellow rich old compost, a few flats, 
and a hotbed or a warm spot in the greenhouse, make up the answer. Be 
careful to mark or tag each pot, unless you have a flatful of a single kind. 
ON’T be in too great a hurry to remove the mulch from the straw- 
D berry bed. Keep the blossoms back as long as poe especially 
on the early flowering kinds. When you do take the mulch off, just 
push it to one side, so the plants can shove up through it, and the ‘ber- 
ries will be kept off the ground and clean. : 
And Now the The new Strawberry bed: If you are intending to 
Berry Patch set out a new bed this spring, the earlier you can get 
at it the better. There are two things to avoid: planting on sod ground, 
and using chemical fertilizers “in the hill.’ Remember that “ever- 
bearing” varieties, such as “Progressive” and “Superb,” set out now, will 
give a good crop this fall. 
BEFORE THE END OF THE MONTH 
\XHE ADVANCE line of the insect army may put in an appearance 
this month. The cut-worm is one of the first; poisoned bran mash 
is the best “cure”; paper collars will keep him off individual plants. For 
green aphis on early peas or cabbage, spray with kerosene emulsion. | 
In the orchard, keep a sharp watch on conditions, and go ahead with 
your spraying, according to schedule. Attend to early pruning; remove 
any winter-killed or broken wood. All early flowering things, such 
as Forsythia, are to be pruned just after blooming. Perennials may be 
divided and replanted; trees and shrubs moved; grafting done (see last 
month’s number), etc. 
