THE GA REDE N “MAGA ZI ys 
APRIL, 1916 
COST DATA FOR 
ESTIMATING 
Deciduous trees, from 5 to 8 ft. (usual nursery size of the species) ...$0.75 to $1.00 each 
Deciduous trees, 10 ft. or more (not “specimen” ) to 
Deciduous trees, rare kinds, from 3 to 6 ft. (of good size)........... y to 
Kivergreen trees, with ball, 2 to 3 ft. (smallest planting size) 
2.50 each 
5.00 each 
to 1.00 each 
Alf 
Evergreen trees, with ball, 4 ft. or more (not “specimen”) at least... 1.00 per ft. in height 
vergreen shrubs, with ball, 18 in. (small plants) .50 or more each 
Evergreen shrubs, with ball, 2 ft. or more (large plants)............ 2.00 to 
5.00 each 
Common deciduous shrubs and vines, 2 to 3 ft. (average small size of 
species 
Common deciduous shrubs and vines, 4 ft. (larger size) 
35 each 
each 
Azaleas, Hybrid Roses, and other special shrubs (usual small size, or 
2-year ) 
Azaleas, Hybrid Roses, and other special shrubs (2 ft. or 3-year) GO) 
Perennial herbs, common varieties, field grown A 
Herbs, less common sorts and named varieties, field grown (2-year). .20 to 
Peonies, rare species, and novelties (2-year size) 0 to 
plants wherever the space offers. There 
is no virtue in cramming a place with 
all the plants of which you are fond, 
making it a thicket or a museum of 
freak plants. If you have no sense of 
restraint as to what to put in you are 
not a garden builder, but a nurseryman. 
One tree in its proper place is worth a 
dozen equally good ones crowded into 
the same space. 
In the middle course between the two 
extremes is safety; this involves far 
more than a consideration of the plants 
themselves. The test is “fitness” of the 
planting to its surroundings. This 
varies with the centuries, the topog- 
raphy and climate, the national life, and 
individual taste. From these arise the 
garden types—formal, natural, Italian, 
Japanese, rock, marsh, “wild,” etce.— 
considered from the point of view of the 
plants used. Each arrangement has its 
uses. 
With the esthetic sense of ‘‘fitness” is 
inseparably connected the aspect of 
physical “luxuriance.” We insist that 
growing things look healthy as well as 
well-placed. Even a luxuriant field of 
corn gives a sense of esthetic satisfac- 
tion that a most expensive formal gar- 
den may not have. This luxuriance 
comes from the choice of material used, 
the care with which it is planted, and 
then the upkeep of the work. 
Let us choose our materials. While 
the plan for arrangement is being made, 
decide on the tree and flower types to 
be used. Think first in types rather 
than in individual plants. If a tree, is 
it to be tall or low-branched, for shade 
or flowers, with heavy or light foliage, 
etc.? Merely because I like a certain tree 
it does not get on my planting plans, 
and often I use trees that personally I 
don’t care for. If a shrub, is it to be 
evergreen or not, for flower, fruit, or 
form, for screen, 
specimen or ground 
cover? And how 
are the herbs to 
serve in the land- 
scape, by their 
flowers, foliage, or 
roots? Specimen 
lists are here given. 
Having an image 
of the type forms 
needed, lists from 
which to choose, and 
data as to the re- 
quirements of the 
various species, then 
consider the soil in 
each 
1.00 each 
15 each 
.25 each 
1.00 each 
its relation to the plant growth, the 
climate and exposure, the effect to be 
produced, the purse of the client, the 
care to be given in the future, etc. 
Soil conditions come first usually. 
Select the plants that will endure the 
conditions. 
The future care should greatly modify 
the planting—will there be an intelli- 
gent gardener in charge or will Nature 
eare for it? The best thought-out plant- 
ing can “run to seed” and be “seedy” if 
left to itself. Use no soft Dogwoods or 
the Rose family (except Spiraea), unless 
some one will spray for scale. Deutzia 
must have the dead twigs cut out évery 
year, etc. Yet there are plenty of plants 
that will “thrive under neglect.” 
Having then considered our materials, 
and the practical and esthetic limits 
placed upon their use, we make a list of 
the plants that would fit these condi- 
tions. We are now ready to think of 
arrangement in detail. For every plant- 
ing should have a reason for its being, 
and not “growed” like Topsy. Every 
plant should speak for itself, and not 
require our arguments in defense of its 
location. Are we planning for imme- 
diate or future effect? In most cases 
we strive.to take care of both, and the 
problem is made more complex. 
Every planting is different in its final 
arrangements, but the several theories 
of plant arrangement we can touch 
upon. 
The severely simple, “‘some- 
body lives there,’ a simple 
grouping of simple types of 
Planting gives the finishing touches to garden making, and in proportion to its being well or poorly done 
lies much of the ultimate success of all our work 
plants for simple places, mere touches 
of vegetation to afford relief. The 
suburban lot may be so treated. 
Special effects, of form, foliage, for- 
mality, season, color, etc. Here the 
plants are grouped to give certain defi- 
nite effects to carry out the design; 
much of the usual planting is mostly of 
this order. 
Botanic relationship, a study in the 
relation of form, foliage, etc., of various 
plants related botanically. The eye nat- 
urally sees the differences and like- 
nesses of a group of the various Vibur- 
nums, Spireas, or other genus. This 
idea of plant relation may be introduced 
in very restricted areas, but a large 
estate will allow its greater develop- 
ment. It has nothing to do with a 
botanic garden. 
Ecological, or plant affinity groupings. 
A placing together of plants that are 
found together in Nature. This is most 
useful in “wild” planting. A group of 
Sumac, Sweet Fern, Asters and Golden- 
rod has an artistic merit to our eye be- 
cause we have seen them growing to- 
gether on many New England hillsides. 
Such combinations are endless. 
Well-developed nursery stock with 
straight stems and good root systems is 
always the cheapest and the best. No 
plant was ever too well grown. For im- 
mediate finished effect near the house 
the very best of plants are none too 
good. Put the money allowance into 
quality rather than in quantity, for a 
few well-developed plants are of far 
more value than a lot of skinny ones. 
While estimating the quantities comes 
the question of distance apart. For im- 
mediate effect the plants should nearly 
touch when in leaf. This means that 
the usual nursery grown shrubs will be 
placed 3 to 4 feet apart, and that is 
altogether too closely for the good of 
the plants five years hence. We sup- 
pose that the gardener will year by year 
take out the crowding plants in such a 
way that the mass effect will be little 
changed. But suppose that nobody 
thinks of relieving their congested con- 
dition; then mass plantings for imme- 
diate effect is bad business. Given time 
one Tartarian 
Honeysuckle will 
occupy the space 
formerly taken by 
ten, and be more 
healthy than they 
could ever be. Sup- 
pose that we plant 
for the future com- 
fort of the plants, 
how far apart? 
Many factors must 
be considered be- 
sides the present 
size—the soil in re- 
lation to the growth, 
the effect desired, 
the foliage about 
the planting, the 
size of the group, 
the care to be given, 
and the vigor and 
ultimate normal size 
of the species. The 
final spread of many 
woody plants will 
be much as the 
