262 
TH HY GAR DEN PiMeAV Gy AGZ Neh 
poe more the bright, warm sun- 
light pours in on the plants and 
vines the more plentiful and beau- 
tiful the bloom, the more fragrant 
the fruit. So during the short days 
of winter it is very essential that 
the plants in the Greenhouse get 
every bit of the sunlight from morn- 
ing until late afternoon. 
GREENHOUSES 
Have a special type of construction, 
which permits of great strength without 
the need of heavy shadow casting sup- 
ports. This gives the plants all the sun- 
light all day long. Note the amount of 
light and shadow in the upper picture. 
In addition to its great strength the 
King type of construction lends itself to 
the graceful sweeping lines which harmon- 
ize with any style of architecture—That 
is why a practical, productive King house 
is in itself a thing of beauty. 
We can build you any kind of a green- 
house you desire; when you send for bul- 
letin 47 why not describe that house you 
have always wanted, that ideal greenhouse 
of your dreams. Our experts will gladly 
and without any obligation work your ideas 
into a practical sketch. Since the days of 
fairy tales a King has been able: to make 
dreams come true. 
KING CONSTRUCTION CO. 
302 King Road, North Tonawanda, N.Y. 
All the Sunlight All Day Houses 
Ror. can be plant- 
ed in the green- 
house this month, and 
a great deal depends 
on how this work is 
done.- The benches 
should be whitewashed 
with hot lime, and 
drainage of some sort, 
of course, is advisable. 
Soil is the most im- 
portant factor—a 
stiff, clayey soil, to which has been added about 
one fourth well rotted cow manure is prefer- 
able. If this cannot be obtained, make a com- 
post of chopped sod and crushed bone, one part 
of the sod to twelve of bone. Fill the benches 
flush with this, without any packing. When 
Pee, be sure that the soil is thoroughly 
rmed; the heavier the soil the less. firming is 
necessary. 
Old Rose plants that are intended for carry- 
ing over another season should now be rested 
up by reducing the water and giving more 
ventilation. Bring this around gradually. Do 
not cut the flowers; in fact, there should not 
be any, if the buds are removed as quickly as 
they form. 
Do not neglect the Carnation plants in the 
field and greenhouse bench. Pinch them regu- 
larly, keep well cultivated and spray fre- 
quently with bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal 
copper solution. 
ardenias for next winter flower should be 
growing fast. If there is any indication of 
buds forming, the soil is not rich enough to 
keep up a luxuriant growth of foliage. What 
we want now is a sturdy plant that will pro- 
duce flowers next winter. Keep the buds 
pinched off, therefore, and apply a rich mulch 
or liquid food. A little lime water is also ad- 
visable, as it prevents the soil from souring. 
If it has not already been done, sow the seed 
of a number of forcing plants for next winter, 
such as Antirrhinum, Salpiglossis, Campanula, 
Heliotrope, Scabiosa, etc. These should be car- 
ried over the summer in 4-inch pots in a 
frame or sheltered place, except the Campa- 
nula, which must be kept growing and repotted 
as often as necessary. 
While you will not get any exhibition blooms 
from May propagation, you will get good sized 
blooms with moderate stems if you strike a 
batch of Chrysanthemum cuttings now. These 
flowers will be found to keep better than the 
extra large blooms. 
Start standard forms of the various flower- 
ing plants. The Geranium, Heliotrope and 
Fuchsia are popular for indoor decoration, as 
well as for garden use. Place a stake in the 
centre of the pot and keep the main shoot 
tied to it. Remove all the others. Keep this 
shoot pinched back, but allow it to spread when 
it reaches the required height. Cyclamen and 
Primula in the frames should not be neglected; 
shade them with a slat trellis and spray fre- 
uently. Also keep potted on as required. 
Make each shift into the next size larger pot, 
and do not transplant from a 4-inch pot into a 
7-inch one to save time! 
Schizanthus, Clarkia, Celosia, Petunia, Arc- 
totis, Lavatera, Godetia, in fact practically all 
annuals, make excellent pot plants and can be 
raised during summer in the greenhouse. Sow 
the seeds now and if you handle the plants 
roperly you will have an abundance of bloom 
in late fall and early winter. Use the continuous 
flowering type similar to those named above, 
and not croppers, such as the Aster. 
Plant Bouvardia outdoors now in a rich, 
well prepared soil. This blooms in late fall 
and early winter and is a very easy plant to 
handle. It is subject to green fly; spray every 
two weeks as a preventive. Pot the plants in 
early fall and bring them into the greenhouse. 
Because the Amaryllis has ceased flowering 
do not neglect it. This, its growing season, is 
what determines the oa of next season’s 
flowers. Feed frequently with liquid manure. 
Summer-flowering bulbous plants, such as 
Achimenes, Gloxinias, etc., should be fed freel 
with liquid manure during the flowering period, 
as it is not advisable to have this kind of plant 
in a very large pot. i } 
Keep most of the Orchids well supplied with 
moisture; this is their growing season. ‘Those 
that are resting should be removed to another 
compartment where they can be kept moder- 
If you wish information about greenhouse heating apply to the Readers’ Service 
Rush Jobs Under Glass 
May, 1916 
ately dry. Proper 
shading is very impor- 
tant now; a few hours 
j of strong sunshine on 
i young shoots will be 
1 ruinous to them. 
Parsley for next 
winter should be sown 
in the frames at once. 
Mark off the beds in 
12-inch squares and 
sow several seeds at 
the intersection of each line. Later thin out to 
one -plant. 
Although they can be sown outdoors, I al- 
ways consider it better to ‘sow the seeds of the 
various late vegetables in a frame. The youn 
pies are then transplanted when the. Shand 
e; if sown outdoors they often spoil in the 
seedbed. This refers to late cabbage, cauli- 
flower, celery, kale, ete. Sow the seeds in drills 
about four inches apart and when the plants 
are large enough to handle, dibble them in a 
prepared bed about four inches apart each 
way. Shade them for a few days and spray 
tke tops frequently. 
Plants in late graperies and peach houses 
should be thinned just as soon as the fruit is 
large enough—after the “stoning” process. If 
thinned before that time some of the fruit is 
liable to fall off. 
More failures with fruits under glass can 
be attributed to lack of regular pinching back 
than to all other causes combined. This is 
work that must be done regularly, not at any 
convenient time, and it must be persistent. 
Never let the laterals get so large that you 
have to use a knife in order to remove them; 
the tip should be small enough to be removed 
with the thumb and first finger. 
Make arrangements now for next winter’s 
supply of proper soil. Get good top soil; if it 
has a good turf, all the better. Stack it up, 
using about one quarter manure and about one~ 
twelfth lime. Bone can be added also, or can 
be added when the soil is used inside. Turn 
this compost several times during the summer 
so as to thoroughly incorporate the manure 
and other elements with the soil. 
New York. W. C. McCoitom. 
Sow Bug Eradicators 
HE sow bugs (also called woodlice and pill 
bugs) are sometimes a serious pest in 
greenhouses. I recently came across a badly in- 
fested Carnation house in which the sow bugs 
were actually eating the roots, injuring the 
plants. The grower, who had exhausted all the 
common remedies, such as pouring hot water 
in the cracks where they hid during the day, 
was at his wits’ end to rid his house of the pest. 
Commonly these sow bugs confine their depre- 
dations to decaying vegetable matter, molds and 
similar material present in damp soils, but they 
sometimes—as in this case—attack the living 
plants even going so far as to attack the foli- 
age. They also attack mushrooms. 
In small greenhouses the application of boil- 
ing water—filline the cracks where the sow 
bugs hide during the day—has been successfully 
used, but it is not practicable in large estab- 
lishments. Another remedy which has been 
used with good results is to cover the wet sur- 
face of newly sliced potatoes with paris green, 
placing them where the sow bugs seem to be. 
In large establishments the application of hy- 
droeyanic acid gas is an effective remedy, but on 
account of its highly poisonous qualities it is 
dangerous to use. Carnations can stand as 
much as one tenth of a grain of 98 per cent. 
cyanide of potassium per cubic foot for fifteen 
minutes without material injury to the plants. 
It penetrates the cracks and crevices quickly 
ane will kill plant lice, but not thrips, nor will . 
red spiders be eradicated at this strength. 
When greenhouses are empty they can be 
fumigated with sulphur—two pounds to 1,000 
cubic feet. I always made a practice of doing 
this in my greenhouse and was never seriously 
troubled with insects. A thorough fumigation 
seemed to kill off everything but the white fly, 
and I think that after I had fumigated the 
white fly must have gained entrance to the 
house through the ventilators. But these meth- 
ods of fumigation will hold the sow bug im 
check so that no material damage will be done. 
Pennsylvania. HAROLD CLARKE. 
