294 
THE “GARDE N) SM ANG AVZ Ne 
JUNE, 1916 
large enough for the average family for 
it gives a place for table and chairs and 
plenty of open space for circulation. 
By all means let us have a good foun- 
dation. Whether the porch is supported 
by piers or walls let them go down at 
least three and one-half feet below the 
grade. Get them below the frost line. 
Alternate thawing and freezing under- 
neath a footing will soon throw the 
superstructure “out of plumb” and pos- 
sibly cause serious damage. The cheap- 
est supports are wood posts which 
should be of locust or chestnut. But 
don’t use wood unless necessity compels 
it. Use the same material as for the 
house foundations. These may be brick, 
stone or concrete, and are put in place 
following the same specifications as for 
masonry used in any other way. Stone 
and brick are set in cement mortar 
which may be white or colored and the 
joints raked or flush as the case may be. 
If it is impossible to have the floor close 
to the ground wood framing and floor- 
ing will be found the cheapest and 
easiest. The timbers are as stout as 
those used in the house. Sill pieces be- 
ing halved at the corners and well 
bedded in cement mortar if there is a 
foundation wall. The rough framing 
is of good material, say spruce. Be sure 
that the floor beams when put in place 
are parallel with the side of the house, 
for when the floor boards are laid over 
they will have their joints run away 
from or at right angles to the house. So 
there is always a pitch provided (this 
is one eighth inch to the foot), the 
boards laid in this fashion conduct the 
rain water easily to the outside edge of 
the porch and do not hold it as they 
would if the joints were in the other di- 
rection. The boards are always joined 
together with white lead 
which keeps the water 
from working through. 
The best flooring is 
white pine and this is 
the right wood for all 
finished stuff such as 
the supports, railings 
and cornices. Two-by- 
six inch roof rafters 
will be strong enough 
for all roofs except wide 
ones of heavy tile where 
two-by-eight rafters are 
safer. 
Flat roofs are not as 
permanent as pitched 
roofs, but it may be nec- 
essary to have one 
where there is not 
enough room to pitch. 
Frequently one desires 
to have a flat roof in 
order to walk out from 
a second story room. 
There are two coverings for a flat roof 
which are in general use. One is metal 
(tin or copper), and the other is can- 
vas. Both are laid over boarding, the 
metal having a heavy paper to deaden 
the sound. If the roof is to be walked 
upon, and is tin or copper, there must 
be a wood grating for protection but 
this grating should be removable in 
order to clean or repair. The tin and 
copper are laid with flat seams nailed 
and soldered and the tin is painted on 
the underside before laying and on the 
upper side when perfectly clean and all 
rosin washed off. Painters are very apt 
to neglect this precaution of having a 
perfectly clean surface. Copper needs 
no paint. 
Canvas is stretched over a coat of 
thick fresh paint (white lead and lin- 
Viewed from the garden, the porch becomes the natural 
harmonizing factor between it and the house itself 
seed oil) and is then painted several 
coats on the upper side. Any first-class 
carpenter understands this work. For 
pitched roofs shingles fill the bill in 
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred. 
Shingles are laid over shingle lath and 
should not have more than five inches to 
the weather; four and one half is better. 
Most shingles nowadays are of cedar. 
Slate are more permanent as are tile 
and the discussion of these materials 
The best effect is attained when the porch construction follows closely that of the house to which 
it is attached. Stone columns for the stone house, etc. 
was treated with care in the April num- 
ber. Where we have a masonry con- 
struction for the porch and the latter is 
an after addition to the house, some sort 
of a bond is necessary between the new 
walls and the old. With concrete a 
rough surface may be picked on the old 
wall for the new one to join to. With a 
solid masonry wall or piers, it is safer 
to have footings of concrete to support 
them. These are about eight inches 
thick and extend six inches on all sides. 
By doing this they distribute the load 
on the soil. Stucco is laid over brick or 
tile or may be on frame. In this case 
the sheathing boards are covered with 
building paper and metal lath (galvan- 
ized) which is nailed to wood strips 
tacked over the paper. Arches are 
easily formed when stucco is employed 
in this fashion. 
For a permanent floor that combines 
beauty with utility, there is nothing like 
brick or tile. But for these it is abso- 
lutely necessary to have a firm under 
support. The space is filled in and well 
tamped, using stone if possible, and 
over this is put a layer of cinders. Next 
comes four inches of concrete and if 
bricks are used a layer of sand. The 
bricks are set in any pattern desired. 
Flat or on edge, herringbone or plain, 
with borders or without. When the 
bricks are in place they are grouted 
with cement mortar and cleaned up. 
Tiles are set in cement mortar directly 
over the concrete. Irregular shaped 
flagstones in white cement mortar with 
varying joints give a touch of the gar- 
den to the porch and are quaintly out of 
the ordinary. 
With tile and brick the charm lies in 
the wide range of color, texture and pat- 
tern. We have all the colors imagin- 
able, with textures that are rough, 
smooth or variegated to suit the degree 
of formality desired. 
A good flat roof for a porch of brick 
or stone is one of tile. First reinforced 
concrete beams are put in place between 
which terra cotta tile are placed. The 
method being to put the tile in the 
proper position supported by boards at 
the edges. The boards hold the tile and 
concrete until set; the latter making a 
bond with the former. 
Over this is spread con- 
crete which is water- 
proofed thoroughly and 
the tile come last, well 
grouted with cement. 
Only copper flashing 
should be used against 
the walls. 
The gutters, leaders 
and flashing are the 
same as for the house. 
Copper is far and away 
the best but is fright- 
fully expensive, more so 
now than ever. Tin, 
well painted, for flash- 
ing, and galvanized iron 
for the leaders and gut- 
ters saves a great deal 
in expense. Galvanized 
painted. All places 
where the porch roof 
joins the house should 
be well flashed whether the roof is flat 
or pitched. 
Try to have the porch in keeping with 
the garden. If there are brick paths in 
the garden, have a brick floor for this 
will delightfully connect up the two. If 
there are trellises, use lattice intelli- 
gently on the porch. While lattice is 
beginning to be overdone, its use, if well 
studied, is a valuable adjunct. Use it 
sparingly, but well placed. 
iron must be frequently | 
