sal Garden Club of America (un- 
official), you should be willing, for 
the sake of yourself and your fellow 
members, to agree that you will not be a June 
“slacker.” Every year, about the middle of 
this month, that fine April enthusiasm com- 
mences to wear off. Then the real gardeners 
begin to show up in the ranks. 
[: YOU are a member of the Univer- 
taken as a standard. 
T T pays to spray! That statement has been 
oft repeated but fully one half of all who 
garden have failed to grasp the full meaning 
of those four short words: The ehanees are naan en 
: ’ that you lost something in your garden last year tha 
BhigsMonets might have been saved by Seavine! See if ce year 
We oY you can prevent it. 
Most spraying is done for one of three definite purposes; first, to kill 
chewing insects by poisoning the food that goes into their stomachs; 
second, to kill sucking insects by coating them over and smothering 
them or by destroying them by contact; third, the prevention and the 
restriction of plant diseases by coating the surface of leaves and stems 
so oe the disease germs or spores cannot find a foothold to start or to 
spread. 
No matter for which of these purposes spraying is used, there are two 
factors absolutely essential to success. First, that the right spray or 
mixture be used for the particular insect or disease to be fought; second, 
that the spraying will be done so thoroughly that every particle of the 
surface will be covered or every insect reached with the spray. 
There is nothing mysterious or complicated about this spraying busi- 
ness. A good deal of the confusion which seems to exist is doubtless due 
to the fact that there are so many commercial preparations on the 
market, and the solution of this trouble is much the same as in learning 
to select vegetables: Buy not by 
name, but by type. For instance: 
1. For insects, bugs or worms which 
chew and actually consume portions 
of the leaves or fruits of the plant, 
use an internal poison such as arsen- 
ate of lead paris green, or hellebore, 
or preparations thereof. 
2. For sucking insects, use a soap 
or an oil spray which will smother 
them, or a nicotine or kerosene spray 
which will be fatal by contact. There 
are plenty such combinations on the 
market under various proprietary 
names. 
3. For diseases such as fungus or 
blight, keep all the new growth cov- 
ered by spraying with bordeaux mix- 
ture or ammoniacal copper carbonate 
solution. 
It is usually more convenient for 
the small grower to get these things 
in commercial preparations, ready for 
immediate use when diluted. But re- 
member that it is the substance and 
not the trade name which will do the 
killing. In buying a tobacco extract 
preparation, for instance, the impor- 
tant thing is the percentage of nico- 
tine, and not the number of colors 
used in printing the label. 
Combination sprays. Wherever pos- 
sible, save yourself work by using a 
combination spray and kill two bugs with one splash. For example, you 
can add arsenate of lead or paris green to your bordeaux mixture; or 
nicotine extract to your arsenate of lead spray, if you happen to have 
both eating and sucking insects to combat. There are a number of good, 
all-round commercial preparations on the market, which save even the 
trouble of mixing two sprays together. 
Dry spraying. Within the last few years, great development has been 
made in the manufacture of spray materials where they are in powder 
instead of paste form. These can be used in wet spraying or, in many 
cases, can be dusted on in the dry state. In the latter case, be sure to 
follow directions specifically, as dust forms should be sifted on when the 
plants are dry, rather than when wet with dew. For wet spraying, the 
dry form of the material is preferable to the paste in several ways. It 
keeps longer and better, is of a uniform strength, will go into a solution 
more quickly and will not settle so rapidly. In purchasing powder in- 
secticides or fungicides, however, be certain to get the kinds that have 
been thoroughly tested out. 
Have a definite spraying schedule. For fruit trees, Roses and a num- 
ber of garden crops such as potatoes and beans, you should have a regu- 
lar spraying schedule to be followed closely, whether there is any 
particular sign of the special insect or disease you are after having 
appeared or not. If you wait to see, it may be too late. Study the whole 
spraying proposition carefully, get what data you can and make up a 
little table with dates to follow for your own crop. This will save a 
good deal of time and bother and will give infinitely better results than 
to wait until the trouble starts. 
etc. 
trope, Musa, Salvia, etc. 
perennials, etc. (from pots). 
Oak,” Verbena. 
planted. 
EARLY THIS MONTH 
LANTS from pots. The tender things which it may have been unsafe 
to set out until this time should be got into the ground as quickly as 
possible when all danger from a late frost is past. If there is a delay of 
a week or ten days here the stuff will never recover—particularly if 
allowed to become either pot-bound or “drawn out” before transplanting. 
With the great number of things which it is now possible to get from 
THE MON ARS 
REMINDER 
JUNE, 1916 
For reckoning dates, the latitude of New York City is generally 
In applying the directions to other 
localities, allow six days’ difference for every 
hundred miles of latitude 
Plant this Month 
{ Vegetables, from sced: beans, lima beans, corn, cucum- 
bers, melons, martynia, okra, pumpkin, squash. 
Succession crops: beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, 
kohlrabi, lettuce, peas, radish, turnips. 
Plants: In Northern sections, from frames; lima beans, corn, 
cucumbers, eggplants, melons, peppers, squash, tomatoes. 
Toward end of month, from seed bed; Brussels sprouts, cab- 
bage, cauliflower, celery, kale, leek, late tomatoes. 
q Flowers, from seed: tender annuals, such as Balsam, Begon- 
jas, Castor-oil Bean, Dolichos, Impatiens, Portulaca, Salvia, 
From pots: tender bedding plants, such as Begonias, Helio- 
For late gardens; Roses, hardy 
q For fall and winter, iy seed border, to transplant later 
to pots; Antirrhinum, Begonia, Carnations (“pinks,”) Geran- 
ium, Heliotrope, Lobelia, Mimosa, Petunia, Stocks, “Silk 
« Bulbs and tubers, Callas, Caladiums, Gladiolus (suc- 
cession plantings); Cannas, Dahlias, etc., where not already 
the nurseries as “pot grown” plants, one 
may set out quite a complete garden 
even in June and get eats this year. 
big yield from,a small plot of ground, the 
1 system of growing berries should be used. 
For the home conden one limited area it means 
« : ittle if any more work than 
peas Bites ith the repular method. The 
o 2 CEES, great secret of success is in 
getting good strong plants to set out in July 
or early August. Select runners from the best 
roducing plants and peg them down with 
clothes pins, to hold them in position, and under each place a three or a 
three and a half inch pot. Unless the soil in the bed is rich and fine, 
fill these pens with a mixture of half humus and half garden soil. Sink 
them level to the brim. A clothes pin will show where the pot is when 
you want to take it up. If irrigation is available, water thoroughly 
after placing the pots. As soon as the plants are well rooted they should 
be cut from the parent plant and all further runners should be pinched 
off as soon as they form. This will give you a good strong young 
“crown” with a compact, ready-to-grow ball of roots, within a few weeks. 
Suggestion for planting will be given next month. 
TT" GET the biggest and best berries or a 
hi 
ON’T be afraid of Water-lilies! Few people realize that Water-lilies 
are not limited to the pretentious “estate.” There are certain con- 
ditions which they require. But these are simple, and once arranged 
they may be grown as easily and as successfully as many of the common 
garden flowers; in fact, they are much more free from insect 
vale troubles. The essential conditions are: First, water, but not 
aes running, and not too cold; second, full sunshine; third, a suit- 
able soil. The water may be contained in anything from a half-barrel 
sunk level with the lawn, to a lake. 
A small artificial pond may be made 
very cheaply. Two feet is sufficient 
depth, about half this being used for 
the soil. The best soil is made from 
swamp or pond “muck” with rotted 
manure — preferably cow manure— 
added. Or use heavy soil in place of 
the muck. Some fish should be pro- 
vided, as they ee to keep the water 
pure. The tender Lilies should not be 
planted until after danger from frost, 
and the hardy ones may be planted 
at the same time. The cost of plants 
is not great; most varieties may be 
had for from twenty cents to a dol- 
lar, and thé hardy sorts will last for 
many years. If you want something 
really beautiful, and_a little “differ- 
ent,” try a few Water-lilies this 
summer. 
HE chief reason why those “first” 
iD peas or beans or ears of sweet 
corn or beets taste so scrumptiously 
good, so eee bots than ule 
> ater “pickings,” is tha’ 
pee Em you ait Badiet the 
VS temptation to take 
them when they are in the flush of 
youth. Plant such things in small 
quantities and plant often. See ac- 
companying table for suggestions. In 
lanting now, if the soil is quite dry, and drier weather seems impend- 
ing, don’t be afraid to plant deep, two or three times as deep as you 
made the early spring plantings. A good plan with large seeds like beans 
and peas is to open a deep furrow, down to moist soil, and then plant 
about the usual depth at the bottom of that. If the soil is well firmed 
they will be up in a few days, and then the furrow may be gradually 
filled in. To get a stand of lettuce or other small seeds in dry weather 
open up a small furrow, drill in humus or humus and soil mixed half 
and half, water thoroughly, and as soon as sufficiently dry, plant and 
firm. Firming the soil about the seeds, with the sole of the foot or the 
back of the hoe, is of great importance in dry weather. 
BEFORE THE END OF THE MONTH 
AKE out an insurance policy on your garden. Are you going to do 
it again this year—spend your good money for seeds, for plants, 
and for fertilizers, to say nothing about the hours of joyous backache, 
and then have to sit while day after day goes by without rain, and 
things gradually stop growing and become tough and tasteless? Get busy 
now and put in an irrigation system for your garden. (See the article 
on page 297.) 
(Ue every little gooseberry have a mulching of its own. Next to irri- 
gation, or still more effectively as a supplement to irrigation, provide 
a summer mulch before the end of this month for those flowers and veg: 
etables which require a particularly large amount of soil moisture to do 
Mulch th well. inter mulching saved when it was removed this 
ue ©. spring, fine dry manure, grass clippings, leafmold, or 
GooseberrieS jcat—any of these will serve the purpose and conserve 
moisture. Oultivate thoroughly and then spread the mulching thickly 
enough to shade the ground thoroughly and over a large enough area to- 
cover most of the root system of the plant. Some of the flowers and 
vegetables which most appreciate mulching are Roses, Sweet Peas, and 
other flowers in open beds where the soil is not covered by the foliage; 
gooseberries, currants, eggplant, cauliflower, and summer peas. 
300 
