a oe 
— 
“1 eke month of July brings important work for 
the greenhouse owner, because now begins 
the routine for the supply of flowers in fall and 
winter. . 
Chrysanthemums. The plants should be grow- 
ing very rapidly, and the feeding must be carefully 
attended to—indeed this month is a critical time 
with the plants. To overfeed means failure, and 
lack of the proper amount of nourishment means 
flowers of a mediocre quality. There is no rule to 
apply; one must be governed by the condition of 
each individual plant. Certain varieties will stand 
more food than others. As a sort of guide for the 
beginner, a healthy, vigorous plant in an 8-inch 
pot can be fed several times a week—in fact, it 
requires it; but, of course, it should have been gradu- 
ally worked up to this amount. If you believe 
that the plants can assimilate them, use a variet 
of feeding materials to supply the elements required, 
such as diluted cow manure, sheep manure, guano 
and special foods prepared for this purpose, and 
continue feeding until the buds show color, after 
which gradually stop it. 
See that the Chrysanthemum house is well 
ventilated at all times. Spray the plants frequently, 
but do not have the foliage wet at night as it is liable 
to cause mildew. Besure to kill all the small yellow 
butterflies you may see in the house, as they deposit 
their eggs on the undersides of the leaves and the 
young larvae, when hatched, will destroy the leaves. 
Keep the side shoots and suckers removed as rapidly 
as they form, and a little fire heat—just enough to 
dry out the house—during continued damp, muggy 
weather is beneficial. 
Carnations. Late in the month these can be 
planted in the benches from outdoors. It is de- 
sirable to select a dark day for this work, and keep 
the greenhouse shaded for a few days until the 
plants have started root action. The soil for Car- 
nations is one of the most important factors toward 
success next winter; one from the compost heap, 
if properly prepared, is ideal. If this is not avail- 
able, a well chopped, turfy top soil to which has 
been added about one third well rotted manure will 
answer quite well. In either 
case a little bone meal worked 
in the soil will stimulate root 
action. A thin layer of rough, 
not rotted, manure should be 
placed in the bottom of the 
bench to prevent the soil from 
clogging up the openings. 
Never plant in a wet, soggy 
soil. Neither should it be too 
dry. If, after being squeezed 
in the hand, it holds its shape, 
yet crumbles upon the slight- 
est pressure, it is in the proper 
condition. When lifting the 
plants, keep as much soil as 
possible about the roots, and 
firm the soil well about the 
plants after planting. Then 
they can be watered. Do not 
soak the entire bench; simply 
give each plant a sufficient 
quantity to settle the soil 
around the roots. Spray the 
plants frequently on bright 
days; keep a sharp lookout for 
rust and at the first appear- 
ance pick off and burn all in- 
fected leaves. Keep the soil 
stirred in the benches to keep 
down weed growth, and to 
During July the start is made for next winter’s Carnations. 
-Work of the Moment 
New 
By W. C. McCoxtom, New. 
prevent it from souring. It is also advisable to pot 
up a few plants of each variety so that you will 
have some material on hand to fill any vacant 
spaces that may occur. 
Calla Lilies should be started now. Plant the 
bulbs in the pots in which they are to remain for the 
winter, or plant them in the benches. Pot culture 
is preferable for private growers as it permits fhe 
plants to be shifted around, which is sometimes 
necessary when a large variety of plants are grown. 
The Calla delights in an abundance of water, yet 
it will suffer very quickly if not provided with ~ 
proper drainage. So put in the bottom of the pot a 
few broken crocks, with a light covering of moss. 
Water the bulbs very sparingly until they have 
developed a good root system; after that water 
freely. They will stand immense quantities of 
liquid manure, particularly diluted cow manure. 
Roses. Watch carefully for mildew. This must 
be kept out of the rose house. The plants should be 
grown just as cool as weather conditions will permit, 
and sprayed frequently on bright days. A little 
fire heat is helpful when several damp, foggy days 
follow each other. A good preventive against 
mildew is to keep the heating pipes painted with a 
paste made from flowers of sulphur and water. 
At the first indication of mildew on the foliage, dust 
the plants with the sulphur or use the sulphur in a 
vaporizer. If this does not check the disease, spray 
with sulphide of potassium solution (3 ounces to 10 
gallons water). 
Keep the soil in the benches stirred, but not 
deeply; the hand is the best tool to use. Simply 
prevent moss from forming and pick up and burn 
all leaves that drop. Make this a regular routine 
operation; and keep the plants properly tied up to 
their supports so that they do not flop over when 
they are sprayed, as it is necessary to use consider- 
able force when spraying in order to keep in check 
the red spider. 
Cineraria and Calceolaria can be sown this 
month for effective pot plants, but if you do not have 
a cool house, don’t attempt to grow either of these 
plants. From 40 to 45 degrees at night is the best 
The plants are lifted from outdoors and 
planted on the benches under glass 
341 
temperature. Sow seed in pans, using a light soil 
(of one third sifted soil, one third clean, sharp sand, 
and one third leafmold). Drainage in the seedpan 
is imperative, as the young plants “damp off” with 
the slightest provocation. When large enough to 
handle, pot up the seedlings in thumb pots, and keep 
repotting as often as necessary. Be careful in doing 
this, because over-potting is certain failure. When 
the roots have formed a solid mass on the outside of 
the ball, so that the plant will stand intact after the 
removal of the pot, shift to larger pots. An ideal 
place for both Cinerarias and Calceolarias is an out- 
side frame with a slat trellis for shade. Both plants 
are very susceptible to green fly; spray frequently 
with tobacco water. If this doesn’t keep the aphis 
in check, fumigate. The flies must be destroyed. 
Primula alacoides. Now is the time for sowing 
a big batch of seed. This is one of the best of all 
pot plants, and also very acceptable as a cut flower. 
It should be handled just like the Cineraria. 
Lily bulbs from cold storage planted now will 
follow the Chrysanthemum in flower in late fall, 
when there is more or less of a shortage of flowers. 
When received, pot up the bulbs in 4- or 5-inch 
pots, place them in a frame and cover with ashes or 
some similar substance about two inches deep. 
When the shoots show above this covering, lift the 
pots and bring indoors, grow along alowly and do 
not force them. When well rotted, transfer to 6- 
or 7-inch pots, in which they should be allowed 
to finish. Very little feeding is required if the 
final planting was made in a rich soil. 
Plant Outdoors. Keep well sprayed the plants 
that are plunged or planted out of doors (Bouvardia, 
Oleander, Genista, etc.) It is during the hot 
weather of summer that such plants are usually 
received; if they are allowed to suffer for lack of 
water, the result is a premature ripening of the wood 
from which they never recover. 
In Frames. Keep your eye on the potted plants 
in the frames (Primula, Cyclamen, etc.). If there 
are any badly twisted or contorted leaves on the 
Cyclamen, it is a sure sign that the mite is at work 
and the leaves should be immediately removed and 
burned. If the condition still 
continues destroy the plant. 
A One-Compartment House 
A SMALL  one-compart- 
ment greenhouse, prop- 
erly managed, should supply 
a fair-sized family with plants 
and flowers during the winter. 
Taking carnations as the main 
crop, there may also be sown 
Antitrhinum, Mignonette, 
Stocks, Narcissus, Tulips, Hy- 
acinths, Freesias, and many 
others; in one corner, perhaps 
a few heads of cauliflower and 
lettuce or rhubarb and aspar- 
agus. 
In spring the house can be 
used to get an early start for 
the outdoor garden. All sorts 
of annuals, such as Asters, 
Heliotrope, Celosia, Pansy, 
etc., can be started for the 
flower gardens; cuttings of 
Geraniums, Coleus, Alternan- 
thera, etc., for formal bedding; 
while for the vegetable garden 
lettuce, eggplant, pepper, to- 
matoes, etc. 
