March, 1906 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



take place rather slowly. In such case, 

 sprinkle lightly throughout with warm water, 

 work over thoroughly, repile and let it stand 

 until fermentation takes place again. This 

 can be easily told from the vapor that passes 

 off. Again work over thoroughly and repile. 

 (Fig. No. 4.) 



Usually two turnings of the manure are 

 enough, but if one has time, it is well to let it 

 stand and heat a third or even a fourth time. 



We are now ready to put together the bed. 



Choose a spot that has the southern ex- 

 posure and is protected from north and north- 

 west winds, and where the natural drainage 

 is away from the bed. Start by spreading 

 evenly a layer of manure, which is 3 feet larger 

 each way than the frame and about 1 foot in 

 depth. (Fig. No. 5.) 



Pack this down well, especially around the 

 outside edges, and put on a second and third 

 laver until vou have a well-trodden and 



After placing the frame, sprinKle manure around the 

 inside edges and corners and pacK well 



Banking up loutside in order to protect the hotbed 

 from cold. Windbreaks are still better 



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Now put on the sash and leave it for a few days 

 until the heat steadies 



compact bed of manure at least 2^ feet in 

 depth. (Fig. No. 6.) 



Place the frame in the centre of this bed, 

 and press it down well. Sprinkle a little 

 manure around the sides and corners and 

 pack down firmly. (Fig. No. 7.) 



A 2-inch layer of decayed leaves spread 

 over the manure in the frame and well packed 

 down also serves to retain the heat in the bed. 



Bank up the outside of the frame with 

 manure or, if desired, build an open frame 

 outside and 1 foot distant from the hotbed 

 frame, and fill the space between with 

 manure. (Fig. No. 8.) • 



The sash should now be put on, and the 

 bed allowed to set for a few days, or until a 

 thermometer sunk well into the manure, 

 shows a temperature below 95 . (Fig. 

 No. 9.) 



During this time the bed should be well 

 ventilated in the heat of the day, to allow the 

 steam and ammonia fumes to pass off. 



Now put in the soil. This should be equal 

 parts of good, sifted garden loam and well- 

 rotted barnyard manure. Tramp well the 

 first layer of 3 inches. If you plan to sow 

 your seed in shallow boxes, this depth will be 

 sufficient, but if the seeds are to be planted 

 directly in the soil of the hotbed, another 

 layer of 2 or 3 inches should be added. (Fig. 

 No. 10.) 



When the seeds are sown do not drench the 

 whole bed with cold water, but sprinkle 

 lightly with lukewarm water only along the 

 rows where the seeds have been put in. The 

 commonest cause of failure is the use of too 

 much water. 



Take care that the plants do not become 

 pale and spindling, as they certainly will do 

 if they get too little light and air and too much 

 water. 



The heat of the bed is derived from two 

 sources, that resulting from the fermentation 

 of the manure, and that received from the 

 sun's rays. The first source, if the bed has 

 been properly made, will maintain a tem- 

 perature of from 50 to 6o° during ordinary 

 weather. When it is very cold or stormy, the 

 sash should be covered either with burlap, or 

 a 4- to 6-inch layer of loose straw or manure 

 to retain this heat. (Fig. No. 11.) 



With sun heat the temperature may go up 

 to 85 or higher; but it is better not to let it 

 get above that point. On warm days, you 

 must watch the bed closely to prevent over- 

 heating and burning. The best way to regu- 

 late the temperature is by raising and lowering 

 the sash. Small blocks of wood, 2x4x8 

 inches are convenient for this purpose. (Fig. 

 No. 12.) 



It will be necessary often to use some 

 additional protection for the bed; especially 

 when the sun's rays are too strong. For this 

 purpose screens made of cotton cloth stretched 

 on frames the size of the sash, or those made 

 from laths, are the best, although one may 

 get satisfactory results from spreading a light 

 layer of straw over the glass. 



A general rule to follow is: Open the sash 

 on pleasant mornings about an hour after 

 sunrise, and close it about an hour and a half 

 or two hours before sundowm On cold, 

 stormy days it is well to leave the bed alone 



but when work is to be done, do it during the 

 pleasant part of the day, being careful not to 

 have the sash off the frames for too long a 

 lime. 



In the summer after the young plants have 

 been removed to their permanent quarters, 

 the spent hotbed will prove a good place for 

 caring for the plants which have been grow- 

 ing all winter in the window garden. It is 

 also an admirable place in which to start and 

 winter such plants as violets, pansies, Eng- 

 lish daisies, and the polyanthus. These 

 though they are hardy outside, can be had 

 in bloom a month earlier if started under 

 cover in August or September. 



Foxgloves and Canterbury bells, started in 

 August and September from seed in the spent 

 hotbed and wintered there will make much 

 better plants than if grown and wintered in 

 the open. 



Putting in the soil. Pack the first four inches 

 rather firmly; then if you wish to raise seed in the 

 bed without flats, put in two inches more rather 

 loosely 



Protection for cold nights. Sprinkle four inches of 

 loose straw over the glass 



Ventilating. Lift the upper end of the frame and 

 put in a block of wood of the dimensions given in 

 the article 



