30 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



[ARCH, 1906 



among our aquatics it would destroy all the 

 tender plants, break down our lotus, papyrus, 

 and the like, and cover everything around 

 with a thick layer of mud. The season's 

 hopes would be gone. We shall do best, 

 therefore, to secure a more even supply of 

 water. A good spring will suffice for any- 

 thing except Victoria and the tender water- 

 lilies. Indeed, south of Philadelphia spring 

 water will materially help many of the hardy 

 nymphaeas to endure the summer heat. Lack- 

 ing a spring, water may be drawn by a pipe 

 or sluiceway from any near-by stream. The 

 sluice will of course be so arranged by gates 

 or by position of intake, as to avoid the 

 flooding of the pond in case of freshets. But, 

 after all, the easiest plan is to draw the water 

 from a pipe with a spigot. It is not necessary 

 to maintain a continuous flow and change 

 of water. Just as a balanced aquarium will 

 go for weeks or months without attention, 

 so with the pond. It is only requisite to 

 replace the water lost by evaporation and 

 leakage. From a surface of sixteen square 

 feet about a bucketful of water per day es- 



capes by evaporation and transpiration of the 

 plants. Stagnation is prevented by having a 

 few fish and some submerged plants like 

 cabomba or myriophyllum. It is therefore 

 very easy to care for a garden up to six by 

 twelve feet, even with only a bucket to sup- 

 ply water. On the other hand, a large pond 

 fed by a natural stream will often be in dan- 

 ger from floods. Unless the stream be very 

 small in proportion to the lake it will be 

 necessary to have means of diverting it 

 into a culvert or sluice on occasion. 



Floating parts of plants have very remark- 

 able powers of accommodation to the depth 

 of the water. Water-lily leaves may be en- 

 tirely submerged in the evening, and by next 

 morning their stalks will have grown just 

 enough to spread them on the surface again. 

 But on all considerations, it is desirable that 

 the water level should not vary more than 

 four inches at the most; even this amount 

 may bring into view ugly strips of mud or 

 misonry. An outlet of ample size is as neces- 

 sary as an inlet for the regulation of the water 

 supply. Small ponds on level or gently slop- 



Tender water lilies must be taken up and stored over winter. Set them out May 15 (latitude of Philadelphia). 



They are best planted in tubs 



ing ground may be allowed to overflow their 

 sodded margins. If fed by a continuous 

 open stream, it may be most artistically led 

 away in a similar manner, either directly, or 

 by a waterfall, or through a bog garden. 



It is often very desirable to drain the pond, 

 in order to repair its walls, to clean it out, or 

 to replant or take in tender species. Pro- 

 vision should be made for this. Both outlet 

 and drain may be provided as follows : Lead 

 a large (4 or 6-inch) pipe from the deepest 

 part of the pond to some lower outlet — sewer 

 or stream. In the pond attach an elbow 

 joint so as to let the pipe turn vertically up- 

 ward. Screw into the joint a piece of pipe 

 just long enough to reach up to the desired 

 water level. Now when the tank is full any 

 overflow may go down the pipe and out. To 

 empty the tank it is only necessary to unscrew 

 the upright piece from the elbow. The outlet 

 should in any case be covered with a wire net 

 to prevent clogging of the drain, to retain fish, 

 and to keep floating plants from being lost. 

 Should the regular outlet be over a waterfall 

 or dam, a large pipe may be laid in the lower 

 part of this wall. A wooden plug at its inner 

 end will close it on ordinary occasions, and 

 can be removed when the pond is to be emp- 

 tied. From small ponds the water can be 

 dipped or siphoned out. 



WHEN TO PLANT 



Hardy water-lilies may be planted at any 

 time. If started in early spring they should 

 bloom throughout the summer. 



Tender water-lilies must not go out of doors 

 until warm weather is established. A cold 

 storm often occurs in the first ten days of 

 June (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and if 

 it does it will sadly damage or destroy any- 

 thing tender. Lotus (Nelumbo) should be 

 planted about the first of May. 



Where the pond is very large, or if but one 

 variety of plant is to be grown, the roots may 

 be allowed to run freely in the bottom of the 

 pond. Ordinarily it is much preferable to 

 plant in definite tubs or beds of wood or 

 masonry, be they of whatever size or shape. 

 If this is done the strong-growing kinds will 

 not smother out the weak, and those which 

 naturally spread rapidly will stay within 

 proper limits. Lotus rhizomes may run 

 thirty or forty feet in a season if not restricted. 

 Floating plants, like water-hyacinth, must be 

 kept in place by means of floating wooden 

 pens made fast to stakes. The pen, which 

 should be made of inch-square or ix2-inch 

 lumber, will soon be hidden by vegetation. 



THE BOG GARDEN 



The bog garden consists merely of very 

 wet ground in which a host of interesting 

 plants flourish. It must, of course, be beside 

 a. pond or along a stream. In spring the 

 brown woolly fronds of cinnamon fern will 

 first show themselves, uncoiling as they rise. 

 The marsh -mallow (Hibiscus moscheulos) 

 will give a wealth of great white or pink 

 flowers in mid-summer. In autumn blue 

 mists of asters or a yellow glow of coreopsis 

 and dazzling shafts of cardinal flower (Lobe- 

 lia cardinalis) will brighten the spot. 



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