146 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



April, 1906 



and height as in the table below. Then 

 pick out the flowers that are to be dominant 

 at each of the twelve periods between April 

 ist and November ist. 



Then make three charts — one each for 

 spring, summer and autumn effect, and use 

 colored pencils for your big masses. 



Lastly fill in with your flowers of minor 

 importance. 



TWO CROPS OF FLOWERS ON THE SAME 

 GROUND 



My narcissus is planted in a belt about 

 eight inches wide and after they have bloomed 

 the same space is covered for three months 

 with the blossoms of "Tom Thumb" sweet 

 alyssum. The narcissus bulbs stay in the 

 same place for several years and the alyssum 

 seeds are sown right above them early in 

 May. Alyssum begins to bloom in July and 

 continues for the rest of the season. 



The space occupied by the crown imperial 

 is later covered over by the foliage of the 

 phlox and Shasta daisy. 



TRAINING THE OBSTREPEROUS ACHILLEA 



The phlox "Coquelicot" and "Pearl" 

 achillea are alternated in a row about a foot 

 apart and a foot back from the front of the 

 border. "The Pearl" achillea is most useful 

 because it blooms the greater part of the sum- 



mer and because white is a great pacifier of 

 conflicting colors. 



As the stems are inclined to fall over, one 

 year I pegged the two-foot stalks along the 

 ground, over the narcissus, where the up- 

 lifted bloom made an excellent edging. The 

 second year I was better satisfied with the 

 result of cutting off the tops when the plants 

 were six inches high. This made them 

 bushy and the individual stalks lighter, and 

 they appeared to better advantage, using the 

 leaves of the German iris behind them for 

 support. An occasional bent wire was 

 inserted to prevent their crowding too closely 

 upon the phlox which was interspersed for 

 contrasts. 



HOW THE BLUE SPIREA HIDES THE DEFECT 

 OF THE PEONIES 



About a foot behind my irises, and alterna- 

 ting with the peonies which are just behind, 

 is the blue spirea (Caryopteris Mastacan- 

 thus), the plants of which are set five feet 

 apart. This is a very profuse bloomer and 

 eventually hides the foliage of the peonies 

 which is liable to become unsightly late in the 

 season. The blue spirea attracts innumer- 

 able bees whose humming is most de- 

 lightful. 



About fifteen inches behind the blue 



spirea is a row of peonies and hydrangeas 

 which alternate and are about two feet apart. 

 The hydrangeas commence flowering in July, 

 the flowers lasting till long after frost, gradu- 

 ally turning from white to deep pink. They 

 are pruned in February and the peony tops 

 are cut off late in the fall. 



Between these and the fence — back of the 

 border — is a row of tiger lilies in chimps 

 about two feet apart. 



THREE POINTS ABOUT PHLOX 



The phloxes are more effective when 

 planted in groups or masses of separate 

 colors. They will do better for being raised 

 a little above the level of the bed. It will 

 prevent damping off. 



Should you mourn because the phlox is 

 just coming into bloom when you are leaving 

 home for two or three weeks, nip off the 

 heads and the side shoots will have a display 

 nearly ready to greet you upon your return. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE 6 X 30 BORDER 



My German iris is planted in clumps about 

 two feet apart in a row a foot and a half from 

 the phlox and achillea. Each clump is a 

 color by itself, but the different clumps 

 have different colors — white, blue or yellow. 

 After the flowers are gone the foliage is very 

 effective. 



How to Use a Planting Plan— By i. G. Tabor 



New 

 York 



A COMPLETE CHART FOR A 50x100 LOT, SHOWING EXACTLY WHERE TO SET EVERY TREE AND SHRUB, AND HOW TO 

 TRANSFER THE PLAN TO THE GROUND— A FEATURE NEVER BEFORE PRESENTED IN ANY HORTICULTURAL PERIODICAL 



Publisher's Note. If you want an artistic garden, you must learn how to make and use plans. A plan like this would probably cost you about $150. It solves one of the 

 hardest and commonest problems — how to lay out a typical suburban lot, or rather, a pair of lots measuring 25 x 100 (the common unit near New York and several other large 

 cities). The shallowness of the lot makes it difficult to screen unsightly objects and create a landscape picture. Both these results are accomplished below, and the plants 

 are also selected with reference to permanence, ease of culture, harmony of color-effect, and year-round interest. We shall be glad to be. of further service to anyone who in- 

 tends planting a place in accordance with these plans. 



The planting plans hitherto given in The Garden Magazine and Country Life in America have met with a cordial reception because they have given more specific directions 

 than any other plans that have been published in American periodicals. They have told what to plant, the cost, and the general position of the various plants. The present plan 

 goes a step farther; it shows exactly where to place each plant. It also illustrates how to transfer any other plan from the paper to the ground. This additional detail requires 

 an enormous amount of work on the part of the landscape gardener, and an inordinate amount of space in the magazine. Therefore we cannot allow ourselves this luxury, as a regular 

 thing, unless there is a well-defined demand for it, but anyone who will take the pains now to find out how to use a planting plan will be able to use to advantage subsequent plans 

 containing less detail. There is a little knack in using plans. They always look more formidable than they really are. 



PLANTING from a plan, though a very 

 simple matter when you know how, 

 looks difficult when first approached, and 

 for this reason I think many people shrink 

 from attempting to follow one. For the 

 sake of argument let us assume that one 

 object is to transfer to the garden the plan 

 given on the next page. First of all the tools: 



(1) A 5 ft. stick or rod, on which the 

 divisions into single feet are plainly marked. 



(2) A dozen or two wooden stakes, pointed 

 at one end so that they may be: easily driven 

 into the ground. 



(3) A heavy cord or twine about 25 ft. 

 long. 



Armed with these tools and the plan, which 

 has been marked off in 5 ft. squares, let 

 us start at the southwest corner and lay out 

 the border planting of shrubs and perennials 

 which forms the boundary along the south 

 side of the lot. On the western boundary line 

 measure 5 ft. north by laying the rod on the 

 ground with one end at the corner. Drive a 

 stake at this point, and measure 5 ft. north 



from it and drive another stake. This gives 

 10 ft., which is more than the width of this 

 border excepting in one place. That we 

 will consider when we come to it. 



Now, beginning again at the corner, 

 measure 5 ft. east on the southern boundary 

 line and drive a stake, repeating four times, 

 which will give a distance of 20 ft. At this 

 point — 20S on plan — measure north 5 ft. and 

 drive a stake. From this stake stretch the 

 cord to the stake at 5W — the first one 

 driven — -and you have enclosed the area of 

 the first four squares. 



Starting once more from the corner meas- 

 ure 5 ft. east, this time on the stretched 

 cord instead of on the southern boundary 

 line. Lay the measuring rod from the point 

 found on the cord to the first stake on the 

 southern boundary — 5S on plan — and you 

 have enclosed the area of the first square. 

 In the centre of this square the plan calls for 

 No. 27. The hole for it may be dug at once, 

 or its location staked, as is most convenient. 



It is better, usually, to put in stakes for all 



the plants of one kind, then dig the holes and 

 set them before proceeding to the next lot. 



The next three squares will now be meas- 

 ured off in the same way, and the stake driven 

 in the centre, before any holes are dug. Then 

 the four plants of elder (Sambucus nigra) 

 may be planted at the same time. After these 

 are set, go back to the second square, and 

 \\ ft. from its western edge, on the line 

 marked by the cord, drive a stake to indicate 

 one of the plants of No 1, high cranberry 

 {Viburnum Opulus). In the same way stake 

 the place for the last honeysuckle No. 3 

 (Lonicera Morrowi) — in the fourth square. 

 Dig the holes for these and set them at once, 

 if it is your purpose to set out the perennials 

 as well as the trees and shrubs. Of course, the 

 heavy shrubs must always go in before the 

 lighter things. 



Three plants of No. 20, Sweet William, 

 fall within the line of the cord — one is almost 

 on the corner of the second square, the next 

 one is ij ft. from the first, in the third square, 

 and the third 1 \ ft. removed from the second. 



