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230 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



May. 1906 



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Hardy Garden Flowers No. 4 



T"\0 YOU know the Campanulas or Bell Flowers ? That charming family that includes the Blue 

 1 1 pells of Scotland as well as the towering Chimney Flower that bursts into bloom way above 

 its fellows? Nothing can surpass in beauty the grace of the clusters of delicate blue or 

 white flower bells which distinguish the Campanulas. 1 The dominant color of this extensive and 

 exquisite family is blue, but there are also white varieties and a few run to shades of purple. 

 Blue is the rare color in flowers and is the most desirable for the garden, especially in mid- 

 summer, and the bell flowers bloom then. 1* In the Campanula family there is as great a range 

 or planting possibilities as there is in size, for there is a blue flower for every possible situa- 

 tion, from the cool, moist, shaded location to the exposed, sun-baked position. 



The following varieties are the most popular, and we have an exceedingly choice stock: \ 



NAME 



COLOR 



TIME OF 

 FLOWERING 



HEIGHT 



PK 

 each 



CE 



per doz. i 



1 C. alliariaefolia 



White 



lune and July 



2 ft. 



15 cents 



$1.50 



C. Carpatica 



Clear blue 



All summer 



8 in. 



15 " 



1-5° 



C. " var. alba 



White 



All summer 



8 in. 



■5 " 



1.50 



C. " var. ccelestina 



Light blue 



All summer 



8 in. 



'5 " 



ISO 



C. Garaganica 



Light blue 



June 



3 to 6 in. 



25 " 



2.50 , 



C. glomerata (Clustered B. ]1 Flower) 



Light blue 



July and August 

 July and August 

 lulv 



z8 in. 



15 " 



1.50 



C. " var. Dahurica 



Deep blue 



I to 2 ft. 



20 " 



2 00 



C. medium in variety (Canterbury Bellsj 



Various 



2 to 3 ft. 



1=! " 



1 so 



C. persicifolia 



Blue 



June and July 



18 to 24 in. 



15 •' 



1.50 



C. " var. alba 



White 



June and July 



18 to 24 in. 



15 " 



1.50 



C. " var. flore-pleno 



Blue 



June and Tuly 



18 to 24 in. 



15 " 



1.50 



C. ■ " v;ir. alba flore-pleno 



White 



June and July 



18 to 24 in. 



15 " 



1 so 



C. " var. Backhousei 



White 



lune 



2 to 3 ft. 



15 " 



1. SO 



C. " var. Mcerheimi gigantea 



White 



lune and July 



18 to 24 in. 



25 " 



2.S0 



C. pyramidalis (Chimney Flower) 



Blue 



September 



4 to 5 ft. 



25 " 



2.50 



C. rotuiw ifolia (Blue Bells of Scotland t 



Blue 



June to August 



12 in. 



15 " 



1.50 



C. Sarmatica 



Purplish bine 



Juiy 



2 to 3 ft. 



15 " 



1 50 



C. turbinata 



Violet blue 



lune 



8 in. 



IS " 



1. SO 



C. punctata 



White spotted rose 



May and lune 



12 in. 



15 " 



1-5° 



Are you planting- a hardy garden this Spring ? If not, you will miss the beauty of the Iris, the Larkspur, 

 the Anemone, the Foxglove, the Hollyhock, and all the old-fashioned flowers ot character and beauty which 

 follow in succession and give you bloom from earliest Spring until frost. 



We are specialists in hardy perennials and grow a superb stock of all the kinds. 



Send for oitr iqo6 illustrated catalogue t t> T7"CT T "CD CHNQ "Pnf*hActA*- AT V 

 of northern grown hardy perennials J« -D» ivEi-l-CIX. OV^rtO, 1\UWUC31W y 1>. 1, 



feet apart. The horizontal pieces are ixi£ 

 inch strips, fifteen feet long, and they are 

 placed one foot apart and to which the plants 

 are tied as they grow. 



This frame will accommodate five plants, 

 one each side, if they have been set three feet 

 apart in the row. The soil beneath it is 

 easily reached to cultivate with a hoe. My 

 frame has the advantage of being light and 

 easy to move about. In the fall, when the 

 crop is finished, it is stored under cover for 

 the winter. It is just as good to-day as it 

 was five years ago when it was made. 



It has another excellent point: the vines 

 are held at a slant so are more readily ac- 

 cessible for removing side-shoots and picking 

 fruit and the fruits are better exposed to the 

 sun than on an upright trellis. 



Missouri J. R. Bettis. 



Tomatoes as Wall Fruit 



ACROSS the middle of our garden is a re- 

 taining wall 5 feet high and 45 feet 

 long with the earth on the upper side level 

 with the top. Early in the spring a row of 

 holes was dug about a foot square and a foot 

 deep, three feet back from the wall and filled 

 to the top with fresh cow manure. As 

 early as the weather would permit a row of 

 tomato plants was set halfway between that 

 and the wall with the idea of training the 

 vines down over the wall instead of staking 

 them up. The manure pits were kept well 

 watered, but no water was applied to the 

 surface of the ground. The idea was that 

 the water from the manure pits would find 

 its way to the roots of the vines. The vines 

 grew thriftily and unusually vigorously and 

 naturally went down over the wall. They 

 soon reached the bottom and bore great 

 clusters of tomatoes. The foliage entirely 

 hid the wall and the effect of the great bank 

 of vines with the ripe tomatoes peeping out 

 was pleasing. The sun shone directly 

 against the wall for many hours each day and 

 as a result we picked the first ripe tomatoes 

 June 15th. 

 Ohio Charles A. Hartley. 



Dodging the Cut-worm 



FOR many years I have been successful in 

 saving my tomato plants from the rav- 

 ages of cut-worm by simply wrapping around 

 the stem of the plant a piece of paper of 

 such width as to cover it an inch or so below 

 the surface of the ground and the same dis- 

 tance above. The paper affords complete 

 protection and does not at all bind the stem 

 in its growth. It is important to have it well 

 above the surface as the worm will some- 

 times cut quite a distance above. Sometimes 

 when the precaution has been omitted, a 

 ring of pasteboard, forced into the ground 

 around the plant and extending a little above 

 the surface, has served the purpose. 



Sometimes the plants have become, before 

 planting, too tall to stand up if planted with 

 only the root below ground. In such case 

 lay the stem in a trench, turning up the end 

 sufficiently to make a top that will answer and 

 cover with the paper when in that position. 

 The plant will root in the trench and will be 

 all the better for the additional feeding surface. 



New Jersey J. A. Anderson. 



