The Garden Magazine 



Vol. Ill— No. 6 



Published Monthly 



JULY, 1906 



I One Dollar a Year 

 1 Ten Cents a Copy 



How to Make your Garden 

 Cost you Nothing 



THERE is a Canadian amateur who has 

 spent about $300 for seeds, plants, and 

 bulbs during the last ten years, and every 

 cent of it has come out of the garden, al- 

 though he has never sold a thing. 



The prizes that he wins have covered all the 

 cost of his garden — tools, fertilizers and all — 

 for nearly fifteen years. It doesn't pay for 

 his time, but no amateur has a right to count 

 that. The point is that this prize money 

 enables him to try 'all sorts of new things 

 which he could not otherwise afford. 



Is it too late for you to compete for any 

 of the prizes offered by your local improve- 

 ment society, or by the seedsmen? Better 

 make sure. Don't guess. 



If it is too late, here is a chance for you to 

 make a little something without compro- 

 mising your dignity or amateur standing. 



Read "Record-Breaking Experiences in 

 Gardening," in the Christmas number. 

 The amateurs who wrote those articles re- 

 ceived anywhere from $5 to $15. You can 

 do something like that, and it may pay you 

 better than any prize your county fair offers 

 to gardeners. 



We will pay $5 for every acceptable photo- 

 graph, accompanied by dates, figures, and 

 methods of cultivation, showing that you have 

 improved upon anything pictured or describ- 

 ed in any number of the Garden Maga- 

 zine, provided you remind us of this offer. 



But, of course, we shall take more pleasure 

 in awarding these prizes for new and original 

 experiences. What are you cultivating that 

 is new, earlier, bigger, longer in season, or of 

 better quality? 



You still have time to concentrate upon 

 some record-making achievement. If you 

 are at a loss for ideas, consider whether you 

 can do any of the things suggested on this 

 page. If you can beat any of the dates here 

 mentioned, it should constitute an achieve- 

 ment worth photographing and recording. 



For example, we want to publish in our 

 Spring Planting Number for April, 1907, the 



best article that has ever appeared on "How 

 to Have Vegetables in the Cellar All Winter." 

 We never expect to find any one person who 

 has had a sufficiently wide and satisfactory 

 experience to write this article. So we want 

 suggestions from every part of the country. 

 Won't you help us get a planting table for 

 winter vegetables, and photographs of all 

 sorts of devices for storing them ? 



THREE CROPS ON THE SAME GROUND 



These are not theoretical propositions. 

 Every one of them has been carried out by 

 Mr. William Scott, of Tarrytown, New York. 

 Follow these plans, and you will exhaust 

 your soil less than if you grow peas after 

 peas, etc. Also, you will avoid some trouble- 

 some insects and diseases which you might 

 get by planting some two members of the 

 same botanical family in succession. If you 

 know any better combinations for the same 

 period, won't you tell us? We might be 

 grateful to the extent of $5. 



1. Plant Purple-top turnips June 17th, 

 after early cabbage, (set out April 14th.) 

 The turnips should be harvested by August 

 18th, and the plot can be sown to winter beets. 



2. Sow early Valentine beans June 15th, 

 or whenever your first crop of spinach is gone. 

 The beans should be ready August 16th, after- 

 wards sow Yellow Stone turnips for winter. 



3. Transplant young lettuce June 18th, 

 or whenever early beets have been harvested. 

 This crop of lettuce should be harvested by 

 August first, and string beans can follow. 



4. Sow corn June 20th, on land from which 

 you harvested early peas, sown April 6th. 



5. Sow lettuce June 20th, on land where 

 early turnips sown April 6th have been har- 

 vested. This lettuce should be harvested 

 by August 20th, when you can sow spinach, 

 for October use. 



6. Set out cabbage plants June 27th on 

 land from which early carrots sown April 8th 

 have been harvested. 



7. Sow winter carrots June 28th, on land 

 from which string beans sown April 18th 

 have been harvested. 



8. Plant winter celery July 25th on land 

 from which early corn planted April 15th 

 should be harvested. 



INSURE AGAINST FALL SHORTAGE 



The chief reason why most gardens have 

 so little variety in September, and almost 

 nothing in October, is that somebody neg- 

 lected to plant succession crops in July. 

 Try some of these schemes, and keep a full 

 accurate account of what you get. 



It is not necessary for you to beat these 

 particular dates, or their equivalents for 

 your locality. Quantity, length of yield, 

 and quality are more important. 



First, and most important, sow Cory 

 sweet corn July 1st and 15th, for September 

 use. (It has been known to mature in less 

 than 60 days.) 



Next to corn, the most important vegetable 

 for succession is the snap bean. You should 

 sow Early Valentine every fortnight from 

 June 15th to August 1st, if you don't want a 

 big gap in September and October (Beans 

 should mature in 45 days). 



Sow Daniel O'Rourke or other early peas 

 June 15th, July 1st and 15th, in a cool, 

 partially shaded spot, for September use. 

 Peas don't like hot weather, but these three 

 plantings should give you one good crop 

 when your neighbors have none. (Record 

 36 days.) 



You can't have fresh cucumbers in Septem- 

 ber unless you sow them about June 15th. 

 Use the Early White Spine. The normal 

 time to sow cucumbers for pickles is June 

 15th to July 7th. Thus you avoid fighting 

 the beetle. 



Sow Eclipse beet July 1st and 15th for fall 

 use — not for storage. Should mature in 

 50 days. 



Get acquainted with summer and autumn 

 radishes. Sow White Stuttgart about July 

 1 st. In 6 or 8 weeks it becomes 3 or 4 inches 

 in diameter, and does not get pithy in hot 

 weather for a long time. 



Nature's hot weather substitutes for 

 lettuce and spinach are endive and New 

 Zealand spinach. Sow each once in June 

 and once in July, "for August delivery." 



A SEED ORDER IN JULY! 



Who ever heard of such a thing ? No one ! 

 But that's no matter. Try these new 

 things, and you will not regret it. Clinch 

 the matter by ordering the seeds to-day. We 

 venture to say you do not know half of these 

 varieties. 



Any time in July buy celery plants of some 

 winter variety (e. g. Pascal, Fin de Siecle) not 

 the early sorts, like White Plume. 



Sow Hubbard squash before June 20th, 

 for winter use. Plant among corn, 1 inch 

 deep and allow them 4x6 feet. Should 

 mature in 125 days. 



Ask your seedsman for an improved va- 

 riety of Purple-top turnip. Sow once any 

 time from June to August. 



Sow Long Orange or Danvers carrot before 

 July 20th. To be stored in boxes of damp 

 sand in the cellar. 



Do you know the pleasure of having winter 

 radishes ? Sow the Half-long Black Spanish 

 winter radish once between June 15th and 

 July 15th. The roots become 7 to 10 inches 

 long, and after being stored in a dry cellar 

 require two or three months to mature. 

 Flesh white, mild, crisp. 



