Jui 



1906 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



329 



and Marlboro of the red raspberries; Shaffer 

 and Columbian of the purple cane rasp- 

 berries; and Snyder, Wilson, Kittaninny and 

 Taylor of the blackberries. The white 

 varieties of blackberries have little to com- 

 mend them. The subject of varieties for 

 different sections of the country is considered 

 in Country Life in America for March, 

 April and May. 



DEWBERRIES EARLIER THAN BLACKBERRIES 



The chief claim of dewberries for a place 

 in the home garden is that they ripen two 

 weeks earlier than blackberries and so 

 lengthen the blackberry season. Another 

 advantage in some localities is that the vines 

 can be protected in winter much easier than 

 blackberries. But here the advantages end, 

 for dewberries are much harder to manage, 

 more variable in quality and less productive 

 than blackberries. However, the man who 

 is fond of blackberries will be likely to have 

 a row of dewberries also. Their culture is 

 the same as that of blackberries, except as 

 regards training. The vines may be trained 

 to a wire trellis, but are preferably planted 

 and kept in hills and the vines of each hill 

 trained to a stake about five feet high. The 

 fruiting canes are tied to the stake in the 

 spring and the new canes sprawl over the 

 ground at will until the following spring, when 

 they, in turn, are tied to the stake. The 

 Lucretia is grown more than other sorts. 



THE WORST DISEASES 



As a rule, brambles are more free from 

 insects and diseases than other fruits. Per- 

 haps the most serious trouble is the anthrac- 

 nose, which attacks the young canes of all 

 brambles but is most serious on black rasp- 

 berries. It appears in midsummer making 

 pits in the canes. These are grayish with a 

 purple edge. They may run together, and, 

 in very serious cases, kill the canes com- 

 pletely. The berries do not ripen on canes 

 that are even slightly diseased. 



Treatment: Set no diseased plants, and 

 do not take plants from a diseased plantation. 

 Cut out diseased canes as soon as seen. Do 

 not allow the canes to stand thickly. Spray 

 the young shoots as soon as they appear 

 with Bordeaux and repeat this once or twice 

 at intervals of about two weeks. In some 

 cases the disease refuses to yield to treatment 

 and a new planting of young plants from 

 healthy stock is necessary. 



The orange rust or red rust attacks black- 

 berries, raspberries and dewberries. It 

 makes orange colored spots, which are 

 masses of spores, on the under sides of the 

 leaves. There is no help for a plant once 

 attacked; dig it up at once and burn it. 



The root gall or crown gall. Rough, 

 knotty galls, often several inches in diameter, 

 appear on the stem close to the ground or 

 just beneath the surface. There are also 

 smaller galls on the roots. The plants look 

 sickly. The disease is partial to the red 

 raspberry but also attacks other brambles. 

 The cause of the trouble is still in dispute, 

 but it is thought to be a slime mould. The 

 only treatment suggested is to dig up and 

 destroy diseased plants. Do not plant rasp- 



Tipping raspberries. The ends of the branches are covered with soil in midsummer. By fall the tips will 

 have rooted. They may be separated then or the following spring 



berries for several years where diseased 

 plants have stood. Set no plants having 

 suspicious swellings on the roots. 



INJURIOUS INSECTS 



The rose chafer or rose bug often attacks 

 the brambles, eating both flowers and foliage. 

 They are particularly destructive on light 

 soils, in which they breed. Poisons, kerosene 

 emulsion and pyrethrum are sometimes 

 fairly effective, but all remedies for this in- 

 sect often fail. Hand picking or some device 

 for knocking them off and catching them is 

 sometimes practicable. 



The raspberry saw-fly. The larvae of 

 this black fly, which may be seen around 

 raspberries in May and June, feed upon the 

 leaves and often defoliate the plants. They 

 are green, and about one-half inch long. The 



remedy is to spray or dust the plants with 

 hellebore or with an arsenite. 



The raspberry cane-borer works in the 

 young shoots of raspberry and blackberry, 

 causing them to wither and the ends to droop. 

 One or two rows of punctures may be found 

 encircling the shoot. The remedy is to cut 

 off the shoot several inches below the punc- 

 tures as soon as it begins to droop, and to 

 destroy together with the borer inside. 

 When an entire cane begins to die, in late 

 summer, it should be cut off close to the 

 ground and burned. 



With good care, the brambles may be kept 

 in bearing for many years but it is seldom 

 wise to do this. It pays to reset every four to 

 six years. This gives the plants the benefits 

 of a rotation and prevents disease and weeds 

 from getting a foothold. 



Raspberries and blackberries bent over for winter protection. This simple precaution will often save a 

 crop. Lift up the canes very early in the spring 



