22 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



August, 1914 



tected will be found to have taken hold 

 by spring. 



After the junipers take the Thuyas 

 (arborvitaes). The common occidentalis 

 is easily raised from seed, and it is hardly 

 worth while troubling with cuttings; but 

 its sports and varieties such as pyramidalis 

 lutea (Geo. Peabody), Victoria, War- 

 reniana, etc., can only be had by cuttings. 

 The dwarf or globe varieties, and the 

 biotas, will root in from six weeks to two 

 months. 



The Japanese cypresses (Retinispora) 

 root more readily, often in a month. Com- 

 mence with filifera; then follow with pisi- 

 fera plumosa, ericoides, squarrosa, and 

 Veitchii. The last two are the easiest 

 of all to root. Don't, however, imagine 

 for a moment that you will get every 

 cutting to root; if you can bring 50 per 

 cent, through until next spring you will 

 be doing well. 



The pines and spruces are raised from 

 seed and by grafting, and it is hardly 

 worth while for the amateur to trouble 

 with them. They can be procured very 

 cheaply from any reliable nurseryman in 

 small sizes when wanted to grow on. 



EVERGREEN VINES 



Under the heading of evergreens may 

 also be placed English ivy, periwinkle 

 {Vinca minor), and Enonymus radicans. 

 These are all extremely easy to root, and 

 the manure for bottom heat as previously 

 described can be dispensed with. Indeed 

 it will do to simply add a liberal sprinkling 

 of sand to any ordinary garden soil, mix 

 it well and put in the cuttings of half 

 ripened wood, water well, and close the 

 sash for three weeks. Then ventilate 

 gradually, and when they will stand full 

 air without wilting, remove the sash 

 entirely for use on some other frame. 

 These cuttings will make nice plants by 

 fall, but should be left in the frames and 

 given a protection of salt hay or litter 

 when winter sets in, and transplanted next 

 spring. My first batches were rooted 

 by July 1st, but cuttings can be put in 

 up to September and still give nice plants 

 for spring planting. 



FLOWERING SHRUBS 



The summer propagation of shrubs is 

 now largely practised by nurserymen. 

 After the spring rush is over, and the weeds 

 under subjection, the work can be under- 

 taken easily before the fall season opens. 

 A number of things that are hard to root 

 from dormant wood in spring will root 

 freely from green cuttings. The wood of 

 this season's growth is just right in July 

 and August. Take it with a heel if possible, 

 as recommended for evergreens, and cut 

 back the top if the cutting be long. 



Such things as lilacs, Enonymus alatus 

 and europea, Chionanthus Virginica, vari- 

 ous viburnums, andromedas, azaleas, and 

 kalmia, Daphne cneorum, Abelia rupestris, 

 and many others that are usually raised 

 by budding or grafting, can be successfully 

 raised from cuttings in summer. The 



host of every day shrubs (deutzias, for- 

 sythias, barberries, calycanthus, hydran- 

 geas, kerrias, privets, honeysuckle, mock 

 oranges, spireas, stephanandra, weigela, 

 etc.), which are usually, and easily, propa- 

 gated from dormant wood in early spring, 

 may also be struck from soft wood cuttings 

 now, if desired. They will be nicely rooted 

 by fall, and with a slight protection will 

 be in fine condition to put out next spring. 

 Treat as already advised for ivy and 

 vinca. 



GROW YOUR OWN ROSES 



Really it is easy to grow roses from 

 cuttings. They may be treated as advised 

 for ivy and vinca; but quicker and better 



results will be 

 obtained if 

 treated in the 

 way advised for 

 evergreens, and, 

 after they are 

 rooted, potted 

 into small pots 

 and put back in 

 the frame and 

 slightly shaded 

 till they get a 

 hold. Givesome 

 protection in 

 winter and the 

 plants will be fit 

 for putting out 

 next spring. 

 The Hybrid 

 Perpetuals, Hy- 

 brid Teas, and 

 Teas are usually 

 budded in Au- 

 gust or as soon as the eyes are plump, but 

 own root roses succeed perfectly in many 

 places, particularly if the soil be a heavy 

 loam or clay loam, and there is no reason 

 why the amateur gardener should not in- 

 crease his stock of favorites in this way. 

 There is some interest to be derived from 

 noticing the behavior of different varieties; 

 some will root more freely than others, and 

 there is always some pleasure in being able 

 to tell your friends how successful you have 

 been with the shy fellows. 



Nowadays no one thinks 01 buying any 

 but "own root" stock of the ramblers, and 

 the Wichuraianas can be had. very easily 

 from cuttings made now. Select wood of 

 this year that is fairly well ripened (hard 

 wood is slow to root and too green wood 

 will turn black and often spoil those next 

 to them). Cut your stems into pieces, 

 allowing two leaves for each cutting. 

 Pull off the lower leaf being careful not to 

 tear off any of the bark. Also shorten 

 back the other leaf if it be large. Then 

 with a sharp knife make a clean cut close 

 to the bud, where the leaf was pulled off. 

 Get quite close to the bud without cutting 

 it. The reason for this is that the wood is 

 always hardest at this point, has less 

 pith, and will heal over readily. Ramblers 

 can also be raised by taking this year's 

 lateral shoot with a slight heel. Prac- 

 tically every cutting will root. 



Evergreen cuttings ready for 

 the frame 



TRICKS WITH PERENNIALS 



Perennials are principally raised by 

 seeds and division. Delphiniums, fox- 

 gloves, lupins, coreopsis, gaillardias, lychnis, 

 pansies, bellis, sweet William, and a great 

 many other popular favorites are raised 

 thus from sowings made this month, and 

 it is generally unnecessary to trouble with 

 cuttings. 



But many of our favorite varieties do 

 not come true to seed and these have 

 to be raised by cuttings and division. The 

 phloxes have to be raised thus. For the 

 early flowering type (e. g., Miss Lingard), cut 

 off the tips of the shoots before the flower 

 buds are set, remove some of the lower 

 leaves and trim the base as advised for 

 roses. Treat them as advised for ever- 

 greens and they will root as readily as 

 geraniums . The later or suffruticosa kinds 

 (including Coquelicot and Frau G. Von Lass- 

 burg types), can also be increased this way, 

 but a much quicker method is available: 



About the end of September or beginning 

 of October, lift the whole clump from the 

 ground, being careful not to break off any 

 of the small roots and keep each clump or 

 variety separate. Lay the clump on a. 

 bench, board, or other hard surface, and 

 with a spade chop it up as you would mince 

 meat with a chopper. A good sized clump 

 will thus give several hundred small pieces 

 of root. 



Prepare a piece of ground either in a 

 frame or in the open garden, and sow the 

 small pieces as you would seeds; cover 

 them with about half an inch of earth 

 and as winter sets in protect lightly with 

 leaves. Next spring uncover, and in a 

 short time the young plants will come up 

 as thickly as in a seed bed. When large 

 enough to handle, transplant them. Each 

 plant will give one head of flowers the first 

 season. Anemone Japonica and its varie- 

 ties, Eupatorium ccelestium, Gypsophilla, 

 Achillea, and any of the perennials that 

 have similar roots can all be propagated 

 in this way. A method of growing Anchusa 

 from root cuttings was told in last month's 

 Garden Magazine; perennial or orien- 

 tal poppy may be raised in exactly the 

 same way. 



Phlox subulata can be propagated readily 

 now. Just cut from the old plants pieces 

 about 3 to 4 inches long and dibble them 

 into a well prepared bed in a frame; keep 

 them well watered, and you will scarcely 

 lose a plant. 



Campanula, Physostegia, Rudbeckia, Lo- 

 belia of the cardinalistype, astilbe,andmany 

 of those plants that make a pithy growth 

 or that send their leaves and flower spikes 

 directly from a crown (astilbe is a good 

 example) , can be divided into single crowns 

 in August or September. They will get 

 a good hold before winter and will make 

 nice plants for another year. 



Veronica subsessilis, Penstemon, hardy 

 aster, Boltonia, Asclepias, Iberis, old 

 fashioned pinks, Dianthus and many others 

 can be raised from cuttings, in the man- 

 ner advised for the early perennial phlox. 



