October, 1914 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



83 



suckle, (Lonicera) ; Stag-horn Sumac (Rhus) ; 

 Rhododendron; Golde # n, Elder (Sambucus 

 nigra aurea); Spir.ea; Snow-ball (Vibur- 

 num); Weigela. 



3. Shrubs suitable for single specimens 

 both decorative and flowering. Rose of 

 Sharon (Althea); Butterfly Shrub (Bud- 

 dleia); White Fringe (Chionanthus Vir- 

 ginica); Hawthorn (Crataegus); Straw- 

 berry Shrub (Calycanthus floridus); 

 Euonymus, especially E. Japonica. 

 Angelica Tree (Aralia spinosa) ; 

 Hydrangea; Japanese Maples; ■&$ 

 Mock Orange; Smoke Tree (Rhus). 



4. Shrubs suitable for hedges 

 and borders. Bar- 

 berry (Berberis) ; 

 Boxwood, 

 especially for ..^ 

 formal, trim- 

 med hedges; 



inately about, even in the belief that you can 

 make a few go a long way by such a method. 

 With the exception of the few single speci- 

 mens which may be desirable, keep them in 

 groups, or "borders," along the boundary 

 lines, along paths or walks, or against bound- 

 ary or building walls. If you have had no 

 experience yourself, study the grouping of 

 some planting that strikes you as particular- 

 ly pleasing. There is no necessity to 

 imitate. But you will 

 find that the pleasing 



ing the larger 

 shrubs, first, start- 

 ing at the back of 

 the grouping to be 

 planned; or at the 

 middle if the group is 

 to have two " faces " 

 or in other words, 

 be seen from both 

 sides, as would be the 

 case with a shrub- 

 bery border planted 



vu 



t 



A 



SIDE STREET 



Japan Quince (Pyrus); Privet; Rosa rugo- 

 sa, especially for banks, and rough, hard to 

 cultivate places. 



The above list, while not long, offers 

 abundant variety in the possible combina- 

 tions which may be secured. With one or 

 two exceptions, varieties have not been men- 

 tioned, as their selection, with the corre- 

 sponding variations in season of bloom, color, 

 height, etc., will depend upon the plant- 

 ing scheme into which they are to be fitted. 

 The classification is of course by no means 

 hard and fast. For instance, most of those 

 mentioned in the first group may be used 

 in the second, and 

 to a large extent, 

 vice-versa. But 

 such a classifica- 

 tion enables the 

 prospective planter 

 quickly to get an 

 idea of the different 

 shrubs available 

 for any particular 

 purpose he may 

 have in view. The 

 niceties of color 

 schemes, success- 

 ion flowerings, win- 

 ter effects, he can 

 study out as he 

 progresses in the 

 art. 



There are a few 

 simple basic prin- 

 ciples which the be- 

 ginner with shrubs 

 should always keep 

 in mind. The 

 first is; keep an 

 open centre. Never 

 sprinkle your 



shrubs indiscrim- 



effect has been secured by so planting 

 that the shurbs grow or blend into each 

 other in natural curves and flowing lines, 

 both as to height and position — "ele- 

 vation" and "plan" as they are termed. 

 A plan often recommended for securing 

 this effect is to take stones or marbles of 

 various sizes, and throw them, planting a 



out the grounds 



along the front border of 

 the place with no hedge 

 or fence outside of it. 

 Having set these, work 

 forward to an artistic 

 waving line, curved 

 gracefully in and out at 

 the front, or foreground. 

 The simple suggestive 

 plan herewith illustrates 

 the use of all four of the 

 various types of shrubs 

 have discussed, in 

 positions similar to those 

 which are likely to be 

 encountered in laying 

 of the average place. 



shrub where each falls. 



Idealized scheme for disposition of shrubberyandtrees. Refer- 

 ences: 1. Low groups in backgrounds; 2. Tall shrubs on fore- 

 ground; 3. Individual specimens; 4 Borders and hedges 



The same device 

 is recommend for 

 naturalizing bulbs. 

 This method may 

 give better results 

 than planting in 

 straight lines, but 

 I have always con- 

 sidered it a poor 

 makeshift. Neith- 

 er bulbs or shrubs 

 are located by Na- 

 ture in that way. 

 A much better way 

 is to make a suffi- 

 cient number of 

 stakes, of shingles 

 or lath, or small 

 branches, and by 

 their proportionate 

 length, represent 

 the height of the 

 shrubstobe set out. 

 These may be read- 

 ily shifted about 

 until the basis for 

 an attractive 

 grouping is attain- 

 ed. Use the taller 

 stakes, represent- 



Preventing White Grub Attacks 



WHERE the destructive May beetles, 

 or so called June bugs, were abun- 

 dant last spring -white grubs may be looked 

 for in 191 5. Beetles appearing in the 

 spring of 19 15 deposit eggs which hatch 

 about a month after being laid. The 

 young grubs feed on roots and decaying 

 matter, but seldom do damage during their 

 first year. However, the following year 

 (191 5 in the present case) they are larger, 

 and feed almost entirely on living roots 

 preferably corn, timothy, potatoes, straw- 

 berries, etc., causing great loss. The fol- 

 lowing spring (191 6) they feed more or 

 less but by June 1st or shortly thereafter 

 they make earthen cells, become semi-dor- 

 mant and in a fortnight or longer change to 

 brown pupae, and a month later to adult 

 beetles, remaining there until 1917. 



Grounds likely to be infested with grubs 

 should be thoroughly plowed before Octo- 

 ber 10. The date of plowing will depend 

 on latitude and the weather conditions, for 

 the grubs go down as cold weather ap- 

 proaches and it is desirable to plow, when 

 possible, just before they go down. Hogs, 

 chickens and turkeys should be allowed 

 to run in the field wherever this can be 

 done. 



