The Garden Magazine 



COMPILED 

 THE TEN 



The 

 Flower Shows 



The 

 Roses 



NOVEMBER is the month 

 of flower shows in nearly 

 every residential centre, 

 and it is the duty of 

 every person interested in flowers, 

 fruit, and vegetables, to attend 

 some one of these exhibitions, not 

 only for the moral and financial 

 support afforded, 

 but to see what 

 other people are 

 doing and thereby gain knowledge. 



If you have anything from a head of cabbage to a rare orchid 

 that is exceptionally good or has some peculiar characteristic, 

 by all means exhibit it; and go yourself to see the novelties that 

 the trade exhibits. Keep up the good work by lending every 

 effort you can toward the success of your local flower show 



PENDER roses will need protection of some sort to carry them 

 through the winter. Some gardeners apply a dense covering 

 of leaves which cover most of the top. Strawing up the plants is 

 also very popular, and covering the plants with pine boughs is 

 also excellent, the object being simply to keep the 

 sun off the wood and to maintain more even tempera- 

 ture and conditions around the plants. The ground 

 must be well mulched with fairly good manure after the ground has 

 frozen a little on top. Standard or tree roses should be bent down 

 and buried slightly. We have tried strawing them also, but have 

 always had the best success by burying. 



TF THE perennial borders have not been 

 cleaned up already that little bit of work 

 had better be attended to at once. Cut 

 down all dead flower stalks and burn them. 

 p . . Clear the ground in between the 



. , plants of all weed growth. 



After the surface is slightly 

 frozen, a mulch of good quality manure 

 may be applied. Ah the perennial grasses 

 that are near buildings of any description 

 should be cut off and burned because they 

 are very inflammable. The only reason 

 for cutting them now is fire precaution. 

 Remote from buildings they may be left 

 alone since they make a good winter effect; 

 leave them until spring whenever possible. 

 It is also advisable to keep leaves raked 

 away from buildings. But fill the rhodo- 

 dendron bed with leaves, which afford the 

 finest protection for the plants and in 

 time - decay into a soil that is simply ideal 

 for the bed. Surplus leaves may be stored 

 elsewhere to rot. But do not sacrifice the 

 winter blanket over the ground just to 

 have a compost heap. The mulch is of 

 more importance. 



'p |_J r JkM f\ XT np If * C DANSY beds set out last month 



REMINDER 



WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO THE HOME GARDEN, FROM 

 YEARS' DIARIES OF A PRACTICAL EXPERT CARDENER 



Pansies 

 for spring 



For reckoning dates, the latitude of New York City is generally taken as a 



standard. In applying the directions to other localities, allow six 



days' difference for every hundred miles of latitude 



Bay trees and 

 Hydrangeas 



The most important thing to see to for winter protection 

 is the mulch. Covering the ground is far more effective 

 than covering the tops alone 



117 



for early spring flowering must 

 be covered with salt hay or leaves 

 before heavy freezing weather sets 

 in. The mulch should 

 be applied just as 

 soon as the plants 

 have been slightly frosted and 

 hardened. This can be followed in 

 a few days with a light covering of 

 hay. A great deal depends upon 

 finding a suitable place for storing 

 your hydrangeas over the winter. A cold yet frost proof cellar 

 where the air is quite stationary, makes an ideal place. Keep the 

 plants on the "dry side" when resting, which 

 means, don't give water enough to make the 

 tree wet. Bay trees must now be stored for 

 the winter. The mistake too often made is keeping them too 

 warm and wet, which promotes a soft, sappy growth. Maintain the 

 temperature between 40 and 45 degrees, and water very sparingly. 



TT IS not yet too late to plant perennials, though of course, it 

 should be done just as soon as possible. We have always had 

 better results from anemones planted in the fall, but any of the 

 „ ... . hardiest perennials, such as rudbeckias, iris, holly- 



hocks, helianthus, phlox, etc., can be moved now with 

 P an absolute security ; of course, mulching them after cold 



weather sets in. Plants that are soft and sappy by nature must 

 not be planted in the fall, however; such things as campanula, 

 eremurus, anchusa, or the pompon chrys- 

 anthemum all have soft fleshy roots that 

 will not as a rule stand fall planting. 



Certain plants, listed as tender, require 

 protection during the winter. In most cases 

 it will be found that such plants will endure 

 the winter if somescheme bearranged so that 

 water is shed from them and not on to them r 

 with an after covering of leaves or litter. For 

 water shedding, boxes or boards can be used 

 or a mound of earth will prove sufficient. 



DE SURE that all bedding plants, such 

 as coleus, geraniums, alternanthera, 

 etc., are not being neglected, as your next 

 season's supply depends upon these plants, 

 and much depends upon 

 the quality of your stock 

 plants when it comes to 

 propagating later on. Plants that have 

 been benched for forcing, such as antir- 

 rhinum, heliotrope, mignonette, etc., should 

 be kept well cultivated and watered very 

 carefully this month. In fact, everything 

 in the greenhouse should be watered care- 

 fully at this season of the year, as we are 

 now going into the short days. 



Plants for [the 

 Greenhouse 



