118 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



November, 1914 



Plants in 

 Pots 



A LL pot plants, such as calceolaria, cineraria, cyclamen, and 



primula should now be placed on the benches where they are 



to be flowered. They must now have good care, with a sharp 



lookout for insect pests as these plants are very 



subject to these pests. Be prompt to apply the 



remedy at once. Don't feed too freely at this season, 



in fact if you used good soil when potting, no feeding need be 



resorted to as yet. 



/CAMPANULAS for forcing should now be in large pots and 



placed in the coldframe. They must be kept cool and 



watered very carefully until a little later on, when they can be 



brought inside. Early lilies should now be brought in to force. 



These will stand a high temperature and plenty of feed- 



Forcing 

 Begins 



Roses, Carnations, 

 Chrysanthemums 



ing when they show bud. A few early Paper White 

 narcissus can be forced for early flower. Some of the 

 French grown narcissus can be brought in late this month. 



/^ARNATIONS should now be growing rapidly and while 



pinching has been resorted to up to the present time, it is 



now time to let some of the flowering shoots mature. Do not feed 



to any extent. An occasional dose of nitrate of soda in solution, 



however, will keep up good growth. 



Don't let the roses get mildewed. This is 



the time when you cannot ventilate quite 

 so freely, but you have the advantage of fire heat to keep the house 

 dry. It is good practice always to have the ventilator open even 

 though it is only a crack; this will prevent the house from getting 

 stuffy. Chrysanthemums will be finished shortly, and we should 

 endeavor to save stock plants for next year. Many make 

 the mistake of keeping these plants in a warm greenhouse over 

 winter, and in spring the cuttings are soft and sappy and do not 

 produce good stock. The plants should be kept in a very cool 

 place — a dormant fruit house or coldframe — where heavy freezing 

 weather can be kept out. Be sure the plants are properly labelled 

 before they are put away. 



CWEET peas should now be growing rapidly. Do not make 

 the error of trying to force them a little more by 



raising the temperature, nor by too frequent feeding. 



Sweet peas delight in a temperature of 45 degrees, and 

 any attempt to force them with a higher 

 temperature is ruinous. Be content with a 

 robust but rather slow growth to produce 



high grade flowers. 



Sweet 

 Peas 



DEANS can be sown a couple of times this month, I, ;, || | , 

 and the sowings made last month should now be ,//:!., 



ready for staking. Short brush, about eighteen inches 

 long, is ideal; set the sticks up alongside 

 the row. A sowing of beets and carrots 

 can be made this month right on the 



benches where the crop is to mature. Cauliflower, 



Vegetables 

 under Glass 



lettuce, and cucumber should all be sown. To keep up occasional 

 crops two sowings should be made of the cauliflower and lettuce. Of 

 cucumbers, one is sufficient. The cauliflower and lettuce are sown 

 in pans and afterward transferred to thumb pots from which they 

 are benched when large enough. The cucumbers are sown in 

 2-inch pots, one seed to a pot, and benched when large enough. 



A sowing of melons made at this time will bring the crop in at a 

 good season of the year. It is also a favorable growing season, as 

 after the plants are benched, they will have the benefit of the days 

 becoming longer. Sow the seeds in 2-inch pots and when the 

 plants are large enough transfer into 4-inch pots from which, when 

 well rooted, they are planted into hills. 



Tomato plants that were started early and are carrying a lot 

 of fruit had better have a little additional plant food which is best 

 supplied by mulching. Mix up a good rich mixture and apply a 

 couple of inches of it to each hill. This is preferable to liquid 

 feeding at this season of the year. 



ALL root crops, such as beets, carrots, chicory, celeriac, salsify, 

 turnip, rutabaga, and sea kale should now be lifted and stored 

 for the winter. Some people place them in cellars, but outside 

 trenches answer perfectly well. Bury some large packing cases 

 ^ . in which the roots can be placed (such as bulbs are 



R shipped in). The top is covered with boards and 



then some salt hay with a covering of earth is placed 

 on top of this. When severe freezing weather sets in, an additional 

 covering of leaves or litter can be used to keep out the frost. Make 

 vents through the earth so that they can be opened up in mild 

 weather. Select high ground for storing and dig trenches about six 

 feet from the boxes on each side and throw this soil toward the 

 cases so as to keep the water away. 



{CELERY must now be placed in winter quarters. Some leave 

 it where it grows, hilling it up well and covering with leaves 



or litter to keep out the frost. This I consider the best method 



r , where only small quantities are grown. Another method 



is to store in cellars, which has one disadvantage because 



the celery becomes stringy. I think the best practice for 

 large quantities of celery is to store it in trenches. The 

 idea is to select a dry spot, store the celery in a trench that 

 is deep enough so that the tops are about level with the 

 surrounding grade. Cover the plants with a few inches of 

 earth and then mound up, using leaves or salt hay in courses 

 between the earth. This will keep out the frost and insure 

 dryness. After the top is crusted by freezing, a good cover- 

 ing of leaves or litter can be applied as a further frost pro- 

 tection. When taking out the celery, always work from 

 one end. 



Cabbage is stored in a similar manner. The heads are 



placed in the trenches, upside down — the whole plant is 



lifted entire — the soil mounded up and the same protection 



given as for celery. French globe artichokes must be protected 



with care not to overdo it. 



Protection for the partly tender shrubs can be given with any available material: burlap, mats, straw, corn stalks, etc. But don' I forget the mulch! 



