150 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



December, 1914 



greens such as the retinisporas, rhododendrons, boxwood, androm- 

 eda, etc., need some little protection, but don't forget that too much 

 protection is just as great a danger as too little. Damage to most 

 Tender Trees and P^ ants °f evergreen character is caused by 

 Shrubs sudden changes, such as a' very low temper- 



ature followed by a strong sun. The best pro- 

 tection against such conditions is a few pine boughs, placed 

 about the plants, which is done by first making a hole with a crow- 

 bar and ramming the sharpened end of the bough into place. This 

 form of protection also has the advantage over any other in ap- 

 pearance. When you get a number of plants strawed up they 

 resemble a cemetery. If you have to resort to straw, however, 

 it makes an excellent protection, but be careful not to put it on 

 too thick. Dwarf plants, such as boxwood edging, can be protected 

 by placing boards over them, or laying pea brush over the plants 

 and covering this with hay or pine branches cut very short. 



A S SUGGESTED last month, all permanent borders, no matter 

 "^ what the character of the plants, should be well mulched. 

 This not only helps to protect the roots during severe weather and 

 sudden changes, but because of this yearly application of fertilizer, 

 the ground does not run down and become im- 

 poverished. This applies particularly to perennial 

 borders, fruit borders, shrubbery borders or beds, 

 the small open border surrounding specimen plants (particularly 

 evergreens), rose gardens, etc. 



Protection 

 and Feeding 



TT IS still not too late to plant anything that is perfectly hardy; 

 in fact, you can work just as long as the ground can be handled. 

 It is wisdom, however, to mulch all late plantings. And do not 

 under any circumstances leave the plants around with the roots 

 Kee o exposed during freezing weather. That is even more 



Plant'ne harmful to them than exposure to a strong sun in 



summer. 



T 



TIIS is a good time to think of preparing for the removal of 

 any big trees. They can be dug around leaving them in 

 position with a large ball of earth and allowed to freeze, after which 

 they can be handled with impunity as none of the roots will then 

 M . „. get disturbed. It is well to lay some hay over the 

 T ball of earth during mild or rainy weather, which will 



prevent the weather from cracking the soil and wash- 

 ing down. 



jDEDS or borders which were planted with bulbs should have 

 a good application of leaves after the freezing weather sets in. 

 This keeps an even temperature and prevents alternate freezing 

 Wh B lh and thawing, which sometimes causes the bulbs to 

 p. , rot. Remove the covering early in the spring or the 

 bulbs will start growth too early. 

 All very tender shrubs, such as tender roses, tender forms of 

 hydrangea, etc., should be buried. This is the best way to winter 

 tender plants, and although it is quite troublesome it is very effec- 

 tive. 



A FTER all the foliage is off the fruit trees, look them over care- 

 "^ fully for scale, and if there is the least indication of it spray the 

 trees with one of the special scale preparations like Scalicide or one 

 c , of the lime-sulphur washes now offered by many manu- 

 al y . , facturers. This should be done at once, and if attended 

 to you can positively overcome all attacks of the pest. 



CEA kale, rhubarb, asparagus and endive can all be forced at 

 this time, and while each one differs somewhat as to details 

 of culture the conditions required are very similar. The usual 

 procedure is to plant the roots in something that is retentive of 

 tj moisture, such as spent mushroom droppings and soil 



p . mixed in equal quantities. They are usually grown 

 under the benches where it is dark; the sea kale and 

 endive in pots, the rhubarb and asparagus in beds. In this way 

 they do not occupy any valuable bench space. They require fre- 

 quent watering, but do not allow the soil to get wet and soggy. 

 The asparagus and rhubarb will do well enough with just a curtain 

 of canvas or burlap hung along the bench to keep out the light. 



The sea kale and endive should have inverted flower pots placed 

 over them so that they will bleach thoroughly. The endive referred 

 to is the French endive listed in seed catalogues as Witloef chicory. 

 The French globe artichoke should be protected over the winter; 

 but be careful, for too much covering will cause rot. The best 

 plan of which we know is to place over the plants a triangular 

 support, such as a tomato trellis, and place the protection over 

 this. Corn stalks covered later with hay, leaves, or anything 

 of that nature, makes the ideal covering. Do not let this covering 

 come in contact with the plants. 



pALMS and such plants that are not in active growth during 



early winter should be watered occasionally with lime water. 



This prevents the soil from souring. Vines (such as allamanda, 



bougainvillea, etc.), which are planted in an open border, should 



In the ^ e dried °ff so that they lose their leaves or at 



Greenhouses least part ° f them - This S ives them a § ood rest > 

 but do not dry them off so that the wood shrivels. 



Now is also a good,time to look over the bulbs that have been stored 



for the winter — such as dahlias, gladiolus, etc — to be sure that 



they are all right. 



CUCCESSION sowings can be made of beans, cauliflower, beets 



and carrots, making two sowings of the beans and cauliflower 



and one of the beets and carrots, Muskmelons started now are 



Vegetables eas ^ surj J ect s to force; as the days soon begin to 



Indoors lengthen, forcing becomes easier. These should be 



sown singly in 2-inch pots; and use only the forcing 



types if you want the best results. 



V/FAKE sowings of Gypsophila elegans, schizanthus and rho- 

 dan the. These are all good flowers for cutting or pot work. 

 Carnation cuttings should be taken this month, stuck in sand. 

 Sta f Take the cuttings from healthy plants and from flower- 

 p. ing shoots, only. Calla lilies started early can be fed 



freely at this period. 



COME of the early planted lilies should now be showing bud, 

 which is time to start feeding. Do not start feeding until 

 they do show bud, or they will start into renewed growth. 



Bulb forcing is one of the most profitable and interesting and 



v . perhaps easiest way to obtain winter flowers. Commence 



J^v. now; there is an endless number of varieties that will 



give a continuous supply of flowers from now until spring. 



Roman hyacinths can be brought into the heat and forced, as can 

 the French grown narcissus which lend themselves to early forcing. 

 The Paper Whites can also be forced at this early date and freesias 

 should be fairly well advanced. In fact, they should be in bloom 

 the latter part of the month. 



Late this month, any of the Polyanthus type of narcissus can be 

 brought inside as can some of the earliest on the single tulips. 

 Always try to bring in the bulbs at the rate you can use them. 

 This will insure good flowers at all times. Better not bring inside 

 any of the double tulips until next month; also any of the large 

 trumpet types of narcissus; the Parrot, Darwin and Gesneriana 

 types of tulip should be left outside until February ist. 



A LL bulbous plants require quite a lot of water. In fact, they 

 ■*"*■ can be grown in water, so it is advisable to water them copi- 

 ously when in soil in pots; also feed freely after the buds appear, 

 using liquid manure for the purpose. All bulbs should be placed 

 w . under the benches when first brought in. This length- 



* < r" ng ens the stem but they must not be neglected and left 

 too long, or weak stems will be the result. 



Late in December, bring spirea (astilbe) into heat. It can be 

 brought into the greenhouse earlier than this, but it will not seem 

 to do so well or to flower any earlier.. 



T ILY-OF-THE-VALLEY can be forced the year round by 



*-* using cold storage pips. This flower does not force well 



until it has had sufficient rest, therefore if cold 



y-o - e- a ey stora g e roots are no t used, do not bring the pips 



all year 



into the greenhouse until late in the month. 



