192 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



January, 1915 



With the addition of the two sash hotbed, 

 the fruits, and perennial plants, a much 

 more satisfying garden is assured, as the 

 variety is greater. It is also possible by 

 using the hotbed to extend the season of 

 edible crops beginning early in the spring 

 and continuing into winter. 



The large garden space also permits the 

 possibility of having some of the vegetables 

 for winter storage. A limited amount 

 of beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, cabbage, 

 celery, may be successfully retained for 

 winter use. Then too, the increased space 

 permits of some of the vegetables being 

 "put up'' for winter use. What is more 

 pleasing than to have jars of fine home- 

 raised tomatoes, sweet corn, spinach, beans, 

 strawberries, rhubarb, and currants, for 

 table use during the winter, thereby en- 

 joying the fruits of your summer's labor ? 

 and, oh! how much finer they taste than 

 those purchased! Pickles, such as vinegar 

 pickles, sweet pickles, mustard pickles, 

 mixed pickles, and a host of other good 

 things may be enjoyed if the planning is 

 correctly done and the work properly per- 

 formed. Complete planting tables for this 

 plan will be given next month. 



The tools required for this size garden 



will of course be the same as those needed 

 for Plans I and II. More efficient work 

 will be performed if the garden line is twice 

 the length of that required in the preceding 

 plans. Provision will have to be made for 

 the hotbeds, two sash are needed, also 

 boards, planks, nails, and manure, and 

 other material for the pit. If the hotbed 

 pit is to be home constructed, then tools 

 such as a hammer, saw, and square, are 

 necessary. At least two cords of stable 

 manure are needed for a garden of this 

 size, and if the gardener is experienced, one 

 hundred pounds of a high grade commercial 

 fertilizer can be included. 



A wheeled hand planter, such as the 

 Planet Jr., Iron Age, Columbia, or Genung, 

 and a wheeled tool for cultivating, known 

 as a combination wheeled hoe, etc., would 

 be of special value in this garden. These 

 tools are not necessary, but they lessen 

 the labor so materially as to make the work 

 really enjoyable. The cost is small, being 

 from $12 to $18 for both tools, and I really 

 urge the investment. 



GETTING RESULTS 



Plans should be made so that on the 

 dates named the following vegetables will 



be ready for consumption. This would be 

 possible if the plans outlined here and in next 

 month's Garden Magazine are followed. 



April 1-30. Lettuce, radishes (from hotbed), spinach. 



May 1-15. Beets, carrots, lettuce (hotbed and garden), 

 radishes, spinach. 



May 13-3° (from hotbeds, garden, and by using a few small 

 sash as coldframes). Radishes, asparagus, beets, carrots, 

 lettuce, onions (rare ripes), rhubarb, spinach, turnips. 



June 1-15 (from hotbed and garden). Radishes, asparagus, 

 beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, onions, peas, rhubarb, 

 spinach, turnips. 



June 15-3°. All the vegetables named above and from 

 garden. Potatoes, squash (crookneck and white), swiss chard, 

 tomatoes. 



July 1-13. The vegetables named above and from garden. 

 Beans (wax and green), cabbage, carrots, celery, midseason 

 peas, strawberries. 



July 15-3°. The new vegetables ready between these dates 

 are: carrots, early sweet corn, currants, endive, kohl-rabi. 



August 1-15. The new vegetables are: cauliflower, mid- 

 season sweet corn, late peas. 



August 15-30. The new vegetables are: late cabbage, cu- 

 cumbers, potatoes. 



September I-15., The new vegetables are: late corn, 

 parsnips, late squash. 



September 15-30. Late beets, late celery, turnips. 



The hotbeds should be planned to con- 

 tinue in use for raising vegetables during 

 the fall. Lettuce, radishes, and spinach 

 can be obtained until November 15 or even 

 later if the winter is mild. 



Plans should be made to store the fol- 

 lowing vegetables for winter use: beets, 

 cabbage, carrots, celery, parsnip, potatoes, 

 squash, and turnips. 



Good Currants and 



Gooseberries for Your 



Home Garden 



By J. R. Mattern 



Pennsyl- 

 vania 



THE SMALL FRUITS GIVE INCREASING RETURNS YEAR TO YEAR, AND SHOULD BE INCLUDED 

 IN EVERY HOME GARDEN — GET THE PLANTS IN AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE IN THE SPRING 



IT IS not too much to say that goose- 

 berries and currants are among the 

 most useful and valuable of all the 

 fruits your garden can grow. Most 

 of the best jelly made is a product of the 

 skill of the kitchen artist with the fruit of 

 lowly currant bushes. A certain texture 

 or inter-cell structure of this fruit makes it 

 "jell" and likewise "jam" exceedingly well. 

 Add to your supply of currant jelly and 

 preserves plenty of gooseberries, canned 



and made into puddings and pies, and you 

 have unequaled material for giving zest 

 and deliciously flavored variety to your 

 menu, all the year round. Nor is this food 

 to be considered as froth and frills, for ex- 

 perience has shown that the human animal, 

 particularly during its growing years, 

 thrives never so well as when getting 

 its full daily ration of just this sort of 

 trimmings. 

 A planting of currant and gooseberry 



bushes should last almost as long as an 

 apple orchard. The bushes must be pruned 

 of course, and the stalks renewed from 

 the roots and crowns every three or four 

 years, but you seldom have to replant 

 the bushes entirely. Currants probably 

 yield more for the ground occupied by 

 the bushes than any other fruit, even 

 more than apples or peaches or grapes. 

 The berries of both these fruits do not 

 have to be picked and put up quickly 



