January, 1915 



THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E 



197 



into growth, spray the trees frequently 

 to insure an even run of sap, which means 

 in turn an even break of the buds. That 

 also practically assures the setting of all the 

 fruit at one time. If the trees have been 

 started in other houses than the one where 

 they are to fruit, they can remain until the 

 foliage on the grapes or peaches (whichever 

 might be the case) becomes so dense as to 

 shade the pot subjects, which must then 

 be moved to other quarters. The pot trees 

 can then be scattered around in other 

 houses. Tapping the trees when they are 

 in flower will facilitate fruit setting, and 

 the spraying should be discontinued while 

 the trees are setting. 



When the fruit has passed the stoning 

 period, give a good top dressing of manure, 

 which will not only feed at that time, but will 

 also reduce the necessity of frequently 

 repotting — something that should be 

 avoided as much as possible. Do not repot 

 except as a last resort. Feeding should be 

 practised to such an extent as to eliminate 

 the necessity of repotting. 



When growth starts, skillful pinching 

 will confine the efforts of the tree to the 

 production of fruit and the making of good 

 productive wood for subsequent seasons. 

 This pinching should consist of persistent 

 efforts so that no great reduction takes 

 place at any one time, but rather a little 

 at a time, and often. It is impossible to lay 

 down any hard, fast rule for this. 



The fruit must be thinned. A tree seems 

 to be capable of carrying just a certain 

 quantity of fruitaccordingto the conditions; 

 by reducing the number of fruits, you get 

 practically the same amount figured by bulk. 

 Roughly speaking from 40 to 60 per cent, 

 of the fruit should be removed according 

 to the tree, the variety, and the freeness 

 of the "set." 



After the fruit starts to swell, the plants 

 can be fed quite freely using a variety of 

 food, consisting of liquid manure water, soot 

 dissolved, some of the concentrated man- 

 ures, and just a little of the stimulants, such 

 as nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia. 

 Frequent spraying must be carried on until 

 the fruit has begun to show signs of ripening. 

 A dryer atmosphere must then be estab- 

 lished and the plants should not be watered 

 so freely, and the houses should be venti- 

 lated more freelv. 



A thriving plant of Cornwall nectarine in a thirteen inch 

 pot. What could be more convenient? 



Speaking gener- 

 ally these potted 

 trees should be 

 started at a low 

 temperature, say 

 40 to 45 degrees 

 nights, and the 

 temperature grad- 

 ually increased 

 until by set- 

 ting time a 

 temperatu r e 

 of 60 degrees 

 at night is 

 reached. A 

 temperature of 65 

 degrees should be 

 maintained, or as 

 near that as pos- 

 sible, during the 

 growi ng season, 

 with a gradual re- 

 duction as the fruit ripens. 



These trees are very 

 little troubled with insect 

 pests, but if they show any 

 indication of scale they 

 should be sprayed when 

 dormant with any of the 

 accepted preparations. A 

 light application of liquid 



Young peach tree 

 in a fourteen inch 

 pot. Note the rela- 

 tive size of the fruit 



The possibilities of potted fruit. Cherries and violets growing in a greenhouse only eleven fen wide 



Hale's Early peach in a thirteen inch pot 



tobacco mixtures during summer will keep 

 green fly in check. 



During the dormant period, keep the trees 

 cool and rather dry. Repot after the growing 

 season by putting the plant back in the same 

 tub or pot, merely taking off all the used soil, 

 and replacing it with fertile compost. Only 

 in exceptional conditions use a larger pot. 



As to varieties! Well, there's plenty of 

 choice, and on page 204 I enumerate those 

 I have found reliable and of good quality. 



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