26 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



September, 1915 



The Value of Vertical Farming Proved 



by results of orchard blasting with 



Red Cross 

 FARM POWDER 



These cuts, made from actual photos, show the com- 

 parative growth of pear trees from Spring of 1913 to 

 August, 1914. Bellemont Orchards, Inc., Norfolk, Va. 



ALL progressive farmers and orchardists know 

 that trees planted in blasted ground grow 

 much faster and bear fruit earlier than those 

 planted in the old way. This proves the truth of 

 IN DUG HOLE the principles of Vertical Farming, which aims to 



cultivate downward as well as to till the top soil. 

 Three years ago tree planting in blasted holes was experimental — now 

 millions of trees are set out by the Vertical Farming method every 

 Spring and Fall. 



In like manner, blasting the subsoil to increase general crop yields, now 

 regarded as experimental, will in a few years be common. 



To learn how and why Vertical Farming may double the yields of your farm get the Free Reading 

 Course in Vertical Farming by Dr. G. E. Bailey, one of the best works on soils and soil culture ever 

 published. Sent free with every request for our Farmer's Handbook No. 523 F. Write now. 



IN BLASTED GROUND 



Established 1802 



DUPONT POWDER CO. 



Wilmington, Del. 



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That they are by far the cheapest fence in the end; 

 you will freely admit after finding out about the ma- 

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© 



The catalog lells. Send for it. 



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Over 350 plain and ornamental designs to har- 

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Dept. "D" Cincinnati, Ohio 

 "The World's Greatest Iron Fence Builders" 



Vases, Settees, Lamps 

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Wire Fence, General 

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We have a man in our office who has a very interesting job. 



He receives letters from all over the world — and replies to every one of them, not with a mere printed 

 form; but with a personal letter carefully thought out. 



Some days he travels pretty much all over New York looking for the right answer to a single letter. 



This man conducts our Readers' Service Department. 



If you come across something in any of our magazines or anywhere else for that matter, about which 

 you want more information, just write him a letter. 



He'll answer it — that's his job. 



Address — 



Readers' Service Department, Doubleday, Page & Company, Garden City, L. I., N. Y. 



Early Fall in the South 



ALTHOUGH generally known as the harvest 

 month, September is the planting month for 

 the winter garden. 



Larkspur, mignonette, sweet alyssum, and other 

 annuals can be sown in the open ground where 

 they are to bloom in the early spring. 



The last of August or first of September sow in 

 coldframes seeds of perennials, such as delphinium, 

 gaillardia, platycodon, wallflower, campanula, 

 pyrethrum, snapdragon, columbine, digitalis, physo- 

 stegia, anchusa and gypsophila. These should be 

 thinned out when they have a few leaves, trans- 

 planted, and allowed to remain in the coldframes 

 throughout the winter. They need protection 

 only through the severest weather and will be ready 

 to set out in the open ground in March. 



Only use the slat or lath covers to frames before 

 winter weather sets in, and give air every day even 

 in the winter weather after the glass covers are on. 



Pansies, English daisies, forget-me-nots and 

 mignonette should be sown in the coldframe now, 

 watered, fertilized and, if protected by the glass 

 during the winter months, they will come into 

 flower in February. 



The winter-flowering violets should now be put 

 into their permanent quarters, unless they were 

 originally put into their frames in April instead of 

 being planted in the open ground. These are the 

 double purple violets, Marie Louise, and the single 

 California violet. 



Have new soil in the frames and a good mixture 

 of fertilizer well incorporated. Water thoroughly 

 and keep shaded from the September sun by the 

 lath shades until thoroughly established. 



Later on watch out for the red spider and water 

 with a strong spray. Sprinkle with tobacco dust 

 for this and other pests. 



Gather seed from flowers and vegetable gardens 

 which are worth keeping. Cut down all dying 

 vegetation and burn. 



Save the last clippings from the privet hedge. 

 Have them about six inches long and place in a 

 trench in a sloping position and cover up with 

 earth leaving out two inches of slips. Water 

 thoroughly when setting out and also during dry 

 spell. They will be rooted by spring. 



All cuttings, slips, and budding stock should be 

 gotten now and packed in sand which is in a pro- 

 tected, shady part of the garden. Keep thoroughly 

 moist until winter sets in. 



Set out strawberry plants from now on until the 

 ground is frozen. 



Celery plants should be set out in the trench 

 not later than August and should be kept thoroughly 

 watered. 



Sow spinach seeds in rows a foot apart also turnip 

 seed and kale for salad. 



Big Boston lettuce should be sown in the cold- 

 frame the end of August or the first of September 

 to be pricked out when there are two leaves and 

 transplanted six inches apart in well fertilized soil 

 in the coldframe. Keep well watered during the 

 dry months and occasionally fertilized with a little 

 nitrate of soda between the rows. 



Seed for spring cabbage should now be sown 

 in the coldframe to be set out in the open ground in 

 November. The soil should not be too rich as a 

 stocky growth is desired to withstand the winter's 

 cold. 



Cultivate thoroughly the cabbage plants to be 

 set out this month and fertilize heavily to get them 

 heading by November. 



Cut off all old canes from blackberries and rasp- 

 berries. New plants should be set out this month. 



Sow grass seed for the lawn and orchard and on 

 the farm alfalfa and crimson clover. The former 

 cannot be raised without a generous supply of lime. 



Gather at the end of the month or first of October 

 winter apples and store them in a cool cellar on 

 slatted shelves. 



Both sweet and Irish potatoes should be dug when 

 the vines die, and left in a shady place to dry several 

 days. The Irish potatoes should be spread out 

 on a wooden floor where they are to remain. 



The sweet potatoes should be spread out in a 

 warm barn or attic to sweat out thoroughly, and 

 then stored on slatted shelves in a well ventilated 

 cellar. For both kinds the temperature should 

 be kept 50 degrees throughout the winter. 



Virginia. J. M. Patterson. 



The Readers' Service will give, you suggestions for the care of live-stock 



