September, 19 15 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



39 



of 



T 1 " 



10" 



pink. Dorothy Perkins rambler roses and 

 annual quick growing vines of different 

 character. 



Six inch square hemlock or chestnut 

 posts of twelve foot lengths are used. From 

 three to four feet should be sunk in the 

 ground. These posts can sometimes be 

 obtained from a mill at lower cost than 

 from a lumber yard, and need not be 

 "dressed." It will add to their durability 

 to char the butts before sinking, but 

 a good coat of paint, allowed to 

 thoroughly, is an easier solution. 



For the caps, 

 a piece 

 white 

 pine, cut square, 

 serves for the 

 top member be- 

 low which is an 

 inch ogee mould- 

 ing, mitred. 

 The neck 

 moulding, 



placed about if " below the ogee can be a 

 half round or ogee of \" stock. 



The trellis proper, of white pine, con- 

 sists of cap board of i" x 6" pine, with 

 front and back facers of i" x 4", and slats 

 of 1" x 2" material, spaced 5" on centres, 

 and the sill and lower facers which are the 

 reverse of the top members. 



The back facers, top and bottom, form 

 nailing ground for the upright slats; the 

 front facers are simply for finish. Should 

 rain water collect on the sill, a few holes 

 at intervals will suffice for drainage. 



The hood is framed in 2" x 3" white pine, 

 three rafters on each side are pitched at 45 

 degrees. Four rafters 

 would be unnecessarily 

 heavy for framing, but, 

 being more pleasing to 

 the eye, are suggested 

 by the use of fake 

 heads. Spruce lath 

 carries the cedar 

 shingles which are 

 given five inches, or 

 more, to the weather. 



A six-inch board laid 



edgewise across the head of the posts forms 

 a support for the rafters. The ridge is 

 capped by a 1" x 3" white pine lapped by 

 a 1" x 4" of the same stock. 



At least two coats of good paint should 

 be applied everywhere except the shingles, 



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ELEVATIOWAtfD CH055 

 ^ECTIOrse OF GARDEN GATE 



which may be stained if desired, though the 

 natural color when weathered is attractive. 



Paint or Stain? 



HAVING built such a garden fence and 

 gate, made as Mr. Rose has indicated 

 in his designs and photographs, the question 

 arises as to the best way of finishing it. 

 Shall it be stained or painted? 



The first consideration that would affect 

 the choice is the character of the house for 



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 ISOMETRIC DRAWING • ffar A Pri hrmn 

 SHOWING DETAI L OF * S a § arde T n , bo ^ 

 cACCH CONSTRUCTION dai T- . lf t. ne 



house is white 

 painted, or of Colonial type, 

 there is no doubt that the 

 only kind of finish for a trellis 

 is white paint. If, on the 

 other hand, the house is a 

 stained shingle building, a 

 stained fence and gate would 

 be the most harmonious acces- 

 ories. 



It may be, however, that neither of these 

 descriptions fits the type of building which 

 is nearby, in which case the choice becomes 

 a bit more difficult. If the house is stucco, 

 with dark woodwork as trim — a modifica- 

 of the English cottage type — the 

 stained fence will probably be bet- 

 ter. If the house is of brick or of 

 stone, with white painted trim, a 

 painted fence is our choice. Stain- 

 ing is a very simple process that is 

 accomplished by one application of 

 a penetrating stain, such as can 

 be found in excellent quality ready 

 mixed in any community. This will 

 practically never need renewal. 



Nevertheless, the necessity of har- 

 monizing the fence with near by build- 

 ings is a greater one, and if these 

 call for a white painted structure, we 

 shall have to face the necessity of the 

 more elaborate painting process and 

 also the labor of repainting every 





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three or four years. If the vines are not 

 entirely too heavy — and they should not 

 be if the best value of the trellis as an 

 architectural feature is to be preserved — 

 they may be disengaged from the wood 

 work and laid back against proper sup- 

 ports during late fall and early spring 

 months, when the vines are dormant. 



As to the painting itself, there is nothing 

 better than the combination of pure white 

 lead or zinc and linseed oil, which have 

 been the bases of the best paints for years. 

 This can be bought ready mixed or more 

 easily bought in quantities separately and 

 mixed as needed. It should be remembered 

 that if the woodwork is rather rough in 

 surface a thin paint will be the more easily 

 applied, even if three coats are needed. If 

 the woodwork is smooth, the paint may 

 be applied more quickly and two coats will 

 probably suffice. If a dead white finish is 

 desired, an excess of turpentine over linseed 

 oil could be mixed in the last coat. 



