76 



THE GARDEN 



A G A Z I N E 



October, 1915 



3. Minnie Hume. White perianth, pale yellow cup. 



Very cheap. 



4. Barri conspicuus. Perianth soft yellow, cup 



yellow edged bright orange scarlet. Very 

 cheap. 



5. Poeticus Elmira. White perianth, cup light 



yellow margined deep red. 



6. Poeticus recurva. Pheasant's eye. White 



perianth, cup yellow edged scarlet. Very 

 cheap. 



In addition to these lists we must not omit Van 

 Sion, the old-fashioned double yellow daffodil; 

 Narcissus alba plena odorata, the double white 

 narcissus resembling a gardenia in its snowy white- 

 ness; and the Poetaz hybrids, fragrant, short- 

 cupped, yellow or white, bearing from three to six 

 flowers on one stem. 



To select a color scheme of tulips for the formal 

 garden is a simpler task than to choose the daffodils. 

 The single ones are more graceful in form and habit 

 than the double. Of the latter we will include two, 

 however. 



Early Flowering Tulips, Double. Numbers 

 refer to relative time of bloom. 



3. Yellow Rose. Deep yellow, large and fragrant. 

 5. Murillo. Rose pink edged white. 



Early Flowering Tulips, Single. 



1. Duke of Albany. Rose with white stripe. 



1. La Riante. Rosy pink, tipped white. 



1. Princess Wilhelmina. Deep pink, white flush. 



2. Queen of the Netherlands. Pale rose flushed 



white. 

 2. Queen of the Whites. Pure white, pointed 



petals. 

 2. Chrysolora. Clear golden yellow. 



2. Wouverman. Rich dark purple. 



3. Eleanora. Purple violet, edged white. 



3. Pink Beauty. Vivid cherry rose striped white. 



4. Rose Luisante. Brilliant deep rose pink. 

 4. White Swan. Pure white oval flower. 



The prices per hundred for these tulips range 

 from $2.50 to $6.00. For the sake of brevity, 

 though the catalogues make a distinction, we will 

 list together the 



May-Flowering or Cottage, and the Darwin 

 Tulips 



1. Moonlight. Soft luminous yellow, oval flower. 



2. Inglescombe Pink. Soft rosy pink, salmon 



flush. 

 2. Mattia. Clear carmine rose, blue base. 

 2. Rose Tendre. Rose pink flushed pale rose. 

 2. Suzon. Buff rose shading to blush. 

 2. Madame Krelage. Bright lilac rose, margined 



pale silvery rose. 

 2. Gryphus. Violet purple with white base marked 



blue. 



2. Erguste. Pale dull violet of even tone. 



3. Picotee. White margined rose. 

 3. Clara Butt. Clear old rose pink. 

 3. La Tulipe Noire. Black maroon. 



3. Gudin. Lilac edged creamy white. 



4. Glare of the Garden. Crimson red with black 



centre. 



4. The Fawn. Rosy fawn, changing to cream, 



flushed blush rose. 



5. Primrose Beauty. Pale primrose changing to 



cream. 



These latter cost more than the early tulips but 

 are worth the difference in price. The cheapest are 

 Picotee at $2 and Clara Butt at $3 a hundred, 

 while La Tulipe Noire is the most expensive on the 

 list at $15. I usually plant them in groups of from 

 ten to twenty-five of a kind, getting fewer of the 

 more expensive sorts. 



Of early tulips, the deep vermilion Dusart con- 

 trasts well with Queen of the Whites. Next comes 

 Kohinoor and then the Darwin King Harold, both 

 of excellent rich red. 



SPECIALTY EFFECTS 



Not quite so showy but nevertheless 

 fascinating to the real garden-lover in a 

 more subtle way than those clear masses of 

 color just described are some of the smaller 

 bulbs. 



A tiny strip of ground between the walk 

 and the house would be an ideal place for 

 a miniature border of small flowers — 



yellow winter aconite, snowdrops, scillas, 

 and checkered fritillaries. In such a place 

 their frail charm would not be lost. At- 

 tractive combinations suggested are deep 

 purple crocus with blue scillas, blue grape 

 hyacinths with white fritillaries, and white 

 ones with pale pink creeping phlox. Purple 

 and porcelain blue hyacinths could be com- 

 bined with the dainty dwarf Narcissus 

 cyclamineus major — the Yellow hoop petti- 

 coat variety, Bulbocodium conspicuus — and 

 the small sweet scented jonquil. Succeed- 

 ing these could be the Spanish iris — blue, 

 white, and yellow, — the mixed varieties 

 costing only sixty cents a hundred. These 

 could be followed by a few of the choice 

 lilies like regale (myriophyllum) and Sar- 

 gentiae, and the pale lavender autumn 

 crocus. 



For bulbs of unusual color the Rem- 

 brandt tulips, striped and flaked with every 

 variety of maroon, lilac, rose, creamy white, 

 deep purple violet and palest green form an 

 attractive combination with soft masses of 

 pale blue Anchusa. 



The breeder tulips comprise another 

 gamut of tones — bronze, mahogany, apricot, 

 old gold, coffee brown, silvery gray, purple, 

 lilac, and heliotrope — which would be a 

 good combination with clear pale yellow 

 Cottage tulips or the very pale yellow Iris 

 flavescens. 



To continue the odd coloring, orange 

 lilies, chalcedonicum and elegans in June 

 and July, combined with lavender funkias, 

 lavender-blue Campanula persicifolia, and 

 the dull gray and blue of Veronica incana, 

 should be followed in August by tiger lilies 

 and dull blue monkshood. 



Planting Evergreens for Winter Color 



FOR the winter aspect of the gar- 

 den evergreen trees have a value 

 that is individual and unassail- 

 able. When the deciduous trees 

 and shrubs are bare of leafage the rich 

 masses of the pines, firs, etc., are doubly 

 welcomed. And evergreens can be planted 

 in fall and winter. 



The question of transplanting is import- 

 ant, but prevailing weather conditions are 

 more to be considered than the time of the 

 year. Nurserymen regard the months of 

 August, September and October as the ideal 

 time for this work on account of the dull, 

 cloudy weather that frequently prevails 

 during this period. In the spring, an ap- 

 parently favorable time is apt to be followed 

 by one of prolonged heat and drouth, ac- 

 companied by dry, withering winds, than 

 which nothing is more fatal to newly planted 

 evergreens. 



In the work of planting out, perhaps the 

 greatest injury is done when the roots are 

 exposed to the air, drying quickly and 

 shriveling. Many subsequent failures are 

 directly traceable to neglect at this time. 



By James McLaughlin, Ohio 



Stock ranging from one to four years old 

 and varying in height from fifteen inches 

 to three feet, is the best to plant out for 

 ornamental purposes. Trees with shallow 

 root formations like the spruces, even if 

 twenty-five to thirty feet in height, can be 

 moved with comparative safety in dull, 

 cloudy weather. 



Evergreen hedges of spruce or pine are 

 not only extremely ornamental but highly 

 useful. Attaining a goodly height and 

 growing close and thickly, they are inval- 

 uable as windbreaks, supplying protection 

 throughout the entire year, and providing 

 a fence that beautifies as well as serves. 



Chief among the many new uses to 

 which the dwarf evergreens are being put, 

 is the filling of porch and window boxes 

 with them in the fall when the summer 

 plants are killed by the frost. 



Planted as single specimens upon the 

 lawn with plenty of room for full develop- 

 ment, many types of the evergreens are 

 seen at their best. For this purpose, shape- 

 liness and color are the chief requisites, 

 although soil must be taken into consider- 



ation. As a rule the pines do not attain 

 their best perfection if planted in compact, 

 clay soil, nor do they do well in shallow 

 ground, because of the taproot. Light 

 sandy soils with a good depth, even if rather 

 dry, are best suited to their needs. The 

 shallow-rooted spruces, are well adapted 

 to cool and moist situations, although they 

 will endure much drought. The cedars 

 should be chosen for low, wet soils, as they 

 are entirely indifferent to moisture condi- 

 tions. Exotics should be given scant use 

 until their adaptation is amply demon- 

 strated, although certain Chinese and 

 Japanese firs have done admirably. 



The different species vary in shade- 

 enduring qualities, and this fact should be 

 given some thought when selecting the 

 young evergreens for the purpose of group- 

 ing. The yews and firs are the most 

 tolerant of shade, followed by the hemlocks, 

 junipers and arborvitaes. 



The many forms of the Japan cypress 

 are valuable because of their low-growing 

 tendencies which makes them very suitable 

 for formal garden work. 



