October, 1905 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



107 



them successfully through the first winter by 

 wrapping the bark with straw. Put rye 

 straw an inch deep around them and wrap 

 spirally with string. 



Deciduous Shrubs. — Deciduous shrubs are 

 safe to plant in the fall, and even in case they 

 do winter kill, their quick recovery makes it 

 of no importance. Such shrubs as althea, 

 Japan Judas, Forsythia viridissima and Cali- 

 fornia privet are liable to winter killing, 

 especially if they make a soft, late growth, 

 but that need not deter one from planting in 

 the fall. Such winter killing is probably 

 caused by a very sudden fall in temperature 

 after a late, warm autumn, which has pre- 

 vented the wood from ripening. 



Evergreens. — Evergreen trees with a suf- 

 ficient ball of earth can be planted in October 

 and November if well mulched to keep out 

 frost for a width of three feet outside the 

 roots, and ten inches deep, but evergreens 

 without a ball of earth should not be planted 

 in October and November. August and 

 September are excellent months for ever- 

 greens. 



The broad-leaved evergreen shrubs, such 

 as rhododendron, kalmia, Azalea amcena and 

 the Leucotha? Catesbcci, must have a big ball 

 of earth or they cannot be planted safely in 

 the autumn. However, some broad-leaved 

 evergreens had better not be planted until 

 spring. Naturally, holly that does not keep 

 a ball of earth is best planted in the spring 

 and should have all the leaves picked off. 



Vines. — All vines may be planted in the fall. 

 If they die back so much the better, as it is 

 best for vines to start from the roots. 



Fruits. — The stone fruits, such as plum and 

 peach, are generally considered best planted 

 in the spring, because if fall planted the small 

 twigs dry out, but this rarely happens more 

 than when the trees are properly pruned. 



All the small fruits may be fall planted — 

 currants, gooseberries, raspberries, black- 

 berries and grapes. August planting of 

 strawberries will give a good crop the follow- 

 ing June. Strawberries can be planted in 

 the fall, but will not yield a good crop until 

 the second spring thereafter. 



HOW TO PREPARE THE GROUND FOR PLANTING 



Consider your soil and decide whether you 

 will give it any preparation or not. If the 

 soil is such that trees of the kind you want 

 will grow vigorously in it, and reach old 

 age without starvation, and will provide the 

 required amount of moisture to avoid drought, 

 no preparation is needed. 



If, on the other hand, the soil is poor and 

 dry, either naturally or as a result of grading, 

 there are two ways of preparing it: first, by 

 covering the soil with manure and fertilizer; 

 and second, by carting away the present soil 

 and bringing in new Rarely, however, is 

 carting soil necessary, The two or three 

 cubic yards of good soil which are usually 

 carted to replace bad soil are at best but a 

 starter. A tree a foot in diameter spreads 

 twenty-five feet or more; it costs too much 

 to cart enough soil for such a tree. Where 

 the top soil is only a foot or a foot and a half 

 deep, and is underlaid by porous sand or 

 gravel, it is best to put in a depth of two and 



^HHHI 



115. In the case of snrubs that bioom in early spring beiore the leaves, there is an extra reason for fall 

 planting, since you may miss their color for a season if you plant in spring. Golden Bell or Forsythia, 

 the best early-blooming, yellow-flowered shrub, should always have an evergreen bacKground 



a half feet of good soil, as it gives more moist- 

 ure and food for the tree. If you can afford 

 to do that for a diameter of six feet it is well, 

 but, of course, the tree as it reaches maturity 



would like a wider supply. If the subsoil is; 

 hard pan or clay loam, perhaps the only prep- 

 aration needed is to take it up and loosen it to 

 a depth of two feet and a diameter of six feet. 



116. The glorious Oregon or large-leaved maple (Acer macrophylW) , with leaves often a foot across. Not hardy 

 north of New YorK. A perfect specimen at Dosoris, Long Island, has windbreaK protection 



