112 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



October, 1905 



122. A pin oak in late September; its ripened 

 leaves may now be stripped. The fastest growing oaK. 

 About 12-ft. high. 2K in. in diam.; worth $1.50 



123. A white oak ready for fall planting. The 

 upland type of roots as contrasted with the swamp 

 type, of which the pin oak is an example 



124. A Norway maple about 14-ft. high, 2 J4 in. in 

 diam.; worth $1.50. Low-branched, symmetrical, 

 stocky. A type of root system easily transplanted 



severe, the temperature rarely going many 

 degrees below trie freezing point. 



In a general way, the fall-planting season 

 in the South is later than that of the North. 

 The trees and shrubs make a later growth, 



125. The wrong place to cut — between the buds. 

 The twig will die and leave a stub. Reduce the top 

 of a hardwood tree 60 to 80 per cent. 



and it may be well into November sometimes 

 before the condition of growth is such that 

 the tree can safely be disturbed. 



Planting in the South is generally done 

 from November to March, the dormant 



period of the trees, and my preference is for 

 early planting. I had rather do the work in 

 October, even, than wait until March. All 

 the arguments for fall planting in the East 

 hold good, too, in the South, with this one 

 having still greater weight — by fall planting 

 there is time for the trees to become estab- 

 lished before the warmth of spring. Plant- 

 ing later than March is running unreasonable 

 risk. Late planting means that the drying 

 sun will beat down and rapidly dry out, not 

 only the ground but the very moisture from 

 the plant itself. In the fall the really hot sun 

 only endures for a few hours. The evenings 

 and nights are cool, and generally much dew 

 falls. Later on, as the winter arrives, even 

 should you have frost, it seems as if the 

 moisture which had fallen merely arose and 

 stood erect for the sun to drive it back again 

 into the ground; the cycle to be repeated the 

 next day. 



I well remember, one November, planting 

 some 200 street trees (maples), four inches in 

 diameter, without a single loss — not even 

 one questionable case — for all throve abun- 

 dantly. 



Of course the planting must be done 

 properly. The soil must be there; climate 



will not do all. When you are going to plant, 

 prepare the ground thoroughly. Don't make 

 small holes, and then tread in the roots or 

 merely push them under the soil. If your 

 roots across the bole of the tree measure three 





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126. The branch on the man's left arm should 

 be cut below his shoulder and the cluster of short 

 twigs should be thinned out to two or three 



feet, make a hole six feet wide and three feet 

 deep. 



Why plant in the fall ? Because your trees 

 are in position, ready to take up work in 

 spring at the earliest possible moment; and 



127. Let the tree 

 did before. Do 



stand as deep as it 128. Use fine earth. Pack with a stick 

 n't curl the roots having a rounded, not square, end 



129. Now put on the lumps and sod and 

 firm them with the packing stick 



130. Now tramp and level. Allow three 

 inches for settling. All done but mulching 



