46 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



September, 1917 



for want of water, especially after flowering. 

 The small flowering Iris such as the Spanish, 

 English, and French types are certainly 

 most beautiful when used in masses. The 

 Mourning Iris (I. Susiana) will respond to 

 the good drainage conditions of the rock garden, 

 and equally because of the steep grades and un- 

 usually good drainage such conditions afford, 

 a number of so-called half hardy bulbs will 

 find congenial quarters. These bulbs decay 

 generally because of excessive moisture caused 

 by the constant changes in our winter weather 

 and, while that condition cannot be changed, 

 its effect can be removed by proper mulching 

 after the ground is once frozen and then in 

 case of thawing, the excess of water drains 

 away quickly. 



Where the proper protection is applied and 

 the grade is favorable, such bulbs as Mont- 

 bretia, Bulbocodium, Chionodoxa, Colchi- 

 cum, and Camassia may be used. 



Growing Indoors for Early Bloom 



ONE of the greatest assets of the bulb is its 

 adaptability to house culture. There 

 are two distinct methods; (a) in pots or pans 

 with earth and (b) using water in glasses, etc. 

 Either will give results; but the latter method 

 utterly destroys the bulb which must be 

 thrown away. My preference is for the former 

 as it looks more natural. 



For forcing in the house, plant the bulbs just 

 as soon as they can be secured. They may 

 then be placed in a cool cellar, or (preferably) 

 buried out of doors until they make root. 

 The bulbs, however, are hard to get at when 

 wanted during winter, especially during 

 snowy or heavy freezing weather; but when 

 placed in the cellar they must be kept watered 

 as all bulbs delight in an abundance of 

 moisture. When the pots are filled with roots, 

 it is safe to start forcing them as convenient. 



The water method is essentially the same. 

 Small glasses, holding one bulb, may be used; 

 but better, still use large bowls, about half 

 filling them with clean white pebbles and a 

 little broken charcoal to keep the water sweet. 

 The roots cling to these white pebbles, and will 

 give the bulbs support enough to keep them 

 upright. The bowls or glasses are then put 

 away in a dark, cool cellar until they have 

 made sufficient roots. It is not necessary to 

 change the water, but keep it filled up to a 

 level, just at the bottom of the bulbs. When 

 the water discolors and it is desirable to 

 change it for sanitary reasons, the new water 

 should be of the same temperature as that 

 removed. 



All Hyacinths may be forced in this man- 



ner. Though the Dutch Hyacinth is most 

 commonly used yet the Roman, Italian, and 

 Miniature types are worth while and are 

 quicker. Of the Narcissus family the chaste, 

 fragrant, Paper-white Narcissus is perhaps the 

 best, but any of the single or double Polyan- 

 thus or Jonquil types may be used. Early 

 flowering Tulips are also easy for forcing in the 



Here's a trick to be remembered in the spring. Covering 

 bulbs that are pushing up flowers before the leaf growth is 

 made in order to "draw" the leaves 



house. Any of the "forcing varieties" which 

 are simply extra early varieties, can be used 

 for the dwelling. 



The late flowering Tulips, such as the 

 Parrots and the Darwins, can be forced in the 

 house but not to bloom early; it is not safe to 

 start the late flowering types before the middle 

 of February. 



Freesias will also do well in the house. 

 These bulbs are not hardy and, planted in 

 August or September, may be placed outside 

 and covered with about two inches of ashes 

 until the growth shows through. They may 

 then be removed to a cellar which is not too 

 dark because since growth has started it is not 

 advisable to stop it entirely. These bulbs will 

 not force well in water. The bulbs may be 

 saved from year to year, in fact the stock can 

 be increased by saving the young bulbs which 

 form freely. This is not true of other forcing 

 bulbs which once forced (in soil) are of no 

 further value for this purpose. They may be 



used for outside planting but not for forcing 

 again. Crocus and Spanish Iris can also be 

 forced in the house but neither will endure 

 much heat. A cool window or the west side of 

 a house where they get some sunlight will best 

 suit. They must not be forced until they 

 are thoroughly rooted. These two con- 

 ditions cause practically all of the trouble that 

 folks have in forcing these two bulbs — not 

 waiting until the bulbs are substantially 

 rooted or forcing them "too fast" — which 

 means in too warm a place. 



Garden Planting in General 



CY)R planting in border shrubberies and 

 A such like the hardy bulbs of all kinds are 

 used according to the planter's fancy. In the 

 perennial border or for mixing with other 

 flowers of any kind Hyacinths are very use- 

 ful. The beautiful Summer Hyacinth (Hya- 

 cinthus or Galtonia candicans) is one of the 

 best bulbs we have, flowering in July and 

 August its tall spikes of drooping white flowers 

 are extremely showy. The Darwin, Gesner- 

 iana, late flowering Parrot, and both double 

 and single early flowering Tulips are all 

 available and indeed the problem is simply one 

 of selecting those that please one's fancy and 

 are suited for the conditions. The Daffodils 

 afford some of the very best spring flowers and 

 any place will be livened up with the cheerful 

 yellow and white of these old garden favorites. 



Lilies offer us opportunities that we should 

 not neglect to seize. Some of the most beau- 

 tiful flowers of the garden are in the Lily 

 family and the majority of them are hardy if 

 planted about one foot deep on a little bed of 

 sand made to carry off superfluous water until 

 the bulb gets rooted. The various Japanese 

 Lilies, especially the attractive Orange Lily 

 are fine subjects for the garden. Lilium 

 auratum with its beautiful white with crimson 

 spots and gold band; Lilium Kiraetzeri, an 

 extremely large flowering white lily; Lilium 

 candidum the Madonna Lily, small but 

 extremely prolific; Lilium Brownii, and the 

 beautiful tall Lilium Henryi of an attractive 

 yellow. 



Crown Imperials are unusual looking plants 

 and could with advantage be used more in 

 garden settings. This plant has large spikes of 

 drooping crimson flowers that are borne in a 

 terminal crown on a stem often two inches in 

 length. Plant about nine inches deep and 

 mound up the earth to turn water. Fritillaria, 

 Colchicum, Scilla, Snowdrop, Trillium, Allium, 

 and Lily-of-the-valley are all valuable. The 

 management of bulbs in the greenhouse is dis- 

 cussed on another page. 



Massed plantings before shrubs 



Scattered plantings in rockery, etc. 



