194 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



January, 1918 



world of salads comparable to this "witloof 

 chicory," the little trouble of growing it is 

 repaid a thousand-fold. 



TN EXPLANATION of the strawberry 

 *■ beds, I may say that the original 

 planting is as shown in the first chart. These 

 are the plants that bore last summer, 

 and will bear next year's crop also. The 

 spaces given over to early peas, followed by 

 lettuce and winter beets, and to early carrots, 

 turnips and lettuce followed by a late planting 

 of early peas, also radishes, drilled in in the 

 small spaces, as desired, will be planted with 

 runner plants taken from the old plants late 



in October. These spaces will, therefore, 

 become the strawberry beds of the summer 

 of 1918, while the present beds will be des- 

 troyed that year; ordinarily they would be 

 kept but two years. 



THE asparagus bed is too recently planted 

 to enter into consideration yet. When 

 it comes into bearing, however, it will add 

 materially to the winter as well as summer 

 larder; for 200 roots will furnish on an average 

 of 75 shoots daily, over a period of about 

 two weeks. As a bunch of asparagus usually 

 numbers from 30 to 40 shoots— sometimes 

 not half this — it is obvious that the yield of 



the bed will be abundant to meet the family 

 requirements. 



A S TO the layout of this garden, it may not 

 f*- be amiss to call attention to the fact that, 

 in times of peace it lends itself perfectly to 

 as little or as much vegetable gardening as 

 its owner may wish to carry on. The central 

 portion, backed by the arbor, lies directly 

 opposite a long porch, upon which the principal 

 rooms of the house open. Here are the 

 potatoes; and here they will be as long as the 

 war lasts. But it is intended that this portion 

 shall ordinarily be lawn, with the dwarf apple 

 trees lining it up on either side. 



Planting Key. The vegetables are numbered straight through in the order of their planting as shown on the four charts on 

 previous pages; second and third sowings of a variety are indicated by small indices, as "7 2 ", the second sowing of Golden Bantam corn, 

 "6 3 ", the third sowing of Detroit Dark Red Beets, etc. 



First planting made when the buds begin to swell 



French Sorrel 3 rows 15 in. apart — 2 in. apart in row 



This is a perennial, and will come every year' I ounce of seed 



Cabbage (early) I row 18 in. to next vegetable row 



All-head Early Plants 18 in. apart — I pk. seed 



Onions 4 rows 12 in. apart — 2 in. apart in row 



Southport Yellow Globe \ ounce seed 



Parsnip 39 rows 15 in. apart — 6 in. apart in row 



Hollow Crown I packet seed 



Salsify 4 rows 15 in. apart — 3 in. apart in row 



Sandwich Island Mammoth I 02. seed 



Beets (early) 1 row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



Detroit Dark Red 1 oz. seed for total plantings 



Corn (early) 1 row 24 in. allowance — 12 in. apart in row 



Golden Bantam \ pint for total plantings 



Peas 3 rows 15 in. apart — 4 in. apart in row 



Blue Bantam. This variety is better for sparse sowing — I qt. seed 

 Carrots (early) 1 row 15 in. apart — 6 in. apart in row 



Rubicon Half Long 1 packet seed 



Turnip I row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



Purple-top White Globe I packet seed 



Kohl Rabi I row 18 in. allowance — 12 in. apart in row 



White Vienna 1 packet seed 



Carrot (late) 1 row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



St. VaUry I packet seed 



Lettuce I row 15 in. allowance — 8 in. apart in row 



All Seasons 1 packet 



French Endive I row 15 in. allowance — IO m - apart in row 



Witloof Chicory 1 packet 



Second planting, to be planted when the pome fruits are in bloom 



Corn 2 rows 24 in. apart — 12 in. apart in row 



Country Gentleman J pint seed 



Beets I row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



Corn I row 24 in. allowance — 1 2 in. apart in row 



Golden Bantam Seed as above 



Summer Squash 4 hills 4 ft. apart each way 



Giant Crookneck I packet seed 



Corn 1 row 24m. allowance — 12 in. apart in row 



Black Mexican 1 packet 



Beans (pole) I row 24 in. allowance — 3 feet apart in row 



Kentucky Wonder I packet 



Okra I long row 18 in. allowance — 18 in. apart in row 



Long Pod 1 packet 



Potatoes 24 rows. 



Vermont Gold Coin 

 Lettuce 1 row. . . 



All Seasons 



.24 in. apart — 18 in. apart m row 

 I peck, to be cut to eyes for seed 



.15 in. allowance — 8 in. apart in row 

 Seed as above 



Third planting, to be planted after June first, when ground is thoroughly warm 



;i. Lima Beans 3 rows 4 ft. apart — 4 ft. apart in row 



Giant Podded I packet seed 



Corn 2 rows 24 in. apart — 12 in. apart in row 



Black Mexican I packet 



Winter Squash 2 hills 8 ft. apart, in hills with No. 17 



Hubbard I packet seed 



Tomatoes 3 rows 4 ft. apart — 3 ft. apart in row 



Bonny Best I packet seed 



Tomato .1 row 3 ft. allowance — 3 ft. apart in row 



Cherry Currant — useful for salads and preserving. I packet seed 

 Eggplant I row 24 in. allowance — 2 ft. apart in row 



Black Beauty 1 packet seed 



Cucumber 6 hills 5 ft. allowance — 40 i 



Long green 1 packet seed 



Peppers 2 ft. allowance — 2 ft. 



Sweet Upright I packet seed 



Cauliflower 1 row 2 ft. allowance — 18 in 



Danish Dry Weather 1 packet 



'7 



hes apart in row 



apart in row 



apart m row 



Succession planting, to be made about July first 



Rutabagas I row 2 ft. allowance — 8 in. apart in row 



Imperial Hardy 1 packet seed 



Lettuce I row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



Eclipse Cos (Romaine) I packet seed 



Beets (winter) 1 row 15 in. allowance — 6 in. apart in row 



Long Smooth I packet seed 



Cabbage (winter) I row 2 ft. allowance — 2 ft. apart in row 



Danish Ballhead 1 packet seed 



To be planted July 15. 6. 3 Beets — I row; 7. 

 To be planted August 1. 8. 2 Peas — 4 rows; 30, 



Corn — 1 row; 30. 2 Lettuce — I row. 



Lettuce — I row. 



Plants of cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant should be started indoors in March, or 

 February, and thus be ready for setting out at the dates indicated. It is usually necessary to 

 raise one's own plants in order to secure the varieties, as few of these are grown by dealers. The 

 dealer confines himself usually to the popular market kinds, while these are selected for special 

 quality, for the home garden. 



Note. The varieties named in this key are a record of those actually used last year in working up the data for this article. Individual 

 preferences and other considerations will naturally lead to changes according to circumstances. {See "Your Seed Order" on page 197) 



Planning for Fruit Hlxis Tear and After 



M. G. KAIM5 



NIew York 



[Editor's Note: Years ago every home garden had at least a "few berry bushes." And it was a good old custom that led our grandfathers to 

 plant apples the while our grandmothers made jam and preserves. Surely something of the real meaning of a garden has gone put of our lives in 

 these recent days when we depend on the commercial orchardist in a far off state, whose first element of merit in a fruit is its _ shipping 

 resistance — developed at the cost of intrinsic qualities like flavor, aroma, tenderness and juiciness. We can plant some fruits _ without in the least 

 sacrificing the vegetables or flowers — and by the way, what's prettier than a fruit tree in blossom? Fresh fruits fill a need in our daily food re- 

 quirements that nothing else supplies, and moreover, at this time it is patriotic to plant permanent food crops, nuts, berries, and such like, as well as 

 cabbages and. potatoes. The big problem before us this year is food production — distribution and conservation are being ably_ looked after; but pro- 

 duction is unorganized and it is in that direction that the individual home gardener can make his influence felt in contributing to the nation s 

 need. Make each home garden as nearly complete as possible. Plant fruits, fruits and more fruits!] 



WHEN I see a garden without fruit I 

 recall the face of a lady I once met. 

 It wore a constant look of blank 

 surprise. At first I couldn't make 

 out what gave her that strange expression 

 but after some surreptitious scouting I dis- 

 covered that she had no eyebrows! A gar- 

 den without fruit is equally blank. If you 

 have newly moved to the country or the 

 suburbs you may not have thought of put- 

 ting fruit plants into your garden because 



you have never learned what really good 

 fruit is — that is home grown, fully ripened, 

 and of "quality" varieties that don't get 

 into the stores. Maybe you still have 

 the allusion that fruit is "hard to grow," 

 that there's a constant and losing fight against 

 bugs and diseases or that too much space is 

 required for the normal development of the 

 plants — to say nothing of time — and that 

 your little plot may be more profitably de- 

 voted to vegetables. 



What the Small Space May Produce 



SUPPOSE, we admit, that there isn't 

 room for "tree" fruits. Still enough 

 "small" fruits to supply the family may be 

 grown in an ordinary suburban backyard and 

 yet leave space for a goodly selection and 

 quantity of vegetables. Since a currant or a 

 gooseberry bush in full bearing and ordinarily 

 well managed will yield from four to eight 

 quarts, or even more, every year, it is easy to 

 see that half a dozen of each should furnish 



