24 
smaller-sized pot than they have been in, one 
in which you can just get the roots com- 
fortably. Give them a thorough watering, 
and place them in a deep coldframe. Here 
they may be left until late in the fall, so long 
as they are protected from frosts. In Octo- 
ber transfer the plants to the house. In 
January they will need a shift into the larger 
pots in which they are to bloom. 
During the midwinter months give only 
a small amount of water. As they grow, 
pinch out the shoots, in order to get a well 
shaaped plant; lso take out any weak shoots 
THE GARDE IN MUAG AZINE 
the foliage is tender, and is easily injured by 
fumigation with tobacco stems. The bloom- 
ing season is prolonged by giving the plants 
a slight shade. 
THE ORCHID-LIKE CALCEOLARIAS 
The showiest herbaceous plants in the 
cool greenhouse during March and April are 
the calceolarias and cinerarias. A house 
with a night temperature of 45° is none too 
cool, and then you must put your calceolarias 
in the coolest end. 
The flowers of the calceolarias are yellow, 
The Chinese or mollis azalea (A. Sinensis); easily forced for Christmas. Flowers yellow, orange, or pink 
which may start. Discontinue stopping the 
branches in February, as the flower buds 
commence to form. 
The appearance of the plant will be greatly 
improved if trained to a stake. ‘This must 
be done before the wood hardens, which it 
does quite rapidly. 
As soon as the plants are well established 
in their flowering pots apply manure water 
and keep this up until the flowering time. 
The red spider and the aphides will surely 
bother. Syringing the plants with one of 
the tobacco extracts which has been diluted 
with water will be the best preventive, as 
with brown spots, and in form remind one 
very much of the wild lady’s slipper orchid. 
The leaves are large and coarse, dark green, 
and the plants from one to two feet high. 
HIGH-GRADE CINERARIAS 
The cinerarias grow about two feet high, 
have large, coarse, dark green leaves, and 
bear immense flat clusters of daisy-like 
flowers, which are either blue, red or white, 
or have white centres edged with various 
shades of blue or red. The secret of success 
in growing these plants is to keep them cool. 
In order to have flowers during March, the 
AvGcusT, 1906 
seeds are sown in July, and the earlier, the 
better. The seed soil must be very fine, as 
the seeds are very small. Just sprinkle them 
on the surface of the soil, and cover the seed 
pan with a piece of glass until the young 
seedlings break through the soil, then admit 
the air gradually. 
While the plants are still small, prick them 
out into small pots, putting them in a soil 
made of rotted sod, leaf mold or peat, well 
decayed manure, and sand, in about equal 
parts. Keep them growing as rapidly as 
possible, and shift them as fast as they fill 
the pots with roots. Never allow them to 
become pot-bound, as this will spoil all 
chances of good flowering plants. Flower 
the plants in 6- or 7-inch pots, or if they are 
extra large, in 8-inch pots. 
Good drainage must always be supplied 
to the pots. The little pots in which they 
are first placed should have some sphagnum 
moss in the bottom, and at all subsequent 
pottings, give a liberal amount of drainage. 
The only likely insect pests are the thrip 
and saphis. Careful syringing each day will 
keep the thrips down, and tobacco stems 
scattered among the pots will act as a pre- 
ventive to the aphides. 
After the plants are well established in 
their flowering pots, and the flowering stems 
are beginning to show, manure water applied 
once or twice a week will be a benefit to them. 
FOOT-LONG SPIKES FOR CUT FLOWERS 
An easily grown cut flower is not always 
to be had in the small greenhouse, but a trial 
of a few plants of snapdragons will sur- 
prise you at the ease with which they may 
be grown. These can be had in beautiful 
spikes a foot long,-and in white, yellow, and 
red. 
For flowers next winter, sow the seed in 
July, or early in August, and grow on the 
plants as rapidly as possible, shifting them 
from the 2-inch pots in which they are 
started to 4-inch, and later 5- or 6-inch, 
when they demand it. Snapdragons will 
do equally well, if not better, planted out, 
in benches a foot apart. 
THE LOVELY CYCLAMEN 
No plant gives better satisfaction than the 
Persian cyclamen (C, latifolium). Its flow- 
ers last a long time in good condition, and it 
has a wealth of color. The flowers are very 
curiously shaped reminding one of its relative 
the shooting star (Dodocatheon). They are 
white or varying in different shades of pink 
to very dark rose color with a purple blotch 
at the mouth. ‘There is a form of the petals 
which have fringed edges. 
These are best grown from seed and so 
constant are some of the strains that one can 
buy named forms which come true. The 
largest flowered form is called giganteum, 
but the large flowers are produced at the ex- 
pense of quantity, so the amateur would 
better content himself with the good strain of 
a smaller flowered form. It takes fifteen 
months to grow the cyclamens from seed to 
flower and they should never receive a check. 
When through flowering throw the bulbs 
away, they do not do well when held over. 
