66 
Feed them with liquid manure at inter- 
vals throughout the growing season, and for 
the chrysanthemums, which must be given 
larger pots as the plants grow, add a 
greater quantity of manure with each re- 
potting. 
Most bulbs require a sandy loam made 
porous with a fibrous woods soil, and a layer 
of very old manure may be used to advan- 
tage in the bottom of the pans, if each bulb 
is well protected from possible contact with 
the fertilizer by a small handful of sand. 
All the hardy bulbs do best if the pots and 
boxes are planted in a pit out of doors to 
make good root growth, though of course a 
good covering of leaves is necessary to ex- 
clude the light, and prevent the hard frost 
from getting in. 
While the earliest of them are maturing, 
the early, mid-season, and late chrysanthe- 
mums will be ready to supply a glorious 
succession of flowers till December, and so 
for next year, from October on, I look for- 
ward to a continuous display of bloom until 
spring again calls us to out-of-door-gar- 
dening. 
“THE GLASS HOUSE”? CALENDAR 
September—Start first set of Dutch bulbs 
and various types of narcissus—lift and re- 
pot house plants from frame the second 
week. The narcissi will bloom before 
Christmas; the tulips and hyacinths at 
Christmas time. 
i 
Deh Meu ID) JIN MLA Cu ZZ LIN| 18, 
Continue planting at intervals of two 
weeks for succession; first, second, third 
and fourth sets of tulips may be found in 
LaReine, Yellow Prince, Rose Grisdelin and 
Pottebakker types—Hyacinths, Ida, Baron 
van Thuyll for earliest. Unnamed sorts are 
less expensive and do just as well for later 
flower. Grow the white alba superbissima 
for Easter. Polyanthus narcissus are best 
for Christmas, and the Trumpet types 
for later. 
October—Lift chrysanthemums and start 
in the house. Last of the month plant 
Gladiolus Colvillet. Blushing Bride gladiolus 
flowers six weeks earlier than The Bride and 
rubra. The latter may be set in January 
for May flowers. Gladioli require a gentle 
bottom heat to start growth quickly. 
February—Take cuttings of Paris daisies, 
chrysanthemums, and begonias, for flowers 
in October and later. 
Much expense may be saved if small 
greenhouse plants are bought at this season, 
and grown through the summer to maturity. 
March—Sow Ostrich Plume chrysanthe- 
mums and Chabaud’s carnations, for flowers 
in October and later. 
Carnations of this strain will bloom con- 
tinuously throughout the winter. 
A pril—Sow seeds of cinerarias for March 
flowers, and Chinese primrose seeds for 
Christmas flowers. 
Cinerarias will flourish in spite of hot sum- 
mer weather, if planted in a deep-framed pit 
SEPTEMBER, 1906 
slanting north with a muslin shade over 
the top. 
May—Plant out in coldframe all house 
plants by the middle of the month. 
Unpot plants, and place in the earth in 
bottomless cardboard or wooden boxes. 
The plants will grow all the stronger for this, 
and the card board straight jackets will 
check the roots from spreading. 
June—For flowers in October and later, 
disbud chrysanthemums and roses until the 
middle of August. Deutsche Perle, (white) 
and Simon Mardner (dark pink) are the 
surest azaleas for Christmas bloom. Be 
sure to pinch out side shoots around form- 
ing azalea buds; the buds will be crowded 
and blast if you neglect this. 
July—Sow calceolaria seed and buy 
Gloire de Lorraine begonia plants. The 
begonias will flower in December, the calceo- 
larias in March. 
Treat calceolaria the same as primrose and 
cineraria—the tall growing hybrida type is 
the handsomest. 
August—Pot Easter lilies and freesias; 
take cuttings from Paris daisies and helio- 
trope; sow cineraria again. The lilies and 
freesias will flower by Christmas; the others 
from January on. 
By planting freesias among lilies or other 
slow maturing flowers, they will bloom be- 
fore the lilies, and break the monotony of 
waiting. If planted two inches deep the 
nuisance of staking is avoided. : 
Tulip Yellow Prince in full flower on February 15th. The largest possible number of bulbs is packed in the flat, to secure a solid mass of color 
