Budding the orange. 
THE 
Two buds have been inserted and have made two shoots. 
GARDEN MAGAZINE 
The stock has been broken 
over, not cut off 
cutting, making a “‘heel” or ‘‘mallet.”” Ex- 
cept in these cases, the lower cut should be 
made just below a bud: Make the lower cut 
slanting, so as to offer much surface for the 
formation of roots. The upper cut may be 
an inch or more above a bud. The length 
of a hardwood cutting should be from four 
to eight inches. ‘There may be two buds up- 
on it, as in a “‘short cutting” of the grape, or 
three buds, as in a “‘long cutting” of grape, 
or six to twelve buds, as in a currant or 
gooseberry cutting. ‘One eye” grape cut- 
tings may be made, but these must be rooted 
under glass. 
Plant hardwood cuttings in the fall as soon 
as taken, except in the northernmost states. 
Set the cuttings three to six inches deep, with 
only one or two buds above ground. Rub 
off all buds, except two or three on top. 
Press the soil firmly about them with the feet, 
and in the North give a heavy mulch. 
The alternative is to tie the cuttings in 
bundles of twenty-five or fifty, all butt ends 
together, and store them over winter in the 
cellar, in moist sand, sawdust, or moss. Or 
they may be buried, bottom ends up, in some 
sheltered and well drained spot out of 
doors. 
In the spring they are set out like the fall- 
planted cuttings. The rooted cuttings will 
be large enough to set in the garden at the 
end of the first season, but plants two years 
old from the cuttings are commonly preferred. 
PROPAGATION BY SUCKERS AND ROOT 
CUTTINGS 
The red raspberry, blackberry, Juneberry, 
banana, pineapple, fig and date are best 
propagated from suckers dug in fall or spring, 
and planted immediately. 
The best red raspberry, blackberry, and 
mulberry plants are secured by cutting the 
larger roots into pieces from two to four 
inches long. These are packed in moist sand 
over winter, and planted in the spring like 
hardwood cuttings, except that the upper end 
is covered with soil to the depth of one inch. 
Be careful to plant the top end up; that is, 
the end that was nearest the stem, indicated 
by the growth of the fibrous roots. These 
root cuttings make excellent plants in one 
season. If necessary, any of our common 
Northern fruits, as plum, cherry, peach, 
pear and apple, can be multiplied by root 
cuttings; but of course they will not come 
true if the parent is a grafted tree. 
PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING 
Budding and grafting differ only in one 
respect; in grafting, a shoot several inches 
long, and bearing several buds, is used to 
perpetuate the variety; in budding, a single 
Blackberry “‘tips.’ 
Cover the ends of the canes with soil in the late summer. 
When planting, see that the bud 
in the centre of the mat of roots is upright 
SEPTEMBER, 1906 
bud, with a bit of bark, and perhaps a bit of 
wood attached to it, is inserted into the stock. 
There are more than a hundred different 
methods of budding and grafting, but only 
three of them are in common use in gardens: 
cleft-grafting, whip-grafting, and _ shield- 
budding. 
Whip-grafting is used for two purposes: 
to change the variety of young trees already 
growing in the garden, and to propagate 
young trees for planting. If there is a tree 
from one to three years old growing in the 
garden and the variety is undesirable, it may 
often be ‘“‘worked over” to better advantage 
by whip-grafting than by budding. Whip- 
grafting is not commonly employed on shoots 
over three-quarters of an inch in diameter, 
and is usually done on one-year-old wood. 
Larger branches should be cleft-grafted or 
budded. 
Grafting is done in early spring, the cions 
having been cut from the trees and stored 
over winter like cuttings. The cion and the 
shoot to be grafted are preferably of about 
the same size, but the cion may be only one- 
half the diameter of the stock without serious 
disadvantage. The stock is prepared to 
receive the cion by cutting it off diagonally, 
making a smooth, even cut about three quar- 
ters of an inch long; the knife is then placed 
at right angles with this cut, about one-third 
of the distance from the lower end of it, and 
is cut down lengthwise of the shoot, making 
a split about one-half inch deep. This 
‘“‘tongue”’ is made for the purpose of holding 
the cion firmly in place. 
The cion is next prepared in exactly the 
same way, and the two joined together by 
their tongues. The cion should be of one- 
year-old wood, from three to six inches long, 
and should bear several strong buds. The 
important point in grafting is to press the 
cambium layer—the green inner bark—of 
the cion tightly against the cambium layer 
of the stock, so that the two surfaces will 
unite. If the cion is smaller than the stock, 
do not, therefore, put it in the middle, but 
flush with one side of the stock. 
Having united the two, firmly wrap five or 
six turns of waxed cotton—made by soaking 
No. 18 knitting cotton in hot melted wax— 
around the point of union, or bind it with 
strips of waxed cloth. This wrapping is not 
removed when the graft is planted. All the 
small branches on a small tree may be grafted 
over in the same way. It is best to allow 
but one or two buds on the cion to grow. 
ROOT GRAFTING 
Root-grafting is commonly done in the 
winter, preferably before February, the roots 
and cions having both been secured in the 
fall, and stored. The cion is placed on pieces 
of roots from two to six inches long, and from 
one to three quarters of an inch thick. These 
roots may be the entire root system of one- 
year-old seedlings, or pieces of these seedling 
roots, or small roots of older trees that have 
been dug up. The entire root of a seedling 
is preferred. The operation is performed 
exactly like the whip-grafting of established 
trees described above. 
Cleft grafting is used to work over old 
