A common sight in neglected orchards. 
bark and effectually “girdle” it. Inasmuch 
as the actual feeding of the tree takes place 
through the downward flow in the outer 
layers of the trunk (the bark), the effect of 
girdling or severing the bark in a complete 
circle is merely starvation to the lower part of 
the tree. Above the girdle the branch will 
appreciably increase in size, below it re- 
mains as it was. Fortunately, there is little 
likelihood of the girdle becoming absolute, 
as the bark will grow over and around the 
cause of the constriction in most cases. But 
sometimes it is effective, and the roots of the 
tree die in the course of a few years. These 
girdled limbs are easily broken by high 
winds or storms. 
HOW TO FASTEN 
Bolt the crotch. Do not support it by 
bands or chains. And there are right and 
wrong ways of bolting. The best way in 
fully grown trees is to bore a hole with an 
auger through both limbs, directly opposite 
each other, and pass through them an iron 
rod which fits snugly. This rod should be 
This old apple tree is capable of bear- 
ing big crops of fruit, but it needs mending first 
secured by a nut on each end, and sometimes 
a plate is used below the nut, to give greater 
security. If the nut alone is used on a still 
rapidly growing tree, the bark will gradually 
close over it, and the ends of.the rod will. be 
lost to sight. This makes a neat appear- 
ance, and is in every way satisfactory. On 
old trees, or on mature limbs, where any 
appreciable increase of girth cannot reason- 
ably be expected, it will be better to counter- 
sink the head of the rod at each end, finishing 
off with a dressing of paint, filling the cavity 
with cement, and finishing off the surface to 
harmonize with the bark of the tree. One 
of the illustrations at the bottom of page 289, 
shows the right and wrong methods of bolting. 
Another satisfactory method, where the de- 
caying crotch has been filled in with cement, 
is shown at the top of the same page. This 
latter treatment can be applied when it is 
desired to retain a branch that has been 
broken down, but which is not entirely 
severed from the trunk. As a rule, how- 
ever, a better result in years to come will be 
had from the immediate removal of the 
a > 
Never uncover the roots of an uld established tree when grading—the risk is too great, even if anchorage 
alone is considered. Build up a retaining wall, like this 
290 
Remove the root suckers and all the water sprouts. 
cannot develop freely, and encourage short, strong growth 
Clean out all wood that 
broken branch and encouragement of fresh 
growth. It will develop very rapidly. 
COLD SPLITS IN YOUNG TREES 
As a result of excessively cold weather, 
young fruit trees will often split perpen- 
dicularly along the trunk. The bark must 
be induced to grow again by cutting back 
into the clean growing tissue, and treating the 
surface of the wound that is exposed to the 
air just the same as is done for surfaces ex- 
posed by cutting or pruning. If this is 
attended to in the early spring, the wound 
should heal completely in a year, and the 
tree will live to a healthy old age, quite in- 
dependently of this accident. If neglected, 
however, a wound of this nature is likely to 
become troublesome in so short a time that 
the owner of the tree will never need to con- 
cern himself with the art of mending old 
ones. 
The treatment above described should also 
be given to any large trees that have been 
struck by lightning. we 
~ BRIDGE GRAFTING 
Professional horticulturists often resort 
to what is known as bridge grafting to secure 
-a quick, new growth of bark over a large- 
sized wound. Ifa branch having a diameter 
of nearly a foot is removed, it will take several 
years before the new growth of the bark will 
completely cover it. The result can be 
hastened by taking cions and sharpening 
each end, as for cleft grafting, and inserting 
them under tie bark, where they will make a 
union. Grafting wax should be applied at 
the point of union, in order to keep out water. 
These cions will quickly cover the exposed 
surface, making a perfect union. Repairs to 
old trees are best done any time during the 
winter because of the absence of foliage. 
Bridge grafting is best done in the spring 
time, when growth is most active, and the 
whole detail of chopping, cleaning, and re- 
pairing is perhaps more conveniently and 
better done in January than at any other time 
of the year. If it is not done in the very 
early spring, attend to it in November, be- 
fore the advent of heavy frosts. 
