THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
Some Sound 
Advice 
On Peach Growing 
In Greenhouses. 
At the very start get it firmly 
fixed in your mind that any 
make-shift carpenter built 
greenhouse won’t do—that a 
house constructed on scien- 
tific greenhouse lines is absolutely essential to insure to you the suc- 
cess of splendid, evenly ripened, luscious fruit. So be prepared to 
spend money—not extravagantly, but enough to insure your having 
the right sort of a house—one that will not only grow peaches, the 
very best possible—but because of its right construction and ar- 
rangement, be economical to maintain. 
Our usual straight-roofed house is often used when the grow- 
ing of trees in pots is preferred: then during the dormant months 
the trees are stored in an ordinary building or cellar, protected from 
frost and with sufficient light, leaving the house free for other 
growing purposes. When planted direct in the ground, the cur- 
vilinear construction gives more room for the spread of the trees. 
Some plant along the sides, and wire them up the roof, but a larger 
number can be planted with the cross trellis method, which requires 
that the house shall run east and west so the sun can reach both 
sides of the trellis all day. Masonry or cement borders to confine 
the roots are sometimes used, both on the out and inside of the 
: house as a protection from roots of 
trees and to insure a more perfect con- 
trol of watering and enrichment. 
This growing of peaches indoors is coming into tremen- 
dous favor and it’s mighty interesting work. Peaches from 
your own greenhouse along in May are something to feel 
proud of. If you want peaches next year you must start 
this year. So take it up with us without delay —there’s 
always some time lost in getting started. Call at our 
Green Room in New York, or write direct to us there. 
LORD & BURNHAM CO. 
Greenhouse Designers and Manufacturers 
1133 BROADWAY, Corner 26th Street, NEW YORK 
Boston Branch: 810 Tremont Building. 
Two branches from a tree grown in a 12-inch pot. The photo 
was taken along in May. 
Section of curvilinear house showing the method of 
cross wiring, and the use of cement bottoms, 
or ‘‘borders’’ as the gardner calls them, 
ILLUSTRATED HOLIDAY EDITION Kipling’s ‘‘ THEY ”’ 
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY, 
Start with the largest stock that can be secured! 
Prepared under the author’s special supervision ($1.65, postpaid). f 
New York City | 
133-137 East 16th Street, 
Plant for Immediate Effect 
Not for Future Generations 
It takes over twenty years 
to grow such Trees and Shrubs as we offer. 
We do the long waiting—thus enabling you to secure trees and shrubs that give an 
ANDORRA NURSERIES 
immediate effect. Send for illustrated list. 
CHESTNUT HILL, 
PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
WM. WARNER HARPER, PROPRIETOR 
JANUARY, 1907 
| mer, 
| some damage in transit, but will heal quickly 
Raising Succulents at Home 
HE amateur can find much pleasure in 
growing hisown cactus plants from seed. 
Sow in a well-drained seed soil, and handle 
like any other seeds. After germination 
give less water than for other seedlings, or 
ihe young plants will burst, i. e., the skin will 
crack open, resulting in a scar that is 
permanent. 3 
Making a cutting of a cactus is the easiest 
thing in the world. Just cut or break off a 
piece of the plant, and you are done! Since 
the tissues are so watery, the cut surface 
must be callused before the cutting is planted. 
Lay it on a shelf in a sunny situation, where 
there is a good circulation of air, for a few 
days. 
Late May and June is best for starting © 
the cuttings, because the wounds will then 
heal quickly and well. Similarly, collected 
plants should be received in the early sum- 
because they are so liable to suffer 
in summer. 
Collected plants are generally without 
roots, or they are so badly damaged that 
they must be removed. Make a clean cut 
with a sharp knife (always use a sharp 
knife in gardening); and if the base of the 
plant is hard and woody, remove that also, 
because roots will start only from the fresh 
growing parts. Cut back to the soft, watery 
tissue, and expose to the sun until the wound 
has callused. Any diseased or decayed 
portion of the plants must be cut out: if this 
does not stop the spread of the trouble, cut 
it out again, and then cauterize the wound 
with a hot iron. 
THE EASY SOIL PROBLEM 
It does not matter much what sort of soil 
is used, so long as it is well-drained. That 
is essential. One successful grower uses 
equal parts of sandy loam, coal ashes, and 
sand, and advises the improvement of a 
clayey soil by adding to it a little air-slaked 
lime. Another, equally successful, uses 
equal parts of fibrous loam and old lime 
rubbish (plaster, etc.) from which the fine 
dust has been screened, with the addition of 
some clean, sharp sand. It is handiest to 
have the plants in pots, although they may 
just as well be grown in boxes. Even the 
smallest need drainage. A good rule to 
follow is to fill one-quarter to one-third of 
the pot with coarse drainage, such as coke, 
coal clinkers, or broken pots, over which put 
a little sphagnum moss, to keep the soil from 
sifting down among the drainage. 
Select a pot just a little larger than the 
body of the cactus. Many people crowd 
