152 
hoes represented by the corresponding num- 
bers used in the illustrations; for example, 
the angle of 33 degrees formed by the lines 
a b, 6 and 10, is the angle for onion weeder 
(No. 6) and lightning scuffle hoe (No. 10). 
The diagram may be used for setting the 
blades, by placing a sheet of heavy paper 
beneath the page on which it is printed; with 
a needle prick the points a and 3, also the 
end of the line forming the angle of the hoe 
to be set. With a straight edge and a sharp 
pencil draw lines exactly through the points 
marked and sufficiently long that when cut 
on these lines the angle forms can be used 
to try the set of the blade. 
THE MANY PURPOSE RAKE 
Of course a rake is included in one’s tool 
outfit; it is useful for clearing up, for leveling, 
and in mellow soils it can often be used in 
place of the hoe for first cultivation and for 
keeping down weeds before planting time. 
For firming the soil over seed, it has no 
equal, as it presses it firmly over the seed 
without packing the surface. I greatly pre- 
fer the full bow frame, instead of the ordinary 
construction because it serves to keep the 
head of the rake straight, making it much 
stiffer and less liable to bend under a blow 
Harmony in 
WHY NOT HAVE SOMETHING BETTER THAN A KALEIDOSCOPE IN YOUR FLOWER GARDEN? 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
or pressure than when the shank is attached 
to the centre of the head. I also prefer the 
curved teeth, as when pulled forward they 
cut through the soil and draw along all 
lumps too large to pass between them; pushed 
backward, the curve causes them to over- 
ride and cut or pulverize the clods of earth. 
It is made in sizes from ten to sixteen inches, 
having from ten to sixteen teeth which are 
three and one-half inches long. The handle 
is six feet long for the 16-inch size, and five 
and one-half feet long for the 1o-inch size. 
FORK VERSUS SPADE 
The only spade that need be included 
is the planting spade, a miniature, but not a 
toy. In all ordinary digging work in the 
cultivated garden the spading fork is by far 
the handiest tool. A small-bladed spade 
has many uses; it is an excellent tool for set- 
ting out plants too large for the planting 
trowel; for transplanting corn, beans, etc., 
to fill gaps; for transplanting parsley, etc., to 
coldframes; and for planting dahlias and 
other rocts and bulbs. The planting spade 
has a blade five inches wide and nine inches 
deep; the full length is two feet seven inches. 
The gardener will have no use for an ordi- 
nary spade after he has tried digging with a 
the Hardy Border—By Louise Shaw, 
APRIL, 1908 
fork, as it reduces the labor fully one-half. 
Try it just once for earthing up celery. The 
fork is much easier to force into the soil, 
and when a forkful is turned, striking it with 
the tines pulverizes it instead of tamping 
it down as does the spade. Forks can be 
had with either flat or triangular tines, the 
latter have one sharp edge (on the back) 
and, I think, pulverize better than the flat 
tines. I know they are easier to clean and 
keep bright. The full length of the fork 
is three feet seven inches, with either four 
or five tines eleven inches long and curved 
slightly. The five-tine fork is slightly 
wider and heavier than the other. 
FOR SETTING POLES, ETC. 
The last of the elementary tools really nec- 
essary is merely a piece of one-inch pipe, five 
feet long, one end pointed to drive holes, the 
other is capped for tamping. It is used for 
setting bean poles, stakes for tomatoes, and 
other light work, not for prying out stumps or 
other heavy work. It is better than a solid iron 
bar, not weighing half as much and, therefore, 
requiring less labor. Poles two inches in 
diameter can be set very rapidly and at any 
depth, and poles three inches in diameter can 
be set two feet into the ground with it. 
New 
Jersey 
HERE ARE NINE DIFFER- 
ENT COLOR COMBINATIONS THAT GIVE FLOWERS IN SUCCESSION FROM APRIL TO NOVEMBER AND NO NERVE SHOCKS 
I HAVE been working to plan a hardy 
border which shall present from spring to 
autumn a succession of color combinations, 
each one of which shall dominate the border 
while in bloom and be its whole centre of 
attraction. Many are the descriptions of 
hardy borders that I have read, but the one 
of my dreams is still waiting to be realized. 
That there should be some- 
thing in bloom from May to 
October and that no violent 
discord of color should be 
permitted is as much as the 
small gardener strives to at- 
tain, while borders devoted to 
Common Name 
in front of them. The effect when they 
bloomed the next June was one of the love- 
liest I have ever seen. Behind the low-lying 
mass of delicate pink bells rose the tall spires 
of the foxgloves, some white and some a 
dull red that was only a deeper tone of the 
Canterbury bell pink. For two weeks that 
corner of the garden reigned supreme and 
Botanical Name Season 
a single color have been suc- 
cessfully planned in larger 
gardens. 
The idea was suggested to 
me several years ago by one 
of those happy accidents that 
are the joy of gardening. One 
summer I raised a thriving 
lot of young foxgloves and 
pink cup-and-saucer Canter- 
bury bells, and, as good luck 
would have it—for I had 
never seen either one of them 
before and was growing them 
chiefly for the sake of their 
names —I planted the fox- 
gloves in the back of the hardy 
border and made an irregular 
group of the Canterbury bells 
» and}? 
Forget-me-not ..-- 
~ Poet’s narcissus. . - 
Hardy alyssum ... 
Tulip ?Immaculée . 
Lemonlily. . . . 
German iris . . . 
Foxglove. . . 
Canterbury bell. - 
E' English larkspur 
Madonna lily. . . 
Pink hollyhock . - 
Coreopsis sane 
Cardinal flower . - 
Ieeihys Soe 6 6 
Phlox Jeanne d’Arc 
Veronica. . 
Wild purple aster . 
2 African marigold . 
-| May 15. . 
Myosotis dissitiflora. . . 
Narcissus poeticus. . . : 
Alyssum saxatile. . . . - -| Mayr. - 
3|| WMlaby ms 5 
Juner. . 
-| June rs . 
-| June rs . 
June 15 -. 
July 
: July 
-| July 
-| July 
- -| Aug. 
-| Aug. 
-| Aug. 
Aug. 
Sept. 
-| Oct. 
Oct. 1. . 
Hemerocallis flava. . - 
Iris Germanica ... .- 
. -| Digitalis purpurea . . . 
Campanula Medium, var. 
calycanthema rosea 
Delphinium grandiflorum 
Lilium candidum. .. . 
Althea rosea 
Coreopsis tinctoria . . . 
Lobelia cardinalis . . - 
Lilium tigrinum. .. . 
Phlox paniculata, var. - 
Veronica longifolia. . . 
(nothing 
Aster Novae-Anglie . . 
Tagetes erecta 
This planting plan is desigoned to give a succession of dominant color combinations 
in perfect harmony throughout the season. 
-| May 15. .| 
- .| white 
-) pale pink 
-| russetand gold 
-| clear red 
-| yellowish pink 
-| white 
-| deep blue 
-| purple 
we realized as we never had before how much 
more beautiful a flower can be when it is 
planted with another that brings out its beauty 
of color and outline. From this the idea grew 
of a border which should contain only such 
wonderful combinations, succeeding each 
other with as little overlapping as possible. 
By dint of observation and experiment 
I have finally gathered to- 
gether nine such combina- 
tions, giving bloom from the 
first of May until the middle 
of October except, unfortu- 
nately, for the whole of 
September. That month in 
my garden calendar is bare 
of flowers of good perennials, 
or at least of any good enough 
for this hardy border. 
The season opens with white 
tulips and hardy yellow alys- 
sum. L’Immaculée is a good 
tulip for this purpose, and is 
prettiest scattered among the 
alyssum, neither in front nor 
behind it. These two are at 
the height of their bloom by 
the first of May and are suc- 
ceeded by poet’s narcissus 
with blue spring - flowering 
forget-me-nots in front. The 
touch of orange in the cups 
of the narcissus gives warmth 
to the blue and white and 
Color 
blue 
white 
yellow 
white 
yellow 
yel. to purple 
wh. and red 
pink 
blue 
all shades yel. 
