146 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



April, 1901 



This is used on plants having very smooth 

 foliage. 



IV. POISONED BRAN MASH 



Wheat bran 40 pounds, 



Molasses (cheapest) 2 quarts, 



Arsenite I pound , 



Water Enough to make a thick mash. 



Keep poultry out of fields treated. For 

 cutworms apply a day or two before set- 

 ting plants as near evening as possible, a 

 heaping tablespoonful near each plant. 



V. HELLEBORE 



Fresh white hellebore i ounce, 



Water 3 gallons. 



Not so energetic a poison as the arsenites 

 and may be applied a short time before fruit 

 is ripe. May be dusted, diluted with five to 

 ten parts of flour or plaster. For currant 

 and strawberry worms, cherry slug, etc. 



FOR SUCKING INSECTS 



VI. KEROSENE EMULSION 



Hard soap J pound, 



Boiling water I gallon, 



Kerosene 2 gallons. 



Dissolve the soap in the water, add the 

 kerosene (away from the fire), and churn with 

 a pump by pumping back and forth, or with 

 a hoe, for five or ten minutes. Dilute four to 

 fifteen times before applying. Use strong 

 emulsion for scale insects. Dilute ten to twelve 

 times for plant lice and soft-bodied bugs. 

 Contact insecticides are often used for 

 soft-bodied caterpillars, which chew their 

 food, but which are killed more quickly 

 with strong emulsion or soap. 



VII. WHALE OIL SOAP 



For San Jose and other scale insects, 

 dissolve two pounds in one gallon hot water 

 and apply while warm. For plant lice, 

 slugs, etc., one pound to six to eight gallons 

 of water. Costs five to ten cents per 

 pound. A solution of any common soap 

 is effective for plant lice on house plants. 



Vm. PYRETHRUM OR INSECT POWDER 



Not poisonous to man in ordinary quan- 

 tities, and therefore used against household 

 pests and on vegetables nearly ready for 

 market. Used either as powder or spray. 

 Burn in room to destroy mosquitoes. Used 

 in water at a rate of one ounce to twelve 

 gallons, which should stand a day before 

 using. Use in hot water for immediate 

 application. Keep in tight cans — deter- 

 iorates with age. 



IX. SULPHUR 



Apply at rate of one ounce to a gallon of 

 water for red spider and mites. Sprinkle 

 in greenhouses, espeeially over steam or hot 

 water pipes. 



x. TOBACCO 



(a) Dust. Useful against plant lice, par- 

 ticularly root-feeding aphides, and for driving 

 such insects as the striped cucumber beetle. 



(b) Spray. Place old stems or leaves in 

 a tight vessel, cover with hot water and allow 



to stand several hours. Dilute three to five 

 times and apply. Much more convenient 

 and uniformly effective are the prepared 

 tobacco extracts, several of which are on the 

 market. 



(c) Fumigation. The tobacco extracts may 

 be evaporated by heat to form a vapor which 

 is fatal to insect life. Several brands of 

 papers which have been saturated with these 

 extracts are now on the market. The latter 

 are burned and the smoke fumigates. The 

 "fumigating kind" of tobacco powder may 

 also be used for fumigating. The best 

 method of controlling plant lice and similar 

 pests in greenhouses, coldframes, and upon 

 melons and other plants which may be readily 

 covered with a canvas frame (see The 

 Garden Magazine, June, 1906 page 290.) 



XL LIME-SULPHUR WASH 



Slake four pounds of best stone lime in 

 kettle over a fire, and add three pounds of 

 sulphur, stirring constantly until all the lime 

 slakes, . and after adding the sulphur stir 

 frequently until the mixture has boiled at 

 least thirty and preferably forty-five minutes. 

 Strain through burlap or fine wire screening 

 into the spray barrel and add enough water 

 to make ten gallons. 



XII. CARBOLIC SOAP 



One pint crude carbolic acid added to 

 ten gallons thick solution of caustic soap, 

 preferably whale oil soap. Applied to trunks 

 and branches of trees to prevent egg-laying 

 of borers. 



Fungicides 



XIII. COPPER SULPHATE SOLUTION 



Three ounces of copper sulphate dissolved 

 in five gallons of water. 



XIV. COPPER CARBONATE MIXTURE 



Two ounces of copper carbonate dissolved 

 in five gallons of water. 



XV. AMMONIACAL COPPER CARBONATE 



Dissolve one ounce of copper carbonate 

 in one-half pint of ammonia diluted with 

 two quarts of water, and dilute to ten gallons 

 of water. Used to avoid spotting of nearly 

 ripe fruit. 



XVI. POTASSIUM SULPHIDE 



Stir three ounces of potassium sulphide 

 into ten gallons of water. 



XVII. FORMALDEHYDE 



(a) One ounce of formaldehyde in three 

 and one-half gallons of water. 



(b) One ounce of formaldehyde to two 

 gallons of water. 



XVIII. CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 



One ounce of bichloride of mercury 

 (poison) in eight gallons of water. Melt 

 the chemical in a gallon of warm water with 

 a teaspoonful of common salt added; and 

 dilute. 



XIX. BORDEAUX MIXTURE 



Dissolve one pound of copper sulphate 

 (bluestone or blue vitriol) in a gallon of water 

 by hanging in a bag. Slake one pound of 



fresh stone lime and dissolve in one gallon 

 of water. Add four pints of the copper 

 sulphate solution to a bucket (2J gals.) of 

 water, and six pints of the lime solution to 

 another bucket of water. Pour the buckets 

 of dilute copper sulphate and dilute lime 

 together into a third vessel, stirring 

 thoroughly, to make five gallons. The 

 remainder of the gallon of bluestone solution 

 and lime solution can be similarly diluted 

 and mixed when needed for later sprayings. 

 Resin mixture (111) may be added to secure 

 greater adhesiveness. 



XX. DILUTE BORDEAUX MIXTURE 



Prepared the same as above but with 

 one-half as much copper sulphate and lime. 

 For use on peach, plum and tender foliage. 



XXI. IRON SULPHATE-SULPHURIC ACID 

 SOLUTION 



Dissolve as much iron sulphate (copperas) 

 in hot water as it will take up. Add one 

 part of commercial sulphuric acid. Pre- 

 pare just before using. Can be used only 

 when vines are perfectly dormant. 



How to Apply the Remedies 



For. a few bushes nothing is better than 

 a whisk broom such as one buys from the 

 store or it may be made by tying together 

 tips of small-branched trees — the birch is 

 excellent for this. 



The easiest way of applying the spray is 

 by means of a knapsack or a compressed 

 air sprayer which have tanks holding four 

 or five gallons. The former is worn, like 

 a knapsack, a handle being supended over 

 the shoulder with which to pump out the 

 liquid. The compressed air sprayer is sim- 

 ply a tank which one carries slung under 

 his arm. To get pressure there is an air 

 pump which pumps air into the tank getting 

 a compression, which will throw a spray 

 for several minutes. 



The small air sprayer which will hold 

 only a quart or two of liquid are only toys 

 and really cannot be recommended. 



Be sure that all the working parts of the 

 pumps are of brass — not iron — and do not 

 buy outfits with galvanized iron tanks for 

 the copper quickly eats through the iron. 



When a pump is used which gives sufficient 

 force to make a spray the kind of nozzle to 

 use is an important question. For general 

 use there are but two types which are worth 

 recommending, the Vermorel and the Bor- 

 deaux. The Vermorel nozzle makes the 

 finer spray of the two in a cone shaped form 

 and is the favorite for fruit tree spraying and 

 some people prefer to use it. 



The Bordeaux nozzle makes a flat, fan- 

 shaped spray and is preferred by, many for 

 spraying vegetables, potatoes and sometimes 

 for trees where it is wished to cover a large 

 leaf surface in a short time, 



One advantage of the Bordeaux nozzle is 

 that it may be regulated to produce a fine 

 spray yet it is very easily cleaned of any 

 clogging. The Vermorel is furnished with 

 a cleaning pin but in spite of that it some- 

 times becomes badly clogged. 



