A Pathway Garden of Annuals— By a. Radciyffe Dugmore 



A PLANTING PLAN THAT WILL ENABLE YOU TO REPRODUCE THE GARDEN SHOWN ON THIS MONTH'S 

 COVER— HOW TO LINE A WALK WITH FLOWERS— ESPECIALLY VALUABLE FOR A SUMMER HOUSE 



A GARDEN of annuals was, by force of 

 circumstances, the only kind of a 

 flower garden we could have last year, as we 

 could not have any work done at our summer 

 home until we went there in April. More- 

 over, with the exception of some hollyhocks, 

 we had no plants on hand and did not feel 

 that we wanted to spend much money on 

 the luxury of flowers. Therefore, seeds were 

 bought at a cost of about three dollars, and 

 as I knew that I should be away the early 

 part of the summer, the garden was planned 

 to be its best from July 15th to August 31st. 

 I was never more surprised in my life than 

 when I came home in July after an absence 

 of several weeks, to see this garden as it is 

 shown on this month's cover. 



The California poppy (Eschscholzia Calif ornica) , per- 

 ennial but cultivated as an annual 



The part of the vegetable garden which 

 we were going to devote to flowers was a 

 strip six feet wide on either side of the central 

 path, which was seventy-eight feet long. 

 This path starts at a grape arbor and runs 

 to the edge of the woods. 



On April 5th, the soil, which is somewhat 

 of a clayey nature, was thoroughly spaded 

 and two weeks later the spading was repeated 

 and a mixture of hardwood ashes and well- 



rotted manure, with a little nitrate of soda 

 and lime, was worked in. On April 23d, 

 the soil being in good condition, I began 

 sowing the seeds. First of all, I marked off 

 where each kind should be, then a couple of 

 pailfuls of top soil was thoroughly pulverized 

 and sprinkled on the finer seeds. 



The arrangement of the flowers was as 

 follows : A row of dwarf nasturtiums (trans- 

 planted from the reserve beds) bordered the 

 path; against this were irregular masses of 

 red and yellow portulaca, pinks (Dianthus 

 Chinensis), phlox (P. Drummondi, var. coc- 

 cinea, large blood-red and dwarf Cecily), Cali- 

 fornia and the splendid scarlet tulip poppy 

 (Papaver glaucum) ; back of these also in 

 separate irregular masses which ran into each 

 other, were Chrysanthemum coronarium, blue 

 and yellow cornflower (Centaurea Cyanus 

 and Ceutaurea suaveolens), blue-eyed African 

 daisy (Arctotis grandis) Shirley poppies, mari- 

 golds (Prince of Orange, Eldorado, Legion 

 of Honor and dwarf pulchra), lupines, Gail- 

 lardias and rudbeckias. These were pro- 

 tected by a tall row of sunflowers (Stella, 

 many-flowered, double, and Russian), Golden 

 Glow and pink and red hollyhocks. The 

 Golden Glow failed to grow, so climbing 

 nasturtiums were planted in its place. 



We are unfortunate in having very late, and 

 what seem always to be unexpected, frosts, 

 as we live in the high country of Northern 

 New Jersey at an elevation of nearly 1,000 

 feet, and even in the middle of May one is not 

 absolutely safe. My seeds were up an inch, 

 when one of these wretched frosts came. 

 The gaillardias and some of the marigolds 

 were killed, but otherwise not very much 

 damage was done. Wherever gaps occurred, 

 dwarf nasturtiums were planted from that 

 useful reserve bed. 



Of all the flowers, none proved more thor- 

 oughly satisfactory than the summer chrys- 

 anthemum (C. coronarium). Its sturdy 

 growth, fine foliage and wonderful profusion 

 of pure lemon-yellow flowers should make 

 it far more popular than it is. From July 10th 



until the middle of October, when we had 

 had several frosts, we gathered flowers every 

 few days. The tulip-poppy was all that 

 could be desired in the way of intense bril- 

 liant scarlet, but it did not bloom "till frost" 

 or anywhere near it, notwithstanding what 

 the catalogues claim. We tried a few of 

 Burbank's crimson-flowering eschscholzia, 

 but the results were unsatisfactory. The 

 flowers lacked vigor, though the other poppies 

 were remarkably strong. The blue-eyed daisy 

 flowered almost as long as the chrysanthemum. 

 In growing annuals, it seems to me advis- 

 able to keep in reserve some plants that will 





Corn poppy (Papaver Rhoeas). The Shirley poppy is 

 a development of this 



stand transplanting late in the summer to 

 fill in gaps as they occur. The flowers should 

 be in solid masses with no bare ground to 

 detract from the effect and allow moisture 

 to escape and weeds to grow. There should 

 be some device to support such plants as 

 poppies and cornflowers. A wire netting 

 placed over the entire bed might answer 

 the purpose and it would not be seen. 



jr> 



9f> 



3R 













?V \f > /-v ' \ 



1. Kaiser Wilhelm cornflower (Centaurea Cyanus)— 2. African daisy (Ardoiis grandts)— 3. Annual phlox ("Phlox Drummondii)— 4. Shirley poppy ('Papaver 'Rhoeas, 

 var. Shirley)— 5. California poppy (Eschscholzia Calif ornica)— t . Tulip poppy (Papaver giaucum)—7. Golden Gate poppy (Papaver somniferum)— 8. African marigold. 

 Prince of Orange and Eldorado (Tagetes erecia) — 9. French marigold, Double Pulchra and Legion of Honor (Tagetes patula)— 10. Chinese pinK ^Dianthus Chinensis) — 

 11. Texas lupine (Lupinus subcamosus)— 12. Chrysanthemum-flowered sunflower (Helianihus decapetalas, var. multiflorus)—13. Stella sunflower (Helianthus debelis, var. 

 Stella)-\4. Annual calliopsis (Coreopsis coronata) — 15. Pvose moss (Portulaca grandiflora) —16. Hollyhocks (cAthaea rosea)— 17. Sweet sultan (Centurea moschata)— 

 18. Annual chrysanthemum (C. coronarium)— 19. Tall nasturtium (Trooaeolum ma/us)— 20. Coneflower (Rudbeckia bicolor, var. superba)— Unnumbered spaces, dwarf nas- 

 turtium (Tropaeolum minus) 



147 



