332 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



July, 1907 



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A huge standard rose in a California yard, 

 thousands of flowers 



This bears 



special attention. They are best taken 

 down, all the branches being tied together, 

 and bent down to the ground and covered 

 with five or six inches of earth ; this, in turn, 

 when slightly frozen, is covered with some 

 loose stable litter, or leaves. Treated thus, 

 it is surprising what very tender varieties 

 may be grown in very exposed situations. 

 For instance, I have had Marechal Niel and 

 Reine Marie Henriette growing on a veranda 

 on Long Island. Injury from drip may also 

 be prevented by wrapping the more hardy 

 varieties in burlap, or very heavy paper. 



Never prune in the fall, if the plants are 

 to be covered, as sometimes the topmost eyes 

 will push out into life and be injured by late 

 frosts. 



Feeding old established plants that have 

 exhausted the soil can be accomplished in 

 early spring, by spading under a dressing of 

 four or five inches of manure, and after the 

 buds burst and just before a rain, give a 

 dressing of fertilizer in which bone is the 

 principal ingredient. About the middle of 

 May, start to give the plants regular weekly 

 applications of liquid manure. Unfortun- 

 ately, this treatment tends to bring the roots 

 to the surface, which, of course, must be 

 avoided unless one is anxious to water in 

 dry weather. Retrenching the ground^just 

 outside the old trench lines is slower in/giving 

 results, but its effects are more lasting. 



Transplanting may be done at almost any 

 time, except during the period of -actual 

 growth (June and July) if the plants are 

 severely pruned, for they will quickly start 

 growth from the young eyes. Spring/ how- 

 ever, is the best time, and the earlier the-bet- 

 ter, and even though planting under the 

 most favorable conditions it is advisable to 

 prune well. 



A quick start counts for much in planting 

 and it will help greatly to throw a handful 

 of fertilizer in the ground near the roots, but 

 not in actual contact. If growth does not 

 start quickly, the wood hardens. 



Young plants of roses can be raised by 

 layering in early spring (April). Use flower- 



ing wood and make a clean cut about half 

 way through the shoot to be layered, just 

 below an eye, and bend the shoot down to 

 the ground, fastening it with pegs or stones. 

 Place a handful of sharp sand around the 

 cut and keep it well watered. It will quickly 

 make roots and may be severed from the 

 parent plant in about four to six weeks. 



Roses, generally speaking, are not any 

 more subject to insect attacks than are any 

 other flowering shrubs. The worst pest is 

 the rose beetle, which, however, also attacks 

 other shrubs that flower about the same 

 time. Fortunately, its season is short, and 

 as most of the climbing roses flower later 

 than the ordinary garden kinds, they escape 

 untouched. 



As a preventive on the earlier flowering 

 kinds, I have tried everything I ever heard 

 of as being good; arsenate_ofil#ad, Paris green; 

 kerosene- and tobacco preparations — all with 



The Baltimore Belle, a prairie rose hybrid. An old- 

 fashioned but popular variety 



practically no success. Handpicking is the 

 most effectual means of attack. It is not 

 such an awful task as one may imagine, and 

 one can usually get some of the small boys 

 of the neighborhood to do the work at a 

 small cost. Let each worker have a bucket 

 with a little kerosene in the bottom. The 

 advantage of this is that the females are 

 destroyed and the intensity of next year's 

 attack lessened. These insects do not chew 

 like most other large insects but bore down 

 into the very heart of the flower, where it is 

 impossible to get any poison. 



If any of the leaves become skeletonized, 

 the rose slug is at work and will be found on 

 the under side of the leaf, and the poisons 

 (hellebore, or arsenate of lead or Paris green) 

 must be applied there. Ivory soap (one bar to 

 ten gallons) added to the two latter named will 

 help them to adhere. Dust the plants with 

 hellebore while the dew is still on them. 

 Spray with Paris green one ounce to twelve 

 gallons of water, or arsenate of lead one 

 pound to ten gallons of water. 



If the green fly, or a'phis, is troublesome — 

 some will always be found on the tip of the 

 young growth — these can be destroyed with 

 some of the tobacco preparations, kerosene 

 emulsion or gishurst compound. 



The same remedies are used against the 

 leaf hopper, whose presence can be detected 

 by yellowish blotches showing on the foliage, 

 but the insect itself will be found only on the 

 under side of the leaf. 



One caution about using poisons of any 

 kind on the plants, as it is not uncommon for 

 children to eat rose petals (in fact, I have 

 seen some grown up folks do it, too) very 

 plain warnings of their presence should be 

 given. 



The San Jose scale will attack roses, and 

 as it is a difficult pest to overcome, and the 

 plant itself is almost sure to be very sickly 

 before its presence is detected, the best course 

 is usually to dig them up at once and burn 

 them. If, however, they are worth the 

 trouble of saving, spray in spring and fall 

 with some of the standard preparations of 

 soluble oil. 



Mildew is the commonest trouble of climb- 

 ing roses, and the powdery gray coating on 

 the surface of the leaves is especially dis- 

 figuring to veranda plants. If not taken in 

 hand as soon as it is seen, the affected leaves 

 will drop from the plant, leaving bare, un- 

 sightly stems. 



A good remedy is flowers of sulphur blown 

 on the plant with a small bellows on a good 

 bright day, but spraying with potassium 

 sulphide (five ounces to ten gallons of water) 

 is better, to my mind, because if windy the 

 sulphur blows from the foliage. Spraying 

 with kerosene emulsion will also control 

 the mildew. 



The single, rich pink flowers are produced 

 in great numbers all at one time, so that the 

 plants become veritable wreaths of bloom 

 which last for about two weeks. As a trail- 

 ing plant allowed to fall over a trellis or 



The Crimson Rambler rose as a hedge, 

 popular climbing red rose 



The most 



