60 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



September, 1918 



m 



■i."**^ 



NOW 



Sept 



October 



Is the Time to Begin Plant- 

 ing Evergreens 



and gain time by so doing. We have about 

 everything adapted to this latitude. Send 

 for our HANDBOOK-CATALOGUE if you 

 please, 



Mailed Free for the asking 



ember Begin planting PERENNIALS and continue 

 through OCTOBER. We have a large vari- 

 ety of strong field-grown plants. 



Begin planting deciduous TREES and 

 SHRUBS and keep at it until the freezing 

 of the ground stops you. 



FALL PLANTING GAINS TIME for the 

 plants and relieves, by so much, the rush of 

 the Spring work. 



■^•' ' -.."- 



TFss. Bgy Sisd^^Jurseries 



678 Adams Street *<§£$ 



North Abington, Mass. »7 



IJlilillllill'PlllllillillllPiPI'illlll 



n 



&&runa "Marvel" 1 



I 



WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM 



"pOR medium-sized subur- 

 ban or country homes or 

 summer cottages. Operates 

 by electricity (cost about 

 one cent a day). Practi- 

 cally self-operating. 



Let the "thousand-and-one" 

 Deming hand and power pumps 

 solve your water problems. 



B The Demini Co., Ill Depot St., Salem, Ohio 



AMERICAN 



-GROWN 



EVERGREENS 



For September Planting 



Our ability 



to supply plants of 



the highest 



quality is not cur- 



tailed by the stoppage of foreign 



shipments. 



Buy nursery stock 



grown at Andorra. 



Andorra 





Nurseries 





Wm. Warner Harper, Prop. 





"Suggestions for Effective 



Box 60 



Planting" on request. 



Chestnut Hill 





Phila., Penna. 



Close Planting in Small Gardens 



"\TARIETY and continuous yield are 

 ' essential to the success of the small 

 kitchen garden. To achieve this careful 

 planning is necessary, and careful cultivation, 

 and if the greatest yield possible to the area 

 is to be had there must be close planting. 

 Plants in the little garden that is cultivated 

 by hand will flourish when growing much 

 closer together than the distances designated 

 in the directions given in the books, if the 

 proper tools are used in cultivation. These, 

 of course, have to be small, and I know of 

 none better adapted for the purpose than the 

 Eureka weeder, except a modification of it 

 that is made by removing its short handle 

 and replacing it with a six-foot rake handle. 

 This re-made tool will enable you to do nearly 

 all the work that can be done with the original, 

 and to do it in a more comfortable standing, 

 instead of stooping, position. 



The books generally tell us to thin salsify 

 to six inches in the row, and to have the rows 

 twelve to eighteen inches apart. I have grown 

 as large and fine salsify as I ever saw with the 

 plants three inches apart in the row, and the 

 rows nine inches apart. In planting thus 

 closely it is well to have the rows in groups of 

 five, and then leave an eighteen inch alley in 

 which to walk when cultivating. With a long 

 or short-handled Eureka weeder you can 

 move along the alley, cultivating in it, as 

 well as up to the middle row of the planting; 

 and the same process on the other side of the 

 five rows finishes the job. Or, still better, if 

 the rows are not more than sixteen feet long, 

 you can stand at the end of them, and with 

 a little stretching reach to the middle of 

 the planting, and dragging the tool toward 

 you between the rows, cultivate half of it 

 first from one end and then from the other 

 without stepping into the bed. The weeder is 

 about the correct width to pass between nine 

 inch rows, and if the time chosen is just long 

 enough after a rain for the surface to have 

 drained properly a good and sufficient mulch 

 can be made with one motion of the tool. 

 Onions may be planted and cultivated in the 

 same way, except that where a small variety — 

 such as Australian Brown, which is early and 

 an excellent keeper, but not mild — is used, 

 two inches apart in the row is enough. 



Another thing for the small gardener to 

 consider in his plans, where one row is not 

 sufficiently long for a separate planting, is the 

 double row. Here again is where the nine- 

 inch distance between the rows is generally 

 desirable, and where the long-handled weeder 

 can be advantageously used until the growth 

 of the plants prevents cultivation between 

 them. The stoppage, however, will do no 

 harm, as the ground is shaded, and culti- 

 vation may be continued on the two outsides 

 of the double row. Peas are generally planted 

 in this way, and many other things might just 

 as well be. Drop bush beans (except limas) 

 three inches apart in two rows nine inches 

 apart, and you will raise about double the 

 crop on little more than half the space a 

 single row would occupy. The plants get the 

 room they need by leaning outward. The 

 same plan works admirably with half-long 

 carrots. Three inches apart in the row is 

 enough even for the broad-shouldered Chan- 

 tenay and Oxheart. Three inches is like- 

 wise enough for turnip-shaped beets, and 

 even for the white varieties of kohlrabi, in 

 spite of their rather spreading top growth. 



The double-row system can also be used 

 (Continued on page 62) 



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