

October, 1918 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



81 



dehydrated at the community plant, and instead 

 of paying for that service, be credited with 

 the price for dehydration. For example, if 



Equivalent Quantities of Dehydrated and Fresh Vege- 

 tables and Fruits to Supply Four People. 



Beets 



Beet Greens 



Cabbage 



Carrots 



Celery (creamed) 



Corn (sweet) 



Cauliflower 



Leeks (soup) 



Lima Beans (young) 



Lima Beans (old) 



Mint and Herbs 



Okra (creamed) 



Onions 



Parsley (soup) 



Parsnips 



Potatoes (sweet) 



Peas (garden) 



Potatoes 



Spinach 



String Beans (Green and Wax) 



Swiss Chard 



Soup mixture 



Summer Squash 



Tomatoes 



Turnip 



Apples 



Strawberries 



Red Raspberries 



Black Raspberries 



Blackberries 



Bananas 



Huckleberries 



WET OR GREEN 



DEHYDRATED 



POUNDS 



OUNCES 



2* 



2 



2 



2 



4 



45 



2 



4 



4 

 I 



4 



1 + 



4 



2+ 



Ij 



2 



2 



4 



2 



4§ 



2 



| 



2 



4 



li 



2 



I 

 3 

 3 



6 

 6 



2 



4 



6 

 4 



2f 



#2,000.00 was subscribed a fair rate of interest 

 would be 5% — #100. Under usual conditions 

 ten people, subscribers, would have #10.00 worth 

 of dehydration during a season. This does not 

 take into account voluntary contributions of 

 products and voluntary labor. 



To make a community plant pay expenses 

 demands a dehydrator sufficiently large to 

 carry many trayloads. I assume that under 

 normal conditions a machine is used and not 

 a kiln. Where people desire to have dehy- 

 drating done a charge of 10 cents a lb. wet is 

 enough to cover the varied costs involved, such 

 as conditioning, labelling, bagging, etc. If the 

 product is to be prepared at the plant a charge 

 of 25 cents is reasonable. Products that are pre- 

 pared at home deteriorate in transit. 



TF 5,000,000 housewives would dry over 

 ■*• the stove one pound of soup mixture 

 made from odds and ends of carrots, beans, 

 peas, celery, potatoes, onions, and tomatoes 

 it would result in making (with a little stock 

 added,) some millions of plates of nourishing 

 soup — a tremendous saving of little quantities 

 which would otherwise go into the garbage can. 

 Some saving! 



The undercurrent of patriotic thinking per- 

 meating the American public to-day will sooner 

 or later produce, as always, an adherence to what 

 is good and right. Dehydrated foods have come 

 to stay. 



Rehydrating or "Bringing Back" Vegetables and Fruits by 

 Soaking in Water 



Note; The water in which the dehydrated product is soaked must 

 be used in the cooking. Keep in cool place while soaking and cook 

 gently till tender. 



Dehydrated 



hours for 

 soaking 



Beet Greens 



Beets 



Cabbage 



Carrots 



Cauliflower 



Celery 



Corn 



Leeks 



Lima Beans 



Mint and Herbs : 



Okra 



Onions 



Parsley 



Parsnips 



Peas 



Potatoes (White) 



Potatoes (Sweet) 



Spinach 



String beans (Green and wax). 



Swiss Chard 



Summer Squash 



Soup mixture 



Tomatoes 



Turnips 



Apples 



Bananas 



Huckleberries* 



Black Raspberries* 



Red Raspberries* 



Blackberries* 



Strawberries* 



4 to 5 

 3 to 4 

 3 to 4 

 3 to 3 § 

 3 to 4 

 3 to 4 

 over night 

 2 



over night 



4 



2 to 3 

 I 



5 to 6 

 over night 

 over night 

 over night 

 I 



3 to 4 

 1 



3 to 4 



4 to 6 

 4 to 6 

 4 to 6 



I to i-£ 



I tO I 2 



I tO 2 



I tO 2 



cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 tepid 

 tepid 

 tepid 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 tepid 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 tepid 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 

 cold 



*Berries should be brought to a boil slowly and boiled from 

 10 to 15 minutes. This for [pies, puddings, iellies, and fruit 



Why Plant Fruit Trees This Fall? m.g.kains 



Investment in Fruit Trees and Bushes is Permanent — Work Done Now Begins to Pay Dividends Just So Much Sooner 



FRUIT plants yield larger and more 

 attractive returns for the time and effort 

 required to maintain them than do any 

 other plants. And fruit is preemi- 

 nently a home garden product. It can be had in 

 far greater perfection when home grown than 

 when produced for market, especially when the 

 distance between the soil and the palate is great. 

 Far finer varieties may be grown in the home 

 garden than can be secured in the market. 



It is well recognized that fruit supplies salts 

 and acids which are not merely welcome to the 

 palate but promotive of health. Less well known 

 is the fact that fruit supplies sugars and "ca- 

 lories" (see July Garden Magazine, page 256). 



Nuts are fruits whi^h besides adding variety 

 to the menu are valuable for the oil they supply, 

 and oils are fats! 



Fruits and nuts replace grains and meats in 

 agreeable ways. They are therefore especially 

 important in the nation's dietary during these 

 war times. In the piping times of peace to come 

 they will play a similar economic role. 



No matter how small the garden, there is 

 space for some kind of fruit. Strawberries, 

 raspberries, currants, etc., require little room. 

 Dwarf trees need scarcely more than the bushes. 

 All these may be planted among the large fruit 

 trees. 



Apart from their food values fruit trees and 

 shrubs may be effectively placed where merely 

 ornamental trees and shrubs usually are. The 

 fruit season may be made to extend throughout 

 the year. Thoughtful choice of varieties and 

 suitable storage facilities are all that is necessary. 

 The chief obstacle to long keeping is appetite — 

 but who would forego that? 



"Everbearing" varieties of strawberries, rasp- 

 berries, and long season varieties of currants, 

 peaches, apples, etc., are especially adapted to 

 home gardens. Many of them are of high quality 

 and almost none of them can be bought in the 

 markets. 



Benefits of Fall Planting 



"^[EVER in the history of this continent have 

 ■*■ ^ the arguments in favor of fall planting 

 applied so definitely as this autumn. Not only 

 do the fundamental principles fit the case more 

 snugly than ever before but two other factors 

 have special bearing this year. 



First, nursery stocks of many classes and 

 varieties of plants are much less abundant than 

 in previous years, thus reducing to the lowest 

 limit the chances of securing desired kinds; and 

 second, transportation conditions, though bad, 

 are probably more favorable now than they will 

 be next spring. So whoever orders his nursery 

 stock delivered this fall, even though he must 

 store it until spring, will doubtless have cause to 

 congratulate himself, because much injury due to 

 delays may be expected during the opening 

 months of next season. 



This factor of delay is one of the most serious 

 obstacles to success in spring planting and one of 

 the least important in the fall. The reason is 

 that in the spring every additional hour between 

 digging and replanting increases the activity of 

 the plant but without supplying new food; 

 whereas in the fall each hour makes the plant 

 more and more dormant. In the former case the 

 plant has greater and greater difficulty in making 

 a start the longer it is out of the ground; in the 

 latter it suffers less and is surer to take hold and 

 be ready to grow when spring opens. In fact, 

 fall-planted trees and shrubs begin to form roots 

 and thus become established earlier than spring- 

 planted ones could, and, according to my experi- 

 ence, this advantage continues, not only during 

 the first season, but during subsequent years. 



Another very strong point in favor of fall 

 planting is that there is no question that the 

 plants are freshly dug; they have not spent a 

 minute in storage. Hence they are fuller of vi- 

 tality than trees stored under even so-called ideal 

 conditions. Spring-shipped nursery stock is very 

 largely fall dug and winter stored. Yes, it 



should grow provided it has been properly 

 handled during storage and shipment but my ex- 

 perience is that it does not compare with freshly 

 dug stock. So strongly do I favor freshly dug 

 stock that I would always order in the fall if I 

 could count on three weeks or more of fairly open 

 weather between planting time and the arrival of 

 winter. Indeed, I would have the plants deliv- 

 ered in the fall even when I could not count on 

 that much time because I could store them my- 

 self and thus be sure of having them ready for 

 planting the moment spring conditions would 

 warrant. 



"Heel-in" If You Like 



HpHERE is no difficulty about storing. The 

 -*■ best method is heeling-in which is best 

 managed as follows: choose a well-drained spot 

 well away from buildings, hay stacks and other 

 places in which mice might harbor. Dig a 

 trench a foot or so deep making one side with a 

 long slant. Unfasten the bundles of trees and 

 shrubs and lay each specimen down at right 

 angles to the trench with the trunk resting on the 

 slope. Cover the roots with earth which must 

 be tramped down well. Then cover a good part 

 of the trunks also. Finally be sure that no 

 straw or other material is left near by to serve 

 as mouse headquarters; for mice will gnaw the 

 bark' and perhaps kill the trees. In spring take 

 up the trees and plant them as soon as soil 

 conditions will permit. This practice has been 

 popular with fruit growers for perhaps centuries. 

 It is thoroughly satisfactory. 



No matter whether the planting is to be done 

 in the fall — especially this year — or in the spring, 

 order the stock now because there is no time like 

 the early fall for getting exactly what is wanted. 

 Nurserymen are then less likely to have sold 

 out the rarer, finer kinds of which they usually 

 have a smaller supply than of the commercial 

 and so-called standard varieties. 



The stock may be ordered reserved for spring 



