October, 1918 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



85 



Selecting Roots for Next Year 



I3EETS, carrots, parsnips, salsify, and turnips 

 are all handled in much the same way. 

 Pick out smooth, medium sized, and preferably 

 not too fully matured roots, when digging in the 

 fall. In selecting, shape and smoothness should 

 count for more than size. Store either in a good 

 cellar, or in a pit in a well-drained spot outside, 

 where they will not freeze, but will be kept as 

 evenly cold as possible through the winter. 



Early in the spring set these roots out in well-prepared, well-fer- 

 tilized soil, planting them quite deep, and hilling up slightly as the 

 root-stalks develop. They will throw up more or less loose-branch- 

 ing heads, something like the lettuce plants illustrated herewith, 

 and may, if only a few are grown, require supporting to keep them 

 upright. When the seed develops, but before it is ripe enough to 

 begin to shatter out, cut the tops and store where they will get 

 plenty of air, and if possible sunshine, until "cured." They may 

 be conveniently handled on small square drying sheets of muslin or 

 any cheap material, which can be taken out and spread in the sun- 

 shine in good drying weather, and put back under cover at night. 



Grand Rapids lettuce with developed seed stalks supported by 

 stakes and ties 



Bean plant selected for seed because of prolific character 



Such seeds as may be knocked out will be saved in the sheets; when 

 the tops are thoroughly dry the remainder may be rubbed out, and 

 stored away. 



Onions. Select a few of the most perfect and solidest bulbs, and 

 store in a dry, cool place. Set out in the spring, planting quite deep, 

 and several inches apart in the row. Hill up well, as the tall seed 

 stalks develop. If necessary, stakes and twine should be used to 

 keep them upright. When the seed has begun to ripen, as indicated 

 by. its turning black and hard and dry in the seed head, but before it 

 begins to scatter, cut the stalks, finish drying on a sheet, and 

 then rub out the seed. 



Cabbage. This is one of the least satisfactory of vegetables to 

 try to grow a home supply of seed of, but the method is simple. 

 Select a few perfect heads in the fall; take them up, roots and all, 

 and store in a trench or pit, as for ordinary winter storage. In the 

 spring, set them deep in well-prepared soil. "Cross" the heads if 

 the seed stalks have any difficulty in breaking through, support the 

 stalks; cut the tops when the seed pods — which resemble those of a 

 wild turnip — begin to turn yellow; finish drying and rub the seed 

 out. 



AFTER getting the seed of the various 

 ■^*- vegetables mentioned, it should be kept in 

 cloth or paper bags, in a dry place safe from 

 mice, until there is time to clean it. This can 

 be done in a small way, by blowing the chaff and 

 light seed out as the seed is poured from one hand 

 to the other, by floating it in water, or by working 

 it through a sieve of suitable size. 



Of course the root crops cannot cross the first 

 year, so any of them can be saved. Corn will 

 "mix" readily, if two varieties near each other 

 come into tassle at the same time. Cucumbers, 

 melons, and squash will not cross, in spite of the 

 popular assumption that they will, but the dif- 

 ferent varieties of each mix readily. Lettuce and 

 tomatoes are usually safe, as they will not cross 

 unless in quite close proximity, and more than 

 one variety in flower at the same time. 







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On the right smooth roots worth growing for seed. 

 Those on the left discarded 



Storing the Crops for Winter Use 



It Is Quite Simple if Each Crop Is Given Its Proper Temperature, Says Professor R. L. Kirkpatrick, of Fort Collins, Colo., Who 



Has Made a Study of Vegetable Crop Conservation for War Gardens 



FOOD Preparedness" demands that all 

 available garden crops be enlisted in 

 the food conservation campaign of this 

 coming winter, that is, that they be 

 stored in the cellar or "placed in the trench." 



Requirements for Successful Storage 



CTRICT attention must be given to four 

 ^ requirements if stored crops are to keep 

 well during winter, namely, (i) temperature, (2) 

 moisture, (3) ventilation, and (4) condition of 

 the produce to be stored. 



Temperature of the store room for all root 

 crops as well as for apples and potatoes should 

 range slightly above freezing, preferably from 32 - 

 36 Fahrenheit. Salsify and parsnips are not 

 injured at freezing temperature and for this reason 

 they are usually allowed to remain in their 

 allotted rows. 



Sweet potatoes, squashes, and pumpkins, on 

 the other hand, are easily injured by low tem- 

 peratures and should therefore be stored at or 

 slightly above 55 Fahrenheit. While a satis- 

 factory temperature for storing the root crops, 

 as well as potatoes and apples, may be had with 

 little difficulty in out of door storage pits or 

 trench, it must in the average basement or cellar 

 be provided for by means of an especially 

 constructed room. 



A Storage Room 



TO CONSTRUCT a special storage room 

 *- having the desired temperature choose that 

 part of the basement as far away from the fur- 

 nace as possible in order that it be the coolest 

 room available. Plan in such a way that the 

 finished room will have one or more outside win- 



dows to provide ventilation, which aids greatly 

 in controlling the temperature and removing 

 gases given off from the stored produce. Con- 

 struct a double 6 to 10 inch wall for separating 

 the storage room from the remaining cellar or 

 basement. Use hollow bricks if they are avail- 

 able, placing a coat of cement plastering on either 

 side. In case hollow brick and cement are un- 

 available use a double layer of boards separated 

 from each other by building paper and nailed to 

 either side of 4 or 6 inch studdings. Provide 

 double close-fitting doors to the storage room 

 entrance — that is, arrange one door opening in 

 and the other opening out. 



Peach basket placed in the mound for protection from wind will 

 be covered with manure later 



In order that the air of the room may be properly 

 moist avoid putting down a concrete floor. A 

 hard dirt floor holds moisture to better advantage 

 and is especially desirable where such crops as 

 celery or endive are to continue growth in the 

 storeroom after having been transplanted in loose 

 soil or sand. Moisture content of the storeroom 

 may be determined during winter from observing 

 the condition of the root crops. Shrivelled skins 

 suggest too little moisture present. An occas- 

 ional sprinkling of the sand or leaves covering the 

 produce will provide the needed moisture in the 

 storeroom. 



To insure sufficient ventilation arrange for 

 opening an outside window and as an aid to con- 

 trolling the temperature where produce is to be 

 stored in considerable quantities, provide a fresh 

 air intake under an opposite side wall if possible 

 in order to keep the air of the room renewed 

 occasionally. A large drain properly guarded 

 by wire of some sort at the entrance will answer, 

 instead, for ajsmall room. Ventilating flues should 

 range between eight and twelve inches square 

 for each 1,000 cubic feet of storeroom area. 



Condition of Produce 



/^HOOSE as nearly perfect specimens as 

 ^ possible for placing in storage. Quality 

 cannot be added to stored crops except as 

 maturity may continue or as the bleaching 

 process may go on, as with apples or with 

 celery. Handle all produce carefully as bruised 

 spots means broken down tissues which are "toe 

 holds" for decay which once started soon spreads 

 throughout any lot of produce especially where 

 the skins may be punctured. Slightly immature 

 crops keep best. 



