Pictorial Lessons in Pruning t. sheward 



TREES are pruned to increase the size 

 and appearance of fruit and flowers by- 

 removing the surplus branches. In pruning 

 apples, pears, plums, cherries, goose- 

 berries, etc., remove all cross branches that 

 shut out the sun and air, and all dead wood. 



THE ORCHARD TREE 



Fig. I shows an apple tree, one half of which 

 has been pruned, the other half unpruned. The 

 first operation in pruning this is to remove 

 any water sprouts (W) that start on the main 

 branches. Cut close to the branches with a 

 pruning knife; or if too large, use a saw (Fig. 32.) 



\\ hen using a saw go over the edges of the 

 cut with a sharp knife (Fig. 2) in order to make 

 a clean cut (Fig. 1, C) that will heal over readily. 

 Fig. 1, A shows the wrong way to cut away a 

 branch, B the result. Cut close to the branch 

 and smooth over with a knife and the cut will 

 heal over (Fig. 1, C). 



The method of removing a large branch is at 

 D, making a cut underneath before sawing 

 through from above. Y shows how water 

 sprouts will start to grow the following year if 

 not cut close to the branch. 



FRUIT OR LEAF SPUR? 



Cut out all cross branches (X) that shut out 

 the sun and air and are growing inwardly. 

 Remove any fruit spurs that are too far from 

 the light and sun. Fig. 1, V on the branch / 

 shows a bunch of apples too far from the light 

 to ripen properly, and are best removed. Prune 

 as at H and K. Fruit spurs are shown at S. 

 In Fig. 21, F S shows a fruit spur, L a leaf spur. 



Fig. 22 is the same branch the following summer. 

 After removing all the cross branches, shorten 

 back all the new wood to about one third its 

 length, keeping in mind the shape of the tree and 

 always cutting to an outside bud, thus causing 

 the branches to grow outwards. Fig. I E shows 

 the method of doing this. 



THE "CLEAN" CUT 



A sharp knife (Fig: 30) is the best pruning tool 

 because it does not injure the bark and leaves 

 a clean cut, but in pruning tall trees it is, not 

 possible to use a knife, so long handled tree 

 pruners (Fig. 11) are used. If the blade is filed 

 to a very sharp edge a clean cut can be made. 



Fig. 3, A shows a shoot cut too far from the 

 bud. In Fig. 4 the top bud has grown into a 

 branch the following year. A is the same stub, 

 now withered and dead but not covered over. 

 If the cut had been made as shown at Fig. 5 

 the bark would have covered the cut (B in Fig. 6). 

 The wrong way to cut is seen at Figs. 7 and 8, 

 Fig. 9 is the right way. 



Pears are pruned much the same way. Fig. 10 

 shows a spur of a pear that has grown too long, 

 and the method of cutting back. Remove all 

 dead wood and cross branches. Fig. 28 shows 

 a small branch with leaf and fruit spurs, and 

 Fig. 29 the same branch the following summer. 



SMALL FRUITS AND BERRIES 



In pruning gooseberries and currants remove 

 the old and worn-out wood, train in new branches 

 to replace those cut away and spur back the 

 new wood (Fig. 20) . Figs. 18 and 19 show where 

 the fruit forms on the wood of a gooseberry 



bush. Fig. 17, A, B, C shows the method of 

 pruning; the other half unpruned. Cut away 

 the small branches (X) and shorten back the 

 new wood to the dotted line. 



Since blackberries, raspberries, etc., fruit 

 on the new wood, prune by cutting away the 

 old wood and train in the new. Fig. 25 shows 

 a good way to grow blackberries. A is the wood 

 that will not bear fruit. Therefore cut it away 

 and train in the young wood (E). Cut the top 

 to make laterals form (A). Fig. 26 shows a 

 piece of wood with fruit buds and Fig. 2/ the 

 same the following summer bearing fruit. 



HOW ABOUT ROSES? 



Roses unpruned H. P., are seen in Fig. 14 and 

 in Fig. 15 the same pruned. 'Fig. 23 shows a 

 Climbing Rose, B a strong young shoot breaking 

 from the bottom of the plant and A an old shoot. 

 In training these over arches, etc., the young 

 wood is to be preferred, but if there is not enough 

 to cover the space use old wood, pruning as 

 shown at C, Fig. 23. Fig. 24 shows how C will 

 flower the following year. Fig. 31 is C enlarged. 

 As a rule Roses are best pruned in spring but old 

 wood of climbers may be taken out now. 



ROOT PRUNING 



Root pruning is practical when trees grow very 

 strong and vigorous but do not bear fruit. Re- 

 move the soil from around the trunk of the tree 

 exposing the roots, cut through the strongest 

 with a wood chisel, making the cut from under- 

 neath. Then replace the soil. Fig. 12 shows 

 the method of cutting the roots and Fig. 13 how 

 small roots will start from the cut. 



Pruning is an occupation for the winter when growth is dormant. This diagram is a clear explanation of how the work can be done on different kinds of plants. The reader must study his own case 

 and apply the method that seems to fit it best. The first thing to be done is to answer for yourself the question, "What am I pruning for? " 



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