THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



March, 1919 



Bill I I lllllllllllllllllli ' 



"VICTORY TREES" 



Plant Memorial Trees 

 For Soldiers and Sailors 



A Monument for All and by All 



Whether you gave a boy or not, plant a tree as a 

 living memorial to the victory over Hun and Hell. 

 We are living in the greatest age of the world's 

 history. Those that follow us should have en- 

 during reminders of the awful price paid by the 

 present generation for World Peace. 



It is fitting that the heroism of living soldiers and 

 sailors as well as that of their comrades who made 

 the supreme sacrifice, should be recalled in future 

 days. And what more appropriate than a growing 

 tree to signify the increasing blessings of Victory? 



A memorial tree, par excellence, for parks and 

 private grounds is the 



Douglas Fir 



An Evergreen — A Living Memorial 



The Douglas Fir is a long-lived tree which will 

 endure through many generations. Hardy, 

 healthy, stately and symmetrical in growth, it 

 thrives in nearly all soils and conditions. 



Beech, Elm, Maple, Linden or Oak would be pre- 

 ferable as memorial trees for avenues and shade. 

 All are native American trees, healthy, strong 

 and long-lived. 



ROSED ALE offers a grand lot of these and other 

 Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Vines, including both large 

 and small sizes. In accordance with Our Motto, 

 we quote: 



"Prices as Low as 



Consistent with Highest Quality" 



Send for the 1919 Rosedale Catalogue. 



Rosedale Nurseries 



S. G. HARRIS. Proprietor 



Box A TARRYTOWN, N. Y. 



DOUGLAS FIR 



CONCQLOR FIR 



DOB I ■ IBIIIlHim 



ii'fEii unpin.: 1 : sjii 



"FAIRFAX SEED" 



Get my free book which is a practical guide to 

 every one who wants to have a successful garden. 

 It gives real, practical information how to grow 

 bumper crops of the choicest vegetables from our 

 seeds which are fresh, clean and have been tested. 

 We do not carry seeds over from season to season. 



$50.00 IN GOLD 

 will be given in prizes for the finest specimen of 

 vegetables grown from Fairfax proven, tested 

 seeds. 



Special complete assortment for a 50 foot garden contain- 

 ing 20 full size packets vegetable seeds for $1.50. 

 We will mail you free upon request this practical Guide to 

 successful gardening. 



W. R. GRAY, Box 6. Oakton, Va. 



JONES' 



Nut Trees 



MY HARDY PENNSYLVANIA GROWN TREES are the 

 best for eastern or northern planting. Pecans, English 

 and Black Walnuts, Shagbarks, etc. All trees budded or grafted 

 —no seedlings. Attractive catalogue free. 



J. F. JONES— The Nut Specialist, Box G, Lancaster, Pa. 



That the Future May Be Filled With Flowers 



tr>. 



This is the main planting month 

 for all sorts of annuals that can be 

 started in flats or a hotbed and 

 later planted outside. Sow the 

 seed fairly thickly in drills an inch 

 apart; transplant the first time 

 (this is the "pricking out" process) so the seed- 

 lings will stand two inches apart each way as 

 soon as they can be handled; at the second shift, 

 leave them four inches apart, or put each in a 

 two-inch pot. By that time they should have 

 been sufficiently hardened to be set in the open 

 ground as soon as they need more root space. 

 A number of perennials will bloom the first sea- 

 son if handled the same way. Some of the 

 hardier can be planted outdoors by the end of 

 the month. 



Don't delay Sweet Pea sowing any longer. A 

 long cool spring season stimulates a vigorous, 

 deep root growth and insures healthy, productive 

 plants during the dryer summer weather. Re- 

 member, the earlier you plant the deeper the 

 trenches should be, though the seed should 

 rarely be covered more than three or four inches 

 deep; work the rest of the soil in around them 

 as the young plants grow. 



Clumps of perennials that have been, undis- 

 turbed for three years or more should be lifted, 

 divided and replanted before they start into 

 growth. This is the time to root out from the 

 hardy borders all the quack grass and other in- 

 sistent weeds. 



Of course, if you have no established plants 

 to divide, and don't want to wait for perennials 

 from seed, there are always strong, healthy 

 plants to be bought from seedsmen and nursery 

 men — and right now is the time to get them into 

 the ground, too. 



All tap-rooted plants are harder to transplant 

 than sorts with branching fibrous roots. Con- 

 sequently, in the vegetable garden don't attempt 

 to move parsnips, long, tapering carrots, etc., un- 

 less it is absolutely necessary and then move only 

 the smallest of them. Similarly persimmons 

 among the fruits, and Magnolias and Cedars of 

 the ornamental trees, often feel the shock of mov- 

 ing because it damages their central root system. 

 In all planting and transplanting, firm the soil 

 thoroughly around the roots of each plant. 

 Likewise in seed sowing, see that the soil is 

 brought closely in contact with the seed so that 

 it will keep them moist. 



Unless you know you have an unusually rich 

 soil, give generous feeding. Spread manure be- 

 fore plowing or spading, work in a general 

 fertilizer, bone meal, or wood ashes, when fitting 

 the ground, and apply nitrate of soda or liquid 

 manure as the plants begin to grow. 



In digging soil for a seed bed thrust the spade 

 or spading fork full depth almost vertically into 

 the soil, lift the lump, invert it, and, unless it is 

 broken by the fall, break it up by striking it 

 with the flat of the spade or thrusting the latter 

 through it. In other words see that it is broken 

 up. Then rake the soil smooth until the teeth 

 pass easily back and forth and the surface is free 

 of lumps, stones, litter, etc. Sow the seed with 

 little delay, before the soil packs or dries out. 



Keep garden tools free from rust by (i) wiping 

 them clean after use, and (2) keeping all unpainted 

 metal surfaces smeared with some kind of heavy 

 oil or grease while the tool is not in use. 



Cloth plant protectors, commonly made by 

 replacing the bottom of a shallow box like a flat 

 with muslin, are useful for shielding melons, 

 cabbages, and other plants from insect pests; 

 but handle them with care or the sheltered plants 

 may become weak and spindly, just as if kept too 

 long in a dimly lighted, excessively warm room. 



Ailnertisers will appreciate pour ^znlionina The Harden ilanazine in writing — and we will, too 



