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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



April, 1919 



Resplendent 

 Evergreens 



Their Beauty 

 Never Fails 



/A" early April or in 

 August, in Novem- 

 ber or in January, Ever- Austrian Pine 

 greens grace the home grounds One of the finest species 

 with their beautv and their of E^rgreens att in _ 



I j l r i tt ing a height of 2S feet, 



pleasing depths Ot color. How Does wonderfully as an 



welcome thev are in 'barren individual specimen. 

 winter months, when with Admired for its con- 



i • . , stant and intense color. 



their sturdy greenery they P i ants 2 lo 3 feet ta u, 



delight the hungry eye. Ever- fr each; 3 to 4 feet, $$ 



greens are so constant? eacn - 



Evergreens are Hardy- H /nVpKa R m id do Bt n wtd S 

 They Thrive Everywhere A shipment has just 



" j been received by us or 



Evergreens are adaptable; the finest plants we 

 vou can succeed with them have , ever , seen - Re " 



. 1 *-i j* - member that the new 



under average soil conditions, P i ant Embargo Act will 

 in a climate either temperate prevent their importa- 

 or cold. We have varieties £ ion afte . r next June 



. i. „u _ j r Secure these splendid 



to meet all your needs, from specimens whi , p e you 

 tall trees for your wind break have the chance. Rho- 

 to Others valued chiefly for dodendron (Named Va- 



their beauty and massing i$&S2£ s EK 



effect. for ten. Pyramid Box- 



wood, 3-foot specimens, 

 $4.25 each; $40 for ten. 

 Give your trees a fair chance to get started before the grow- 

 ing season sets in by planting early. Order at once — ask for 

 our catalogue. Ten pages of it are crowded with important, 

 authoritative facts about Evergreens. Ask also for our 

 special pamphlet on Evergreens, which will be mailed free to 

 readers of this magazine. 



AMERICAN NURSERY CO., Inc. - 



FLUSHING, L. I. NEW YORK 



Do Not Delay Planting 



GARDEN "MOVIES" 



Garden Clubs, Civic Associations, Schools, Churches: — write 

 for details concerning our free educational moving pictures on 

 "How to Plant." 



Nurserymen's National Service Bureau 



F. F. Rockwell. Manager 



220 West 42nd Street New York City 



Fountain in Ancient Ware 



For Conservatory and Sun Room, with Tile inlay, giving the 

 Art stone that little touch of color and warmth and bringing 

 out most beautiful and harmonious effects. 



Above Fountain has a channel 4" wide x 6" deep to plant 

 flowers in and centre pan has power unit attached so all you 

 need is an electric connection, no water pipes are required as 

 pump keeps circulating water and Fountain is illuminated 

 while runiiini;. 



Our catalogue will give you many Muggeationa 



THE FISCHER & JIROUCH CO. 

 4825 Superior Ave. Cleveland, Ohio 



^ac^ 



s??* 



EXPERIENCES AMONG 

 THE FLOWERS 



Adding Bloom to the Peony Bed. — A border 

 of Pansies makes an excellent arrangement to 

 continue the flowering season. Pansies seem to 

 thrive in a soil that suits Peonies and are grateful 

 for the shade the latter afford them. Tiger 

 Lilies likewise do well among Peonies and prolong 

 the color value of a Peony bed considerably be- 

 yond the few weeks that the Peonies flower. 

 When the Tiger Lilies become too thick, as they 

 will, they can easily be thinned out. — C. L. 

 Meller, No. Dakota. 



The Glorious Eschscholtzia.— ;A great many 

 people fail with the Eschscholtzia or California 

 Poppy. They find the seed hard to start and the 

 seedlings difficult to transplant so they often dis- 

 card this remarkably beautiful flower, whereas 

 they might succeed by following the plan that 

 proved so successful with me last summer. Like 

 many others I had failed to get reasonably good 

 stands of plants and also to make grow those I 

 transplanted. Fortunately some one told me 

 that the seed rapidly loses vitality when stored 

 but if allowed to fall as it ripens it is sure to pro- 

 duce good plants for the following year. I acted 

 upon this and sowed seed in the spring of 1917 

 with the result that out of a packet I had perhaps 

 a dozen or a score of plants. These grew rather 

 inconspicuously in a garden bed about eight by 

 twenty feet. Few of the flowers were picked that 

 year, and none of the seed was saved. This was 

 all allowed to fall as it ripened. The result was 

 that during 1918 there was a splendid stand of 

 plants and every day for nearly two months there 

 were literally tens of thousands of blossoms which 

 made a golden carpet over this area. — M. K. 



Crinums in the Open. — In the December 

 Garden Magazine, a neighbor inquires about 

 growing Crinums in the open ground. I have 

 been successful in getting Crinum Powellii to 

 live and bloom outdoors in our climate, which is 

 certainly more trying than that of Kentucky. 

 They should be planted, in a rather sheltered 

 location, from 18 to 24 inches deep and about 

 2 feet apart — put about an inch of sand under 

 each bulb and enough on top to just cover them. 

 They should be planted in the spring and will 

 probably not show above ground for at least 

 12 months. It may be at least two years from 

 time of planting until they will bloom. Protect 

 in winter with about 8 inches of leaves on which 

 lay a few boards to shed the rain. I would 

 strongly recommend to your correspondent a 

 flower known as Lycoris squamigeraor Amaryllis 

 Hallii. These bulbs may be planted either in the 

 fall or the spring. They should be set about 

 6 inches deep and about 12 inches apart, and one 

 should not be discouraged if they do not all bloom 

 the first season. In winter give them the same 

 protection that you would to Narcissus or Hya- 

 cinths. They are perfectly hardy and can be left 

 in the ground indefinitely. — N. L. Griswold, 

 Illinois. 



Larkspurs and Shade. — In the January issue 

 Miss Gertrude H. Smith, New Jersey, writes of 

 this and I was interested because I had much 

 the same experience several years ago. I worked 

 from the theory that possibly one of two troubles, 

 or both, might be at the root of the matter, in this 

 case the Delphinium or Larkspur roots, i. e. that 

 the ground might have become sour, from too 

 much moisture and shade; or that grubs or wire 

 worms might be at the deep roots or just below 



the ground. I knew that air-slaked lime or a 

 solution of lime-water would both sweeten the 

 soil and kill or cause to come to the ground, any 

 grubs, worms, etc. Therefore, I took a portion 

 of an old handle of wood, 2-2 J inches in diameter 

 and pointed bluntly at one end, and made holes 

 around four sides of the Delphinium roots, pos- 

 sibly a foot deep or less, and filled them up with 

 a good solution of lime-water, until the soil seem- 

 ingly would absorb no more. I also spraye'd the 

 stalks and leaves and the plants revived, grew, 

 and had to be staked to support the blossom 

 stalks; which before had become yellow, withered, 

 and the stalks seemingly bent over from weak- 

 ness. In the fall and early spring I put fine 

 coal ashes around and over clumps of my Del- 

 phinium, and later in the growing season (when 

 I have them) soot and wood ashes, and no one 

 could have finer Delphiniums than I've had, of 

 many shades, and 5, 6, 7, and even nearly 8 feet 

 tall, and large and many stalks to a clump. Plant 

 a clump of the cerulean and lighter shades near the 

 bushes of Baltimore Belle, and other white or 

 Thousand Beauty Roses, where they can come up 

 through and bloom at same time. This happened 

 without planning and now I try to "keep it up." 

 The lime "cure" will benefit Peonies and Roses if 

 spread on dry (air-slaked lime) until ground is 

 white and then stirred into soil, so it can be 

 washed down into roots. Don't use the lime 

 around Lilies, especially The Gold Banded Lily 

 or auratum; if you do the Lily will fail to appear 

 or be a sickly guest. — C. W. L., Connecticut. 



A "Bonnie Briar Bush." — Occasionally a pleas- 

 ant surprise rewards' the amateur who loves to 

 make experiments purely from a desire to see 

 what is going to happen. So it was when a 

 Scotch Briar Rose opened for me indoors last 

 April. You wouldn't have believed it, would 

 you? Perhaps it might never happen again, 

 but I think it worth while to repeat the experi- 

 ment this spring, and I shall also test the Persian 

 Yellow — which shows a certain similarity of 

 type— in the same way. These old-fashioned, 

 creamy-white, Scotch Roses belong to the sort 

 classified as Rosa spinosissima. A neighbor of 

 "grandmother's day" had a hedge along which 

 bushes of them grew in a tangled mass. The 

 hedge has long since been destroyed, but the 

 persistent Roses have lived on in the grass, strug- 

 gling against the scythe and lawnmower for 

 existence year after year. Some roots pulled up 

 for old association's sake and transplanted in my 

 garden made a vigorous growth, but the bush 

 had never bloomed. Various offsets grew up 

 around it, and one encroaching into a flower-bed 

 last spring must be moved or destroyed. So, 

 as early as the ground permitted, I took it up, 

 set it in a pot of rich soil and carried it into a cool 

 room of the house. It happened to be a sym- 

 metrical little bush and in an incredibly short 

 time it was covered with leaves and shoots of a 

 refreshing dark green. Simultaneously with the 

 expanding of the leaves, a tiny, top-most terminal 

 had begun to develop, and very rapidly opened 

 into a perfect-cupped, delightfully odorous Rose. 

 The big bush in the garden which began to bloom 

 many weeks later for the first time, showed 

 flowers not half as dainty. They expanded more 

 widely, showing a looser form, and were more 

 purely white; while the indoors was a rich cream 

 tinted with lemon, and daintily rounded. — C. F. 

 Brassey-Brierley, Maine. 



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